When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
No. Mine is from a 78/79 truck. These had d60 closed knuckles in them stock if I remember right (been waaaay too long). It's some weird axle that's not near desirable. My truck however had a D44 in it from the PO when I bought it. I swapped in my D60.
If you hear of anyone getting rid of a kingpin out of 78/79 here on the west coast.. let me know. Mine has the D44 right now. Running 35's but soon to be going larger and with the 6bt it definitely needs a 60.
Hey I followed your excellent build thread......I’m also in CA and am just starting the Cummins swap on my 1974 CC 4x4.
can you tell me exactly what freight liner M2 intercooler you used?
Did you put AC in the truck?
Dis you have to cut the firewall and frame crossmember to get the 12v to fit?
Where in CA are you.......maybe I should just buy your truck and save me some time🤷♂️I’d love to see yours in person......
I'm here...
1) Freightliner intercooler wasn't me. I use one out of a 2001 Ford F-250/350
2) I started dealing with AC but stopped working on things before I got super far. I was looking at a few different options. My toughest piece was the condenser as even the narrowest one I couldn't fit out in front of my intercooler or between my radiator and the intercooler. This was due to my radiator choice. My plan was to run the condenser under the cab or bed with a dedicated fan that would turn on when the AC came on.
3) Firewall no cutting - but that did make things tighter up front = see my condenser issues above. Frame crossmember under the motor got a very big hack due to the oil pan on the cummins. Hind sight being 20/20 I wish I had just removed it completely and fabricated a new cross member that tied into the motor mounts.
4) I'm in Huntington Beach. Come buy it you'll be wellllll ahead of the curve with a truck that is almost done. I've got hundreds of hours in fabrication in this thing I can't get back price wise, so whoever ends up with it will score.
Hello all. I am very new here. So I have a 69 f350 crew long bed 2 wd auto. I welded the front of a 76 high boy to it. I don't have the correct c6 trans. Does anyone know were or what bracket I need to mount 4x4 stick to side of my 2 wd c6? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
This is the intercooler i ran on my 74 CC Cummins swap. what radiator are you using? no cutting needed IMO if you cut the firewall to fit a 12v you didnt take the time to properly fit the motor. i left the cross member in, hacked everything off except the bottom of the cross member and about an inch and a half of lip on the sides, had a piece of 1/2 inch steel cut to width to sit inside the cross member, cut it to length, used the torch to bend it to shape, clamped it in and welded it up and grinded off the remaining 1/2 inch or so of the side of the cross member thats remaining. a 3/4 inch solid plate of steel gives more than enough strength and clearance for the pan.
Does anyone have a picture of their rear crew doors without the door panels on handy?
I'm wondering if the rear crew doors have speaker cutouts?
I think the answer is no based on the door panels not having a speaker grill area like the front panels do, but would like visual confirmation before I send back some extra speakers that were shipped to me. I'm not going to cut holes for speakers since the rear doors are hard to come by.
Does anyone have a picture of their rear crew doors without the door panels on handy?
I'm wondering if the rear crew doors have speaker cutouts?
I think the answer is no based on the door panels not having a speaker grill area like the front panels do, but would like visual confirmation before I send back some extra speakers that were shipped to me. I'm not going to cut holes for speakers since the rear doors are hard to come by.
I pulled off my rear door panels and got around to scraping out the old weatherstripping. In pulling off the rear door panels here are a few things I noted that could be of use to this crew cab thread.
I believe this is the rear passenger door panel stamped with P/N D3TS-2527472 AWA:
I didn't know that the rear door panels have metal shields that screw into the door. I also learned that the rear window regulator is literally only held in place by the three bolts on the metal door shield. The metal door shield has an upper and lower piece, The upper piece has a lip on the bottom of it that goes on top of the lower plate. You can see that in the picture below. When disassembling the first door I removed the upper shield first. I found that I prefer to remove and install the upper shield first, simply leaving the bolts loose enough to allow the top of the lower shield to slip under the bottom of the upper shield before tightening everything down.
Here's how my driver side door looked after I cleaned it up inside and put sound deadener on it, hence the shine!
I only had to loosen one bolt, for the front lower glass run, to allow for enough room to get the glass in and out of the channels while I was doing everything. I didn't think to take pictures of the regulators. I wish I had, but the doors are back together now. I used black 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue the weatherstripping in place to the channels.
About a year after completing the front windows with new weatherstripping, I've finally completed the rear doors.
hey all im new to the group and have acquired a 77 crew cab that I want to restore! Does anybody by chance have a couple black rear door panels they would part with?? I know its a long shot! Why nobody made a repop is completely beyond me
Hey all. need to decode the frame vin on my cc. Found a minty short box, but bed holes dont line up with the frame... not sure of box year- thought it was a 77-79 but not sure now. unless CC had their own boxs i thought any 77-79 would fit
Hard to make out after the powder coating. a pencil rub gave me F26SC(R?) E2296. Im guessn its a 79
Hey all. need to decode the frame vin on my cc. Found a minty short box, but bed holes dont line up with the frame... not sure of box year- thought it was a 77-79 but not sure now. unless CC had their own boxs i thought any 77-79 would fit
Hard to make out after the powder coating. a pencil rub gave me F26SC(R?) E2296. Im guessn its a 79
The 77 1/2 models went to the wider frame of 37" and everything prior to that was 34" wide.
Ladies and gents! Just showing face. I’ve owned my crew cab for about 6 years now. Spent the last five living abroad, and just returned from an 8 month deployment, quite a bit to get done so I’ll be asking and searching. Here’s Babs (Barbara Ann), she’s a 1974 F250 4x4, NP435/205 divorced, D60-4.10’s front and back, non-disc, with a ‘66 390 Ci engine (C6ME-A).
Just finished the following: New drive shafts (F/R), All fluids flushed and changed, Holley rebuilt, T-Stat, new aux gauges (dead after a year of being overseas), fuel lines/filters, and EVERY light bulb on board.
She’s getting a smidge of rust around the drivers door (front corner), passenger side front door (aft corner), and the drivers side fender bottom at the mounts.
What’s the popular opinion, new door skins and fenders or cut, patch, sand, blend paint?
You've got a good looking crewcab there northerncoastie! I love the color.
I'd replace the fenders and doors with originals from a junkyard or parts truck.
The second path I'd go down is cut, patch, sand, blend paint.
The final approach I'd take is new door skins because of the level of work involved and the thought that the skins would be thinner metal than original metal.
