E99: Yet Another S300 SX-E Thread
Could it fit better, absolutely!
Frankly, I had more trouble with the MBRP 4" down pipe than I ever did with the CSD 3.5" down pipe. I have a good 1/2" or more of clearance between the down pipe and the rolled edge of the valve cover. I have a good inch of clearance between the firewall pinch weld and the down pipe.
It could have lined up with the MBRP exhaust going to the rear of the vehicle, but I used a piece of commercial grade flex pipe to make the union. It works well and I have no contact points, no rubbing, no issues at all during heavy towing or cruising.
It has been said before and I have been in this conversation that the best kit (prior to AA coming on the scene with his T4 kit) would be CSD up-pipes, pedestal and plumbing. Irate downpipe and Y-pipe and pick your poison for the IC tubes. I have zero issues with any of my CSD parts, but they could fit a little better sure.
Even drop in turbos have problems like SJBJ recently fitting the intake to his turbo. There was a guy here about 6 months ago with a similar issue. It happens and that is part of the nature of the beast when going with aftermarket parts. Especially for those of us that don't have the knowledge, skills or tools to build our own. I would love to build my own, but a home in the country and other projects keep me plenty busy. So, I pay for others to devote their time, knowledge, skills and tools and I have the product sent to me in a box.
At least the kits are made in USA and answer the phone when you call these places!

Although, if/when I need to remove the passenger side valve cover (140/30 or 160/0 injectors) I don't suspect the down pipe will cause much of an issue, for two reasons.
1. I can remove the clamp between the turbine outlet and down pipe.
2. I can loosen or remove the clamp at the bottom where the down pipe is being held to the MBRP 4" exhaust.
This will give me ample room, but if not, I can remove the down pipe completely if I feel the need. I think a bungee cord holding the down pipe inlet toward the passenger side hood strut will do a great job of providing clearance. When I was in there a few weeks ago installing the 363 SXE, I could move the down pipe completely out of the way to the passenger side even while the bottom clamp was still secure and in place.
I don't like to hear of people having trouble with something I installed with good experiences and results that I recommend, but my recommendations should be taken as just that, recommendations on my own personal experiences.
I would love to see an AA T4 kit in person, but I would also love to see the FinnishStroker and Brokestroke T4 setups in person too. I don't think the value of running a stock exhaust with the AA kit is there, in my opinion. On the flip side, I think having the ability to run an exhaust that was built as a factory replacement has a lot of value. But, as I mentioned earlier, that 4" MBRP down pipe was a PIA to get in and set right. Once it was set though, it was good for years.
If I could do it all over again I would likely go AA T4 (based on further examination), 363/68/.91 and 3" - 3.5" turbo back exhaust from a reputable source. But, if I could go back in time, there wouldn't be a lot of things I would do differently in my life, but there would be a couple...

The amazon retailer who was supposed to sell me the 363 canceled my order, saying they don't have one in stock. I remembered that Irate bundles the S300Xs with their kits so asked a friend to talk with them today since I was busy. Their pricing is about the same as Elite Race Fab, and they could have a 363 here in a matter of days that I could pick up.
So now this has me considering Irate's kit. I'd need CSD's hot CAC pipe, would use the L99 spider+cold CAC pipe+plenums, with the rest coming from Irate.
I've had initially declined to go with Irate's kit due a couple reasons:
- The valley freeze plug drain. I worry that if there are any leaks in the valley, or if I should need to wash it out, the oil drain could potentially be a source of ingress? In pictures I see that the fitting that sits in there has two o-rings so perhaps it'd be okay. If you own an Irate kit I'd love to hear your thoughts!
- The other concern is the oil feed line facing the firewall/going over the back of the turbo. In one case, an OBS owner suffered an engine fire from this line on their Irate kit rubbing through via contact with the firewall: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19824388
I'm assuming this isn't as much of a problem with the SDs as there's a little more room to work with? Again if you own an Irate kit I'd like your input. Perhaps there is a way I could run the line around the front of the turbo like CSD has it?
I would buy the y pipe, your e99 spyder would sell fast for 100-125 dollars because obs giys want them for intercooler installs.
The valley fitting is no big deal, how do you think obs mechanical fuel pumps work, yup through that same hole..
The Irate oil feed line is, in my opinion, by far a better fit then csd. It isnt close to rubbing, the closest to anything it gets is 5/8" and that is directly on top of the turbo. My pics dont accurately show it, but it has tons of room.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
That E99 spider is now worth $400. Yes, people are CRAZY.
Irate’s y-pipe and CAC pipes are beautiful.
Irate's Y and CAC are indeed nice, but it'll save me a lot of money to just use L99 passenger CAC and y/spider.
Put in the order with Irate a little bit ago. Turbo, housing, and kit parts should be ready for pickup by mid next week! Now just need to order boots and CSD driver side CAC.
No lies detected. Great movie btw
The irate hot pipe does not fit all that good with an ais, it is super close to the power steering cap <1/16" and still rubbing the intake tube. It could be dented a bit to clearence it, but it seems like a future rub issue. Maybe it would fit with a remote ps pump reservoit like a saginaw kit..., That is why I have hung onto the irate pipe.
The csd hot pipe below is a much better fit

















