When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Mine seemed to be OK there but where the hoop hit into the latch, mine was worn down quite a bit. Probably from being dry and someone just slamming it to make it close. I had to build mine back up. Glad you are still plugging along on the truck.
Hey Red60-
This is so much useful stuff on this build, I'm new here and working on pulling apart my 1960 so thank you so much for taking all the photos as you've been going on it. The front clip part specifically, as it has been a bit of a dig to find photos of actual units rather than looking at assembly diagrams!
-Pete
Hey Red60-
This is so much useful stuff on this build, I'm new here and working on pulling apart my 1960 so thank you so much for taking all the photos as you've been going on it. The front clip part specifically, as it has been a bit of a dig to find photos of actual units rather than looking at assembly diagrams!
-Pete
I’m glad to help. As you can see this is a team sport (thank you to all who have been providing help and/or encouragement!) and its more satisfying this way! Do you plan to use a build thread so we can watch your project unfold?
Yes I have to resize some photos and I’ll start one. It’s nice to have some heads to put together to see what problems and items everyone has had with their builds. As things are with COVID I’m living about 1000 miles from the people I’d usually have some hands on help from. So as I’ll probably say too much, thanks again for putting all the info everyone does out here to use for a shared passion of good ol’ Blue Ovals.
Starting clutch conversion. I will retain original hydraulic master and slave cylinder and build brackets and arm to convert. Pictures of getting started...
11” clutch installed on the new flywheel I added a pin to the throwout bearing swing arm New pushrod with adjustable end on the left and pivot fork on the right The fork will bolt to the pin for a pivot point. Next is installing transmission to the engine to determine slave cylinder brackets.
I agree, it looks good. I might consider putting a section of plate in or on the top of the channel to strengthen up the two tabs that bolt to the block. That way the mount will be less likely to flex.
I am sad my headers wont work. I was hoping they would drop down behind the steering box... I have seen some discussion on the forums about the steering box being in the way with different combinations.
I was going to use the Sanderson headers shown in the below picture. I think they are model #FF4.
Something like these might work for your application.
Do you know how far off the block these exit? I need to also clear my clutch pushrod. It looks like I have the best clearance straight back and then down behind the steering box.
