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In case you haven't figured it out already, the timing set you have on your engine is an aftermarket upgrade double roller type. It's a big improvement from the stock link belt style, but some people claim it's slightly noisier, which is one of the reasons the oem uses the link belt. Personally, I don't hear any difference. It's definitely stronger and lasts longer than stock and a worthwhile addition, imho. There are many good brands, and you don't have to spend hundreds of dollars, either. You also have the two piece fuel pump eccentric, in case you run into that question. It has inner and outer pieces that reduces friction on the pump arm. The one piece is just that. Looks basically the same but doesn't have an outer ring that spins separately. Hope this helps.
I went with the Edelbrock set when I put together my 460 awhile back and was very happy with it, and bargain priced compared to other brands. This one should fit your application. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7814/make/ford
Thank you. I did not know the set I had was an upgrade. Dads never said anything about engine work on the truck. And we have owned it since the late 80’s. maybe early 90’s. definitely will go with double roller timing set
Talked with my dad and he said a few years before it was parked he has the engine gone through and he thinks the trans as well. So that’s good news. I’ll get a new timing chain ordered up this week.
but I’m looking for some advice in the bed area. I have to widen the rear fenders anyway which I’m prepared to do. Currently the way it sits with the fenders off I can barely get a finger between the tire and bed side so I bought a trailer fender and was going to put mini tubs in. But then started thinking that maybe I should just run a wheel spacers instead. I just feel like I should have more clearance.
If I went with a wheel spacers i was looking at something like this. I don’t know what the best route to go is. It’s not like this bed is in mint shape. It was used as a farm truck for many years.
I guess I should check how long the studs are. Before doing a spacer route. If I use a spacer I don’t want a super thick one. 1/2” would be more than enough I think
I used the Explorer rear differential on my pickup which is 1/2 narrower than the stock differential and had to use 1/4" spacers to centre the wheel . When I try to run my fingers between the box side and tire I can only get to the second set of knuckles and I've never had a problem with tire rub..
Well I went ahead and cut some metal. I looked at the studs and I guess I probably could have got 1/4” spacer like John said but this will give me more room to get to the air leveling valve and brakes. So what the hell. Here is the first one finished.
Looks pretty good..no need for spacers now..how big of a trailer fender is than and where did you buy it from..what was the measurement at the base of the cut..
The fender I got from princess auto. It was originally 8-9” wide. I took a strip out of the middle and I believe these are about 3”. I can measure exactly if you want.
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