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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

F250 Project

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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 07:19 PM
  #421  
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I used the 9/16 on all but one of mine. Ordered all new for reassembly.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 07:47 PM
  #422  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
I used the 9/16 on all but one of mine. Ordered all new for reassembly.
I looked at LMC and didn’t see any. Was it Dennis Carpenter?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 09:32 PM
  #423  
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I ordered mine from O'Reilly Auto online. I had more trouble finding the smaller ones for headlight rings. They are called j-nuts if I remember. I always called them nut clips
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 09:45 PM
  #424  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
I ordered mine from O'Reilly Auto online. I had more trouble finding the smaller ones for headlight rings. They are called j-nuts if I remember. I always called them nut clips
do you happen to have the stock number or how they are sized?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 10:43 PM
  #425  
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Originally Posted by Red60
do you happen to have the stock number or how they are sized?
I'll look tomorrow for box. 5/16 and the offset I think.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 10:54 AM
  #426  
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Here is what I used.


A little different but same size and worked well.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 07:20 PM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
Here is what I used.


A little different but same size and worked well.
Thank you! This helps me and any others who want grill clips.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 07:26 PM
  #428  
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Spent a few hours digging dirt and rust out of the fenders at the pillar connection. It looks like a design flaw where mud can sit behind the double layer and rust. Earlier I asked why these fenders tend to rust at the top and bottom in the back. My theory is the lack of deflector for debris in the double panel area. Has anyone done a permanent fix on this in their project?







 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 07:39 PM
  #429  
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Total bad design brace is open to the front no real drain at the bottom in the direct path of any mud & water also no inner fender liner to keep it away I fixed the rust out and literally hosed the back inside with self etching primer let it dry for a week wash it out regularly or blow it with the air hose blower.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 09:05 PM
  #430  
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I am considering adding a deflection of some kind to keep debris out so the weep hole stays open. Slick111 has a workaround to keep it cleared but ideally not letting dirt get in to start with may be preferable. Anyone taken this step?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 09:12 PM
  #431  
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I repaired mine but rust was minimal. I'll check it in sixty years and see if it holds up better. I'll be 130 years old so may forget.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 12:31 PM
  #432  
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Ospho

Rust wire brushed, treated with Ospho (phosphoric), dried, & painted the backside of passengers fender. Welding to remake the square hole and support on the bottom of the drivers side.


 
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 06:48 PM
  #433  
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What about just running seam sealer most of the way down it and leaving the bottom open to drain?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 09:03 PM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by spurredon
What about just running seam sealer most of the way down it and leaving the bottom open to drain?
I decided to use Slick111’s plan. Main reason is that if I try to block the gap and stuff gets behind it, there would be no way to clear it out.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 09:05 PM
  #435  
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Fenders on the mend

More progress on valence, fenders, and radiator support.




 
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