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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1986 F-250 Progress Thread

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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 01:50 PM
  #406  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
They like to burn the exhaust valve on #3.
Do you happen to know what the chances of no compression being caused by the valves being way out of adjustment? K am really hoping that's all that is wrong but won't know till this weekend.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 01:56 PM
  #407  
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"Chances"... like a percentage?

Valve recession is always an issue when you run these things hard and hot.
The valves are easy enough to adjust.
Do NOT overtighten -and strip- the adjusters.

Once you do the adjustment, I'd suggest a leakdown just to see what the health of rings and valve seats are.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #408  
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Do yourself a favor, go find a copy of the VW complete idiot book. It is full of valuable information. 71 should be a dual port 1600, they are bad about cracking heads. Once it is running, do not lug it! Low rpm = low air flow = overheating.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #409  
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #410  
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Nice. I got a Haynes manual so far... I watched a nice video about adjusting the valves for this motor. It's easy but I just have to find time.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #411  
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Just be sure anytime you adjust them it's completely cold. The Haynes manual is OK, the other book is far superior.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #412  
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My neighbor, last summer gave me a Haynes manual for 1980-96 F series and Bronco, I've used it quite a few times. It's come in handy.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #413  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Just be sure anytime you adjust them it's completely cold. The Haynes manual is OK, the other book is far superior.
Yeah being that the motor doesn't run, it will end up being pretty cold when they get adjusted. Which I want to try tomorrow.

The Haynes manual is actually pretty nice IMO, as far as general repair and specs it's easier than googling everything to try to find 1 torque spec only to get a bunch of for sale ads...
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 09:59 PM
  #414  
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Did an oil change today.



Picture is worth a thousand words.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 10:15 PM
  #415  
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Man... Half of one of those Rotella jugs fills my beetle haha.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #416  
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Be sure you change the oil filter on it
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 11:09 PM
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Oh don't worry! I tossed the new one out and washed the old filter out with water and put it back on, seriously though. The Motorcraft FL-1A has 5 more PSI at hot idle in drive, 45 psi vs 40. as well as in park now (55 vs 50 psi) And about 3 more PSI at cruise over the Purolator L30001.(58-62 PSI vs 55-58) It seems that the Fl-1A case is slightly stronger over the L30001. It also seems to changed how now when you step on the throttle hard, the oil pressure goes up higher. I think I'll permanently go back to the FL-1A.
 
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Old May 1, 2013 | 11:14 PM
  #418  
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Oh, and I also found out what was causing my hot hard re start, it was my mechanical advance hanging up slightly sometimes, I moved it back and forth kinda hard and it hasn't been hard to turn over while hot or anything ever since, I am going to take the distributor back apart and fix it for good soon though. Oh, and my Made in China DS II box has the start retard feature that works, maybe now I can set the timing back up to 12-14* BTDC and not have any problems.
 
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Old May 2, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #419  
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Matthew, the oil filter comment was for GruesomeJeans. I'll explain once he does an oil change on the VW.
 
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Old May 2, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #420  
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Heh are you meaning that the damn thing doesn't have an oil filter and that I have to unbolt the small oil screen by the drainplug and clean it? I bought a filter and everything but found out its internal.
 
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