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I will and am lol, it should be completely different once I'm done. Before it goes back together I need to take the shift linkage bracket off and heat it with acetylene to make it work properly again, thanks exhaust shop. But it shouldn't be too hard to make it work correctly again.
Got 2, one has an axe head on the other side and the other is an old ball peen that I got free from a neighbor who had a yard sale. She had a bunch of other tools. The wood handle needs replacing but it gets the job done
I got all the spools and pistons back in the valve body, it'll be ready to be put back together tomorrow, I also took out my old servo piston. It's the N code that's the molded rubber style, talk about hard as a brick. Good thing I already have a new one to replace it lol.
I found this site that talks about the different servo sizes and their associated parts. My servo cover says D on it, so if that means I have the D servo and that letter isn't just there for some other reason, then my trans has a servo that's about halfway between yours and the R-code.
Now you've got me wanting to work on my transmission, lol. BUT THAT MUST WAIT, I have to fix the flywheel first. lol
I found this site that talks about the different servo sizes and their associated parts. My servo cover says D on it, so if that means I have the D servo and that letter isn't just there for some other reason, then my trans has a servo that's about halfway between yours and the R-code.
Now you've got me wanting to work on my transmission, lol. BUT THAT MUST WAIT, I have to fix the flywheel first. lol
Yeah, yours should have a way better first to second gear shift than mine lol.
Mine's about as slushy as yours if it's in drive. It got better when I changed the filter and started running Trick Shift but as it sits now I've put some Dex/Merc back in since it was all I could afford sometimes.
What's involved in changing out the servo? I read that some require you to disassemble the trans while some are able to be replaced with the trans still in the vehicle.
Question is, do you have to take anything else apart to put it back together? lol
Check your kickdown linkage to see if it's all in place inside the transmission. I think the big metal bracket I found in the pan when I did the fluid change was part of that linkage, and now I'm able to pull the entire kickdown rod (which the yellow rod connects to) out of the transmission. Which then results in a rain of red. I need to fix that.
My external kickdown linkage isn't even connected. Due to the Edelbrick 1406. I just backed the band adjustment way off before I took the servo out, I'll spray out the hole, lube everything up and slide it back in then do the band adjustment and call it good.
Well, the shift kit was successful! it shifts pretty dang firm in second and a soft firm in to third at light throttle. It DEFINITELY is more peppy now. I wound up using 7.5 quarts of Dexron 3/Mercon.
On the way home the truck was running like it had a vacuum leak, almost wanting to die at stop signs, even in park. once you got to about 1200 RPM it was fine. I shut it off, popped the hood and checked it real quick, started it up and it was perfectly fine again. It's not the transmission causing that, it was acting like it was the carb. Weird. Yes, I did check the modulator line and it was on. I thought it may have fallen off since I backed the modulator valve out today and I need to back it out another turn now.
Used the truck as a truck today, hauled about 2 yards of bark through some really hilly, heavy traffic terrain, and came back with 390 pounds of crap that went to the dump. Truck didn't use all that much gas for how hilly and heavy the loads were, I was almost having a hard time getting up some of the hills with the bark at light throttle lol.
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