Mounted separately would look cleaner to someone.

 

Thank you for a plausible explanation to save my pride.

 

FTN

Cleanest would be remote mount. Run that fancy line to a good location for a Tee or Y the line on the way. Or mount the solenoids near the BOV for the quickest response of the BOV.

Just picking on you. That line and the way it’s routed looks slick.

 

Because....New. Welder!!!

 

No welding was involved thankfully.

 

@FordTruckNoob You think a lower than stock TC stall is a good idea when running a VGT?

 

I’d say it depends on how your truck is tuned and your intended usage. All the VGT does is broaden the range of engine speeds where you have useable boost i.e. broader power band. If anything, I think equipping a truck with a VGT makes it less sensitive to TC stall speed.

I have found that the BTS under the control of a DP Tuner drives beautifully for the way I use the truck. I believe the TC supplied by BTS stalls at more or less the same RPM as factory.

 

Actually, my original install required no additional solenoid valve nor signal wires. I had both controllers sending signals to the one valve. Diodes were used to prevent backfeeding one controller to the other. That failed miserably and I fried one solenoid valve.

 

After a week of driving that covereed about 600 miles including a trip up to Brainerd and back, I think I have the jamming Turbonator problem licked.

Backstory:
I had swapped in the older REA (REA #1) about two weeks ago after the newer one DPS supplied started jamming in the closed position just like REA #1 had done previously. I had previously taken REA #1 apart and lubricated the gears. It worked fine for about a day and then started jamming in the closed position again. I was about a half hour from home so on a whim, I disconnected the electrical connector from the control electronics’ harness to the REA, then plugged it back in again. Full function returned to REA #1!! That lasted for about 2 miles then it started jamming again. Rinse and repeat electrical disconnect/reconnect until I got home. Once home, I cleaned the connector and the electrical interface of the REA with DeOxit then put conductive grease on the pins of the connector. This worked fine for about 6 days then it started jamming again.

Next, I swapped REA #2 back into the truck. While REA #2 had been out, I lubricated the internal gears AND added conductive grease to the contacts that connect the REA’s internal electronics to the motor that drives the gears. This is what I have been driving around with for a week without issue.

Hypothesis:
Electrical connections mounted on a 7.3 are subject to a lot of heat and vibration that makes them become unreliable. This was observed on my alternator connection also. Conductive grease solved the problem with the alternator and now it appears to have solved the REA jamming issue also.

Only time will tell if my hypothesis holds water. What do you guys think?

 

Will the conductive grease burn off? What is it rated up to temp wise? I figure you will get a longer life out of it but idk how long

 

Good question @Hvyhaulr . I do not know the answer to that. The grease on the alternator has been there since May 2021 without replenishment. It has continued to operate without issue.

 

that’s good news then! Obviously where the turbonator is at is hotter but if you can get 2 years and counting at the alt. If you can get a year out of it I’d say that’s a win. Less than that it sounds like a pain.

 

Indeed! I will be taking REA #1 apart again to put conductive grease on the motor contacts as well.

 

I think that is a great way to get in your exercise. No wonder you are fit and trim!

The variable vane appears to be doing it's job... adjusting your trim.

 

Oh you master of punnage you.

I am pleased to see that you now have time to read and respond to posts, as opposed to moderating them.