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I agree with using the pump vs the seal kit. I also agree that a minor PS leak isn't anything to worry about. The Jeep had one for the last ten years, and a qt of fluid every now and then is a minor thing.
I'm not sure about the exhaust leak, but I agree with Larry, I don't think, even working correctly, that the bolt hole should be connected to an exhaust port in the head. May be a crack in the head or something? I don't have that particular engine in anything, so I've never worked with it.
This is obviously an aftermarket intake manifold. And the ignition coil mounts at the bolt hole on the upper left of the manifold.
And if you look, that IS, an Exhaust Port. And that IS where Matt has an exhaust leak.
Yes it is the same application.
This is obviously an aftermarket intake manifold. And the ignition coil mounts at the bolt hole on the upper left of the manifold.
And if you look, that IS, an Exhaust Port. And that IS where Matt has an exhaust leak.
Yes it is the same application.
If I end up replacing mine, I may just have to get one of these!!
This is obviously an aftermarket intake manifold. And the ignition coil mounts at the bolt hole on the upper left of the manifold.
And if you look, that IS, an Exhaust Port. And that IS where Matt has an exhaust leak.
Yes it is the same application.
Bob,
I agree that it does run right through the middle of the exhaust port. The part I do not get, is why would they do that? having the exhaust port connect directly to the bolt that holds the coil, doesn't make a lot of sense to me, unless it was sealed.
However, that being said, I am not a Ford Engineer, so I don't know. However, if it is supposed to seal the system from an exhaust leak there, that is a bolt in it. I would suspect putting a bolt in it should do the trick. And thread tape and RTV sealant may help as well.
Matt, can you get a good picture of that bolt hole for us? so we can see what you are working with there?
I'll try to get a pic when I get home tonight. From speaking with Bob when he was down, and my neighbor, it would appear that what ever I do will be a temporary fix, that is temporary until I'm ready to either put a new intake manifold on there or put a new motor in altogether. I think I remember both of them saying it was not advisable or possible to remove a broken bolt from there without some major work.
Oh, so there is a broken bolt in the mounting location already, which means that taking it out is going to be trouble.
On another note, the paint work I've been planning on doing to the 1 ton is still on hold. The jeep takes up the other bay of the shop. I've still got this pesky Triumph on the garage where the jeep needs to go. The goal was to drive the TR6 over to a friends garage, since it's his car, but we found out, after getting things bolted back together, that the clutch doesn't engage. Figure that it sat for so long in my place that the clutch has frozen in place. Hoping that starting it in gear might free something up, but that'll be a long shot. So maybe after dinner on Saturday, I'll load it on the trailer and haul it over to him.
If I end up replacing mine, I may just have to get one of these!!
That's up to you. But myself I wouldn't spend the money for an aluminum intake, then the price of adding a 4bbl carb to a stock engine, that should run fine with that 2bl carb.
Later if/when you want to build another engine for more horse power, then go for it.
That's up to you. But myself I wouldn't spend the money for an aluminum intake, then the price of adding a 4bbl carb to a stock engine, that should run fine with that 2bl carb.
Later if/when you want to build another engine for more horse power, then go for it.
Yeah, I didn't really think it through, I just saw a clean, shiny new part and I got all excited.
Yeah, I didn't really think it through, I just saw a clean, shiny new part and I got all excited.
yeah, I hear ya. I like all of that shiny stuff too. I just don't think it will benefit you any. Not right now, with an older engine. And just adding a 4bby carb may even be too much fuel.
Finally broke down and changed the plug for that #2 misfire on my truck this morning. I've had the plug for over a month, and tried before but there was something down the plug hole and I couldn't get the socket on the plug. Finally between air, and needle nose pliers was able to fish it out.
Yea I like to rush into these kind of things.... between being so busy the last couple weeks, and driving the volvo and bike almost everywhere the truck hasn't had a full tank of gas burned through it in 2 months.
With Bob's help we were able to get the Triumph out of the garage, and loaded up on the trailer. A few in gear starts (no clutch safety switch) and the clutch decided to engage again and start acting normal. That was a nice bonus, made loading the TR6 real easy.
The F-150 keeps blowing the fuse for the trailer tail lights. IT's doing it on both trailers as far as I can tell. I have a whole stock of 20 amp and 30 amp fuses, but no 25 amp fuses. Guess I'll have to go get some and figure this thing out.
At least that means my buddy may not have screwed up my trailer lights though. That's a good thought. I'm going to try to get a bit more organization in the shop prior to starting the paint work on the 350. It'll be nice to be able to move around some in there.
Darn RAIN!!! Trying to do the passenger side rear suspension bushings today. Got the wheel off and everything jacked up and secured with stands, loosen up some bolts and the rain starts pouring down Wish I had a decent garage
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.