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practice on a scrap fender or something because it takes a little finesse. Main problem I find is if I set the heat too low I cant get it to lay metal down without boogers. Set it minimally higher and it lays metal down but burns through easily. My setup has 0.035 wire so that plays into it too. If I was doing sheetmetal a lot I would have a dedicated “thin metal” setup and my standard. As it is, I just grind off the extra and call it good.
I should be all set then. I bought mine used with the thinner wire and have replaced with same size. A little thin for the welding I do but should work for body work. With practice.
My donor cab was pretty much rust free. Until it sat in the yard here for years and cab pockets filled with sand. Then came an unusually rainy year. When I finally started the project I had a half dozen small holes rusted through. Kind friend/neighbor welded patches in for me. Funny the cab was rust free but one door bottom inside had a hole big enough I had to fill with bondo to glue the door gssket.
After consideration and smoking gears in my head, I have decided against the original Ford design at the bottom of the door pillar where there is a “shelf” to collect mud and debris thus a “rot spot”.
I have designed a one piece “Skid Plate” to let the mud and water roll off cleanly.
I will tack this in and bend it to fit the edge contours then fully weld the perimeter and paint for good protection.
The front meets the center of the rolled line and fits flush inside the rails for welding. Bottom view below. Once tack welded, I will attempt to roll the edge to meet the side curves and weld fully.
I already know Im crazy but go ahead and tell me why you see this as a terrible idea. Hurry though, Im welding them in Thanksgiving afternoon!
Making some good progress today. Test fitting the door seals from LMC has me scratching my head. No instructions and they are moulded and soft (unlike the ones I got for Red 20 yr ago from LMC which were stiffer, thicker, and not form moulded). My problem is that just when I think I have the curves in the right spot, the remaining curves dont seem to match.
Does anyone know how these blasted seals are supposed to fit???
Good luck. My 1959 seals were terrible. Passenger was shaped correctly drivers not close. Both too thick. Took me five years to get around to installing or I would have returned them.
Praise God for long weekends! I finally feel like I could get some hours in and move this project forward some. Cab top is not perfect but liveable. Frame is cleaned and rust treated with converter. Skid plates are welded cleaned and painted...excellent. All holes welded and ground off. Cab corner dent is pulled out and finish filled sanded smooth. Pics