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Trying to lay out my air suspension lines. This is what I’ve come up with. No fancy computers or anything. Well be using height control valves with a dump valve, that opens by a electric solenoid. Only using one HCV for front and back. They are controlled reaction or delayed reaction valves. Not sure if I will put pressure gauges in or not. Really don’t see the need to.
Any suggestions on what I’m missing or should do different
Front tires finally showed up. So I was able to get them mounted. Went with Nitto NT555 G2. 255/50/17 on the front. Still waiting on the 275/50/17 to show up.
Who has done air suspension, what did you do about your sway bars. At ride height it’s ok but when Aired out it really tilts forward to the point it touches the tie rod. I did try and shorten the distance between the arm and the bar and it did help a bit.
Went a little different than most with my air lines. Used all stainless line abs fittings. Just need a couple more to make it functional. Added two more leveling valves so there is one on every wheel.
That's my understanding as well John . I was told with my exhaust that only minimal bends were possible which is probably why they always cut and weld on all the build shows .
Looks like you were having trouble bending those lines..I've never bent stainless lines but have heard they are hard to flare
all the line is salvaged from my work. So I had to try and straighten a lot of it. It’s easy to bend with the proper swaglok bender which I don’t have. I made my own which worked out way better than I expected it to. It was pretty easy to bend, but what is not easy is trying figure where to bend and how long of a straight run before your next bend starts. Multi bends on the same piece can get confusing. As for flaring there is no flaring with this style. It’s a two piece collet and nut style system. It’s an industrial set up. Instrumentaion guys make bending this look easy. I’m happy with the way it turned out. Could it be better obviously yes.
Did you get this problem sorted out yet..? Source a new sway bar..?
No I haven’t. I have taken it off for now. I did some research and some guys say you don’t need it with air suspension other say you still do. I think If I do end up using a sway bar I’ll look into the NASCAR style.
I took the advice of another member and added two more leveling valves. These are instant valves so they will add and release air when called. So I put them up front. My thinking on this is that I will have 200lbs of air in my tank and as soon as that valve moves off center it will call or dump air trying to keep that ride height where it’s set at.
I haven’t decided yet if these front shockwaves are going to work. I might have to swap them out
Rebuilt the rear and with a trac-lok 31 spline axles. Using the gears that were in it. I thought it was 3:50 was counting the teeth it works out to 3:25. Set the backlash around .009”
Got the disc brake conversion mocked up. Need to figure out how best to run brake lines now front and rear. And rear tires. Been waiting for over a year now for them.
Has anyone ever used these valve covers and the proform bolts. The middle top bolt won’t fit because of the angle. It hits the cover right by the 3. Is this a common thing with these?
Got most of the brake lines and fuel lines ran. Waiting on a tee fitting to complete the front. I think the air is done. Have one little leak to try and fix.
Just found out that my rear tires finally shipped. ordered the 14 months ago. Pretty excited to have it sit on the wheel and tires that I wanted.
Need to figure out what to do about power steering lines as I am using a hydro boost for brakes which is ran off the power steering.
Might try and load up the cab and the bed.