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L&L completed my order today. Scrappy hates styrofoam packing peanuts as much as I do. Whoever invented those things should be sterilized. One of the decals got gouged up by the starter ring gear. Should I request a replacement?
Well, it won't be a 466 cubic inch engine. The machine shop finished up the block today. Bored to 4.390". However, it's confirmed that the crankshaft's #1 main journal needs grinding. I'm not going that route on this one. Since quality aftermarket 3.85" cranks are just about non existent, and I was already buying new rods and pistons, I'm ordering a complete 4.140" stroker rotating assembly. A 4.140" stroke and 4.390" bore equals 501 cubic inches. Damn! I really wasn't wanting that, but it should be a fun build, and a fun ride.
Bad side, (besides fuel mileage) is I need a little more induction than what I planned on. The camshaft I have isn't gonna cut it. I'm looking at a Howard's camshaft that has a little more duration @ .050" lift, and a little more valve lift. And I'm not using the D0VE cylinder heads that I had worked over. I just ordered a set of Trick Flow cylinder heads. I may even need to go with a Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold, instead of the Performer that I have. But I'll make that call after I try it in the truck.
Well, it won't be a 466 cubic inch engine. The machine shop finished up the block today. Bored to 4.390". However, it's confirmed that the crankshaft's #1 main journal needs grinding. I'm not going that route on this one. Since quality aftermarket 3.85" cranks are just about non existent, and I was already buying new rods and pistons, I'm ordering a complete 4.140" stroker rotating assembly. A 4.140" stroke and 4.390" bore equals 501 cubic inches. Damn! I really wasn't wanting that, but it should be a fun build, and a fun ride.
Bad side, (besides fuel mileage) is I need a little more induction than what I planned on. The camshaft I have isn't gonna cut it. I'm looking at a Howard's camshaft that has a little more duration @ .050" lift, and a little more valve lift. And I'm not using the D0VE cylinder heads that I had worked over. I just ordered a set of Trick Flow cylinder heads. I may even need to go with a Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold, instead of the Performer that I have. But I'll make that call after I try it in the truck.
Why stop there ?4,000 hp Seriously, sorry about the set back
I thought about doing that, but I really don't want to lose any hauling capacity on my flatbed. I suppose I could boat hull the engine compartment, and use it as a trunk.
Sometimes it's just more cost-effective to go with aftermarket bundles. A stroker kit from the likes of Eagle or Scat will coordinate and balance all the parts. Similarly, a top-end kit such as those from Edelbrock will match cam, heads, and intake manifold. I'd consult with the folks at TrickFlow to learn what they recommend. After all, they have customer feedback and other data sources that we don't.
I thought about doing that, but I really don't want to lose any hauling capacity on my flatbed. I suppose I could boat hull the engine compartment, and use it as a trunk.
LOl ! You better run that by Scrappy. What are the options you have with the crank you have?
Sometimes it's just more cost-effective to go with aftermarket bundles. A stroker kit from the likes of Eagle or Scat will coordinate and balance all the parts. Similarly, a top-end kit such as those from Edelbrock will match cam, heads, and intake manifold. I'd consult with the folks at TrickFlow to learn what they recommend. After all, they have customer feedback and other data sources that we don't.
I've already spoken with the guys at Ohio Crankshaft. Don Pell recommended them. I plan to get their all forged 501 / 514 assembly. They make the crankshaft and H-beam rods. SRP 28cc pistons.
LOl ! You better run that by Scrappy. What are the options you have with the crank you have?
Scrappy only demands that the truck is available for her to lay on while we're outside. Other than that, she doesn't care what's under the hood.
Options for the stock crankshaft? Well, I could have it ground. But crankshaft grinding has nearly become a lost art, and about the only folks I'd have do it are in other states. So when you add up the cost of shipping both ways, and the cost of grinding, it's more money than what I'll pay for a new forged crankshaft. That's one option. Another option is use it as a mailbox post. Classy though it may be, I think I'll find other uses for the crankshaft.
Scrappy only demands that the truck is available for her to lay on while we're outside. Other than that, she doesn't care what's under the hood.
Options for the stock crankshaft? Well, I could have it ground. But crankshaft grinding has nearly become a lost art, and about the only folks I'd have do it are in other states. So when you add up the cost of shipping both ways, and the cost of grinding, it's more money than what I'll pay for a new forged crankshaft. That's one option. Another option is use it as a mailbox post. Classy though it may be, I think I'll find other uses for the crankshaft.
The mail box post option is not one that came to me although it's not bad. Your flat bed will sure have some grunt to it on your new path. If you could, give us some links to your new choices if you wouldn't mind. The wife and I have 2 shop mascots also Chloe and ***** and they too run the place (Outpost Zulu)
I'll post links of these components, but here's the basic recipe. '71 460 block bored to 4.390". Crankshaft with 4.140" stroke instead of factory 3.85" stroke, 6.700" BBC rods, SRP dish 28cc 1.520" compression height pistons. Trick Flow 290cc intake 74cc combustion chamber heads. I'll use Comp or PRW all steel roller rockers. Currently have a Lunati camshaft that doesn't really have enough intake duration for this combination, so I'm looking at a Howards camshaft. I have an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold that will work, but the runners are smaller than the intake ports on the heads. So I may go to a RPM Air Gap, maybe. Edelbrock 800 cfm AVS2 1912 carburetor with probably 2" of spacers under it. I'll keep this engine below 9.6:1 static compression ratio. Once I get the rotating assembly installed, I'll be able to measure for head gasket thickness that'll let me hit that 9.6:1 target.
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Seriously, sorry about the set back 
You better run that by Scrappy. What are the options you have with the crank you have?
