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How do the Jet nuts work in presence of corrosion? I am always worried that the T4 flange nuts will seize to the stud since it has happened to me before on other motors.
Regarding the 3/8" vs M10 bolts, could I ask you to do the FTE community a big favor... Find the part number and supplier for the 3/8" studs and jet nuts for your parts list for future.
Wilco!
Originally Posted by brokestroke
How do the Jet nuts work in presence of corrosion? I am always worried that the T4 flange nuts will seize to the stud since it has happened to me before on other motors.
As bad or worse than regular nuts. I usually use anti-sieze where I expect corrosion.
As bad or worse than regular nuts. I usually use anti-sieze where I expect corrosion.
I wouldn’t think anti-seize would be effective on turbo flange for very long.
Fighting with those bolts in the future would SUCK!!!
I don’t *think* any of my bolts have loosened up. They were good for each engine swap so far. This engine has been in for +5yrs now? I may find out soon. Big injectors may dictate some mods to the old S366 (.91 housing?)
I'm not familiar with the hardware that comes with the CSD or Irate kits. But I was meaning to ask if you guys were using any type of loctite (blue) on all of your install bolts to help from loosening? Or are you guys typically using anti sieze on your hardware?
I'm not familiar with the hardware that comes with the CSD or Irate kits. But I was meaning to ask if you guys were using any type of loctite (blue) on all of your install bolts to help from loosening? Or are you guys typically using anti sieze on your hardware?
On the flange nuts, center section bolts, and around the seat where the center section meets the turbine I use 2000* copper anti-seize. Locktite on the studs that thread into the T4 flange. Have had way too many bad experiences with seized bolts and center sections on turbos not to use anti-sieze.
I wouldn’t think anti-seize would be effective on turbo flange for very long.
Fighting with those bolts in the future would SUCK!!!
I don’t *think* any of my bolts have loosened up. They were good for each engine swap so far. This engine has been in for +5yrs now? I may find out soon. Big injectors may dictate some mods to the old S366 (.91 housing?)
You're probably right but at least it's better than nothing. I also worry about thread galling with these deformed thread locknuts when tightening so the anti-sieze is insurance against that too.
Originally Posted by sjbj
I'm not familiar with the hardware that comes with the CSD or Irate kits. But I was meaning to ask if you guys were using any type of loctite (blue) on all of your install bolts to help from loosening? Or are you guys typically using anti sieze on your hardware?
Generally speaking, I do not use threadlocker on any engine fasteners unless assembly instructions call for it specifically or it has a history of loosening even after tightening to correct torque.
Okay, the parts list in the first post has been updated. I found a stud that will fit into the 3/8"-16 UNC holes in the Pedestal Plate and allow you to use 3/8"-24 UNF Jetnuts on top. These are the same nuts used on the T4 flange so now you need 8 of them not 4.
Leonard, If I can share an observation I made with you when I installed my turbo. When I installed my turbo I removed the Compressor Housing. This gave me a bit more room to install the turbo, as well as much better access to the up-pipe flange bolts which can be a bear to reach. The only difference between your 363 and my 472 is of course the physical size, but also my turbo housing has a V band clamp on the housing which in turn makes removal and install very simple. I've studied your turbo housing a bit more and it could be difficult, not impossible but for sure difficult to reach the bolts on the Turbo compressor housing in order to reinstall it after the exhaust housing and core have been installed.
I've never messed with your type of Turbo housing mounting method, so to be honest I don't know if this would help, or hinder your install. I think most guys just install the entire turbo as a unit, but again for me it gave me the access I needed to get to the up-pipe and base flange bolts.
Thanks Carlos. That is helpful information. I imagine the v-band system makes it much easier to join the CHRA to the turbine scroll than the half-moon clamps mine uses though. The fun part will be getting the clamp bolt started in its hole after inserting the supercore into the turbine scroll and then holding that and the clamp plate in place. If I decide to do an install video, I may have to dub over the swearing with more elevator muzak.
Thanks Carlos. That is helpful information. I imagine the v-band system makes it much easier to join the CHRA to the turbine scroll than the half-moon clamps mine uses though. The fun part will be getting the clamp bolt started in its hole after inserting the supercore into the turbine scroll and then holding that and the clamp plate in place. If I decide to do an install video, I may have to dub over the swearing with more elevator muzak.
LOL.. Haa haa haa. Correct I suspected as much. Well I am watching and waiting to see how this plays out for yah. Should be fun when you finish up.
I installed my 364.5 as a single unit as seen in the video. Ridedan2 installed his 363 in two separate pieces. Getting to the T4 flange bolts was easy on 3 of them, but the top driver side required some swearing. Nothing like the OEM turbo swearing though.
Once the turbo was mounted, getting to the center housing clamp bolts was very easy. Due to the space between the housings and the height above the base, I had zero issues.
That said, if I ever need to re-install the turbo, I will try the two piece method like Ridedan2. Just to satisfy curiosity. I have no idea how or not the VGT/VNT changes any of this.