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Awesome work! Where are you located? As some others have stated, if you have any spare Merxury hood emblems please notify. I am trying to avoid chroming mine. I have one good set except the C
Awesome work! Where are you located? As some others have stated, if you have any spare Merxury hood emblems please notify. I am trying to avoid chroming mine. I have one good set except the C
Keep up the good work!
Thank you. I’m in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Emblems are hard to come by.
Thank you. I’m in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Emblems are hard to come by.
Nice to see Canadians on here! I am in northeastern Onatrio. I've raced out there and maybe visited the downtown pubs haha. Those emblems sure are hard to find! Me and my father both
have a Mercury.
Who has done air suspension, what did you do about your sway bars. At ride height it’s ok but when Aired out it really tilts forward to the point it touches the tie rod. I did try and shorten the distance between the arm and the bar and it did help a bit.
Many stock car race cars combat this due to large travel. The oldest style would have a chain link, this may work..
Nice to see Canadians on here! I am in northeastern Onatrio. I've raced out there and maybe visited the downtown pubs haha. Those emblems sure are hard to find! Me and my father both
have a Mercury.
that’s cool. Most people have no idea where Saskatoon is let alone pronouncing the province write lol. Couple nice trucks. My dad’s 56 has now been handed down to my younger brother. So hopefully one day we will have a 53 and a 56 running together
Many stock car race cars combat this due to large travel. The oldest style would have a chain link, this may work..
not sure what you mean by chain link. Have any pics.
with the instant air leveling valve I’m not sure I will need a sway bar. But it would limit the air usage from dumping and filling possibly. My ears are always open.
Extremely happy my rear tires finally showed up after 14 months, just a bit taller and wider than the fronts can’t wait to get them mounted.
255/50/10 on left(front) and 275/50/17 on right(rear)
Got the rear tires mounted. I think it looks good. Started to pull the engine accessories off in anticipation of the cvf racing serpentine belt kit coming. Then I can finish up the power steering and hydro boost brake lines. Took the stock exhaust manifolds off, was really expecting a fight and at least one broken bolt, but to my surprise they all came out with ease. Chalk that up for a win.
Also ordered a champion 3 row aluminum rad. But when it showed up the shroud holes are off by a 1/4”. Emailed them and they said that is normal as it’s all hand done and to Just drill the holes out. When you spend that kind of $$$ I’d expect things to line up properly.
I installed the same Champion eas a few years ago and had the same concern. My 56 Mer has a 302 and looks a little plain, was thinking of a CVF kit too, curious to see how yours looks
from what I have read cvf makes good stuff, but they insisted that I spend and extra $350usd on a power steering pump for my hydro boost set up, even though there add said it is compatible with HB. even when I questioned them on it they said I the GM type II pump in the kit won't work, so I call jim at hydra tech, he specializes in HB, and I gave him the specs on the power steering pump and he said it will work just fine for my application. Another thing was the shipping was expensive to Canada, plus duties taxes and dollar exhchange, I ask if there was any other option other than USPS that they listed though the ebay add that could maybe save me a few bucks, and they said no, thats all they offere. Fine ok. I order it and get a shipping notice from DHL that my parts are on the way. so I email them again and, they said I was cheaper to go with DHL so thats why they shipped it that way instead, so I ask if I get to a refund of the difference, I guess thats not a thing cause he answered me with, So if aluminum went up between when we listed the item for sale in ebay and when it ships, do we get to charge you for the extra price of aluminum?
I just hope the parts work as they should.
Figured what the hell let’s try and put the bed on. And it won’t fit. Floor has to be raised up which I knew. But the fenders aren’t liking the 275 rear tires. Might have to widen them.
I knew the diff was going to be in the floor but never thought about my leveling valves. They are even higher than the diff. I was thinking that they would be in the fender area. Oh well. Not a big deal. The fenders that’s a big deal, and will be a challenge. Would love to see how others have widen their fender.
Also how you mount the bed without the floor to get it to line up with running boards
The easy way out on the fenders is to get the fiberglass 3" wider sets available. There are people here who have successfully widened steel fenders, but it is a lot of work to get the contour right on the filler pieces. You may have the talent to pull it off. I know for all I can do, my metal shaping and welding expertise is not there for that challenge.
The bed crossmembers should fit across the frame rails, and the bedsides sit on the ends of the crossmembers. It can go together without floor boards.
I need new bed crossmembers. The ones I hard are roached. So you just need to account for the bed wood thickness to set the bed up properly then on the two middle crossmembers? And the front and rear of the bed actually sit on the frame then?
as far as fenders go. I have nothing to lose cutting and welding these fenders. They are in ok shape but someone decided back in the 70’s to cut the back of the off with a gas axe. Might to widen and repair them. Before buy buying repops
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
