"One thing jumped out to me: why did you decide to go with the 13009097047 as opposed to the 13009097006 (~74 vs 68 exducer respectively)?"


Up untill last September, the smaller turbine 363/68 was considered by most as a too small, waste of time, stupid idea. I was flat out told by many diesel shops, tuners, turbo guys, some fte members, and the facebook club fanatics, that it wouldnt work at all. Some places tried to tell me that a 366/73 1.0 or a 369 with a .91 would better match my 160/0 injectors towing heavy. My eyes just rolled as I kept quiet. Only a small handfull(2-3) turbo specialists or 7.3 tuners said it should be a great match.
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Racinjasonwv helped me research the 363/68 for weeks, trying to find any info of it.
There was almost zero actual data on a 363/68 being run on a 7.3
Basically with the opinions and odds almost fully against the idea, I ran the turbo, replacing my 364.5/73 .91 that I was told I couldnt possibly be "under the turbo"
I loved it!
Jason followed (he has more self control then I), and had the same opinion as I, then srbf150. Somehow the 363/68 results were still not much believed or recognized.
Recenty Brokestroke ran it and loves it (.83).

Sous' 363/68 .91 results are fantastic!

Now the word is getting out, its amazing performance is proven!

So quick answer, the 363/68 went from stupid to stupendous very quickly! Back when Dan, myself or many of the other guys chose the large turbine, it was the only viable option, it still is a fantastic option. But the neglected 363/68 is a gamechanger for some of us. My how things change quickly!
I have now purchased 3, 363/68 .91 Running one on both my 7.3s (4r100 & zf6) with zero regrets and no plans on ever having to change again.

 

RacinJasonWV: Hutch mod is on the to do list. If you look at my previous threads you'll find the other videos in the thread about the knock. In video #4 it gets audible after 8ish seconds if you have your volume cranked up.

I wasn't able to get much done today (Saturday) as I had to deal with the fallout of a break in to the truck. Classic punch the door lock and drill out the ignition lock cylinder. A decent two way alarm and jimmi jammers have been added to the to do list.

I was able to get some of the lines removed. Here's a tip if you find the high pressure oil fitting in to the head seized and starting to round when you put an end wrench on it:



Get some snips and cut the line right above the end...


Then you can get your 12 pt deep well socket on there n turn it loose.

 

Good call. I'm a big proponent of showing anger to stubborn machinery to show it who's boss. Seriously though, if hacking the HPOP hose is not at option, flare wrenches work well too.

 

The would be thieves obviously didn’t know the state of the under hood condition… Maybe it’s a good thing your upgrades are underway. No way that thing is starting right now. 😏

If they were cranking the engine, be mindful of the rags that were stuffed in the plenums. Just wanted to share the thought while it was fresh in my mind.

On the fuel feed (saw the new thread), I have to admit that unless there was an issue I would just leave them stock. But that’s just my opinion.

I’m enjoying following along with your build.

 

Corroseal is a primer used on rusted surfaces; converts the rust layer to black iron oxide and uses it to create primer. I just checked and unfortunately it's not rated for high temperatures, so that won't work. Normally I'd just use a wirewheel but I'm not pulling the engine and I'm not keen on creating a bunch of metal dust in the engine bay. Any suggestions?

FordTruckNoob: I really need to add flare wrenches to my collection, but the other HPOP line came off rather easy, thus further delaying my purchase of some flare wrenches.

Managed to get a lot done today:



Fuel Bowl Removed.



Was disconnecting the alternator and managed to break this copper piece while moving the rubber cover off (seems like it was work hardened). Will have to investigate how to repair this. Hopefully it's a simply soldering job.



HPOP removed. Right angle impact made removing the front bolt super easy. I think it's original as it has a bearing (15 degree) under the rear cover instead of a bushing (17 degree). Hopefully it keeps trucking along.



Oh no there's been a murder!



At this point I thought I'd cleaned up the majority of the blood oil and was looking at the bottom of the valley...




...oh no



Starting to wonder if I'll ever find the bottom.



Ah there it is!



At this point was tired and too lazy to disconnect alternator bracket to get at this fuel line, so *snip*.


Deep well and ratchet makes quick work of it.

Tomorrow will try and take off the passenger valve cover and check injectors, finish removing the wiring harness for repair, and perhaps clean the valley a bit. Still need to take a saw to the down pipe so I can pull it, and then the up pipes, out.

