Do you know what size the threads are for the oil drain in the base plate?

 

Leonard, just to make sure future readers and followers of the FTN method of installing an SXE are in the loop, your image above has helicoil inserts in the pedestal plate because you used different sized bolts due to an inventory oversight. But, if the proper sized studs had been used, the studs should be just proud of the pedestal plate bottom surface, is that correct?

 

The oil drain is a #10 ORB so it should be 7/8"-14 UNC.
http://fittingsandadapters.com/saej5straigt.html

That is correct. The proper 3/8"-16 UNC studs should come pretty close to being flush because the plate is 1/2" thick and the short end of the stud is 1/2" long.

 

Found these on the DPS YouTube channel today when I was watching fail/win videos and laughing my *** off.

 

Well great. Now that I’ve watched the videos I want one too.

 

Up Pipe Assembly wrapped. I made me a little tool to more easily tighten those PITA stainless zip ties.

 

Nice!! Where did you get that wrap kit?

 

Like the tool idea. Those things normally leave a sharp edge that’s tricky to get rid of. Does it pull tight enough wrapped that direction? It seems it may pull tighter if turned the other way, but then wouldn’t be as neat.

 

Amazon. I think I need an intervention.

ARTR Titanium Lava Fiber Exhaust Header Wrap 2 Rolls (2" x 50' each roll) Kit with 20pcs 11.8 Inch Stainless Steel Locking Ties
Seems pretty tight. I just followed instructions really.

 

I really like that idea and it looks pretty slick. Gonna try to lock it into my pea brain for future reference.

Did you use both rolls? I did the uppipes and most of the downpipe with 1 cheap amazon roll I had leftover from another project (still a full roll but I’d stole some of the ties). FYI I bought a whole bag of those metal zip ties for a surprisingly reasonable price on amazon.

Looking good Leonard. Can’t wait to see how it runs!

 

Cheap wrapping is ok,just make sure it isnt fiberglass!
Fiberglass has lower temp rating..

I have Titanium Lava fiber cheap turbo blanket,holding up good so far..Installed a year ago,seen atleast 15K miles.

 

Oops. Looks like mine was fiberglass. But it was the same as the name brand I bought through Summit Racing which held up well on my previous uppipes. But man the fiberglass stinks when getting it in your hands!
SunplusTrade 2" x 50' Black Exhaust Heat Wrap Roll for Motorcycle Fiberglass Heat Shield Tape with Stainless Ties
And since I was already searching my Amazon orders here’s the metal ties. SunplusTrade 100pcs 11.8 Inches Stainless Steel Exhaust Wrap Multi-Purpose Locking Cable Metal Zip Ties

 

Not sure if this will help you any, but this is the procedure I used on my 4" down pipe about 8-10yrs ago. At the time I chose to use AC duct aluminum tape because It was available, and it seemed that it would hold up just fine. I used the tape over the Zip ties for 2 reasons. 1. Was to keep the ties from cutting the heck out of my hands while handling them, and 2. To keep the Ex-Wrap nice and snug and to keep the wrap from moving around on me, more so when your handling the up-pipes or down pipes to install them.
On this last installation that I currently did when I installed my sxe472, I used Design Engineering Tape which you can see here in this picture. Although the HD Aluminum duct tape that I'd used in the past held up just fine with no issues what so ever, I decided to go with this tape by Design Engineering and it's also rated to 2000*radiant heat level's, and this application, it should be just fine here as well.
As you can see in the picture, I used the DE tape on both my Up-pipes and my down pipe as well. From the picture here, you will also see where I used the DE tape on my 3.5" down pipe, and installed another zip tie over the DE tape just to make certain that the wrap was not going to move on me. One other reason that I've done it this way is that I just could not seem to get the wrap and zip ties tight enough, and it always seemed that while handling either the down pipe or the up-pipes I was constantly having to readjust the wrap in the middle. Or chasing a loose wrap back in one direction or the other, and at times even having to cut the tie's, go back and re-wrap them and re-installing the zip ties. Again, the tape solved these issues for me. I found that I could make several wraps, put some Tape on it to keep the wrap in place, and keep going forward with the wrapping process and just leave the tape in place as it would not hurt to do so.


On Edit: The Design Engineering specs on the DE Tape say that it's rated for 400* direct contact to heat and 2000* Radiant Heat. Just for some clarification on the DE tape. I used the DE tape on my up-pipes which we all know can easily reach in excess of 1200* and more if the truck is pushed harder. So again, just so everyone is clear on the DE cool tape ratings. Again, I've used HD aluminum ducting tape in this same application, and never had an issue.

 

Looks great. Seems like that you have a strong case of PMS!

 

Colorado350

I like the ov​​​​​​​​​​erlined 1023 in your signature..😀
I read about your trouble with them,i had some too..