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Its not bad, but one gun of primer was not quite enough to get full coverage. The reason this primer is good under the Urethane is the hardener makes it hold up to the solvents used in the basecoat.
Its not bad, but one gun of primer was not quite enough to get full coverage. The reason this primer is good under the Urethane is the hardener makes it hold up to the solvents used in the basecoat.
You don't do the high build primer without hardener first? Or, is it a case of how deep the imperfections are?
You don't do the high build primer without hardener first? Or, is it a case of how deep the imperfections are?
UP2253 is a high build primer. I only use confirmed compatible line products because otherwise the solvent in these paints can loosen or eat the paint below. Like using acetone or lacquer thinner on fresh enamel it tends to dissolve it.
You don't do the high build primer without hardener first? Or, is it a case of how deep the imperfections are?
as for imperfections the high build primer can remove scratches and other minor things but not really compensate for things that should be repaired before the primer goes down. Also you dont want to sand through the primer as I learned in the tailgate. Look carefully for the wrinkling in the basecoat caused by the subsurface.
as for imperfections the high build primer can remove scratches and other minor things but not really compensate for things that should be repaired before the primer goes down. Also you dont want to sand through the primer as I learned in the tailgate. Look carefully for the wrinkling in the basecoat caused by the subsurface.
So, you are saying you sanded through the sealed primer and base coat reacted with fomoco paint underneath? If I understand, you could theoretically use several costs of high-build without hardener, sanding between coats, then seal with one or two coats with hardener? Then base coat, clear coat?
So, you are saying you sanded through the sealed primer and base coat reacted with fomoco paint underneath? If I understand, you could theoretically use several costs of high-build without hardener, sanding between coats, then seal with one or two coats with hardener? Then base coat, clear coat?
The basecoat reacted with self etching rattle can primer (I was etch priming bare metal that popped during the hardened primer sanding) and it was only evident to me once I put the basecoat on and it wrinkled.
On the non hardened high build question, it sounds like that would work as long as the hardened primer doesn’t react with the unhardened buildcoats. A small test panel would be advisable in order to verify everything works together as desired. Would hate to have an issue on your final prepped body panel!
I do love how nicely this hardened primer sands.
After 1st primer coat sanding Leveling with the primer Primer filling previous paint orange peel