 

Wire brush is typically less than ideal surface prep. It spreads oil contamination and leaves a smooth surface that paint doesn’t stick to as well. I recommend continuing your scraping and vacuum if you have a ‘dirty’ shop vac. Then use diesel and a stiff brush/tooth brush to get the last of the grime. A final rinse down or 2 with solvent/brake cleaner and maybe wiping with clean rags should be adequate to remove contamination that will hinder coating performance.

Those ‘rust converters’ are a gimmick. You’ll want a surface tolerant primer like ‘self etching’ primer or rustoleum rusty metal primer’. Top coat with rustoleum 2x coverage enamel spray paint. These products are adequate for the temps the engine block, etc will see.

I recommend the ‘$0.52 mod’ while the valve covers are off. The VC’s can be cleaned and scuffed up with 220 grit sandpaper and painted your favorite color(s) of 2x paint.

Keep up the good work!!!

 

I bought a set of crow foot wrenches after an FTE'r (AllAboutMPG) showed up with a set when he helped me with a roadside repair. Without those, the job would have been a lot more difficult.

I don't use them often, but they come in very handy with parts like the steering gear lines, fuel lines, etc...

I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight and they have paid for theirselves in frustration ,any times over and like FordTruckNoob mentioned, keeping anger away. Usually, anger and agression arising when working on the truck only creates more work or cost due to breaking something.

I have walked away from a task on the truck many times and when I returned the part I was struggling with went the way I wanted in seconds.

Great thread and many of us are enjoying following along.

 

Today turned out to be more research oriented vs working on the truck day.

CSD says they are waiting on downpipes before they can ship out their kits. This has me wondering if an Irate downpipe would work on a turbo that's been mounted to a CSD pedestal?

Elite Race Fab doesn't have a 13009097006 in stock, so I'm going to roll the dice and buy one from an Amazon seller (600 shipped).

I think I've found a local source for some L99 plenums, passenger intercooler pipe, and spyder... could potentially save a decent chunk of change using those parts instead of aftermarket/kit parts.

 

I doubt it. The CSD up pipes and pedestal are one complete piece.

EDIT: Oops, I misread that as up pipes. I imagine the downpipes should be interchangeable. Need more coffee.

 

You won’t end up needing the spider because it is part of the T4 kit, just a heads up.

Not sure on the downpipe. With the small clearances in that area I don’t think I would try a mismatch of downpipe and pedestal. Eswift would have a better feel though since he had used both kits. Alternatively you could use an Irate kit with a CSD hot pipe. Or just wait it out.

 

The Irate dp should fit just fine with a csd kit. Install pedatal/up pipes then slide the Irate bottom section up in, then after turbo is in, stick the Irate elbow that connects the lower dp section to turbo in.
Irates dp is nicer anyways, it is a better fit, has more adjustment being a 2 piece unit.
I had zero "clearencing" to do on my Irate dp, the csd I wrapped and installed, then removed and beat a few spots in with a hammer so it didnt rub/vibrate.
I had no issues clearing the trans cross member using Irates, the csd doesnt line up well, so my exhaust is smashed flat on one side so it doesnt hit the crossmember. I can easily pop the passenger vc off with Irates dp in place, If I want more room, 2 clamps off and remove the elbow to turbo and have tons of space. The csd dp HAS to be loosened from turbo to remove install vc, even then it is very much in the way, so much that I flattened the lip of the vc by the dp and it is still in the way, so much in fact that last time I fought to get it in, I bumped the #5 injctor plug off fighting to install the vc, so after firing up the truck, I had to fight the stupid thing all over again.....

Sorry Carson, Irate wins in a few areas....

 

Hmmm, I had no trouble with clearance on my CSD downpipe between the VC and cab. I wonder if that is because I had pulled the engine out previously and put it back down further forward in the frame. The clearance between the back of my starter and the crossmember is measured in millimeters.

@PriusLover , my apologies for the bad info. I misread your question as asking about up pipes, not the downpipe.


I can see that being the case. I had to "persuade" my CSD downpipe to line up.

 

If I had more available time, I would consider selling my csd kit and having AA make a kit for me. That way I could use a perfectly fitting oem style dp and exhaust

 

I have a set of bellows here, a few used up-pipes in good shape (except the sealing area I don’t need)..... There have been many times i considered building my own T4 kit.......

You know, in my spare time.

 

You’d have some if you just quit your addiction to paint.