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I'm not sure about the connecting rods yet. That depends on a few measurements I need from the machine shop...how much the decks get machined, and how far up the crankshaft has moved after align honing the main bores.Those two measurements will tell me how much the deck height has been shortened. And that of course will tell me what the piston's compression height needs to be. And rod selection also depends the chosen piston's wrist pin type, whether they're press fit, floating, or some can go either way. It wouldn't hurt my feelings to use the original connecting rods. If all the other pieces of the puzzle fit, and the rods are good, I may just have them resized and new bolts installed. But I'll probably buy new rods. Either way, they'll be standard length 6.605" rods
Ronzi, that's gorgeous! Is your transmission bolted on? What motor mounts? They look like mine, but it's hard to tell. Have you run into any fitment issues with those headers?
With the hydraulic roller cam are you needing to go with different pushrods and/or rockers? Will need to go thru mine in the future and trying to plan on what I need.
With the hydraulic roller cam are you needing to go with different pushrods and/or rockers? Will need to go thru mine in the future and trying to plan on what I need.
Absolutely. Even if stock pushrod length works (never happens), you still need to buy hardened pushrods because of the pushrod guides. Pushrod selection is one of the final steps in the build. There's no way to know what you need until the heads are bolted down with the actual gasket you're using, and you have the rocker arms. I'll be using PRW full roller rocker arms.
With the hydraulic roller cam are you needing to go with different pushrods and/or rockers? Will need to go thru mine in the future and trying to plan on what I need.
Another thing. When I measure for pushrod length, I do it on at least two cylinders, on each bank. So far I've always done #'s 1, 4, 5, & 8. And don't assume that the length of the intake and exhaust pushrods will be the same. That's especially true with staggered valve angles like on a 460.
Ronzi, that's gorgeous! Is your transmission bolted on? What motor mounts? They look like mine, but it's hard to tell. Have you run into any fitment issues with those headers?
The headers fit but the passenger side is very close to the frame rail and it is blowing right on my trans cooler lines. I have open headers still as I haven't got to the exhaust yet.
I am not positive but I feel like my motor sits a little higher than it did with the L&L motor mounts I had before because my factory a/c box and my brake booster now wont fit but it is probably just my valve covers are too tall now. If I put stock valve covers on everything clears but my rockers hit the valve covers. For now I have put a smaller booster on and I have ordered a vintage air a/c system that mounts under the dash. If the smaller booster is not strong enough I will look at swapping to a hydra boost. set up.
The headers fit but the passenger side is very close to the frame rail and it is blowing right on my trans cooler lines. I have open headers still as I haven't got to the exhaust yet.
I am not positive but I feel like my motor sits a little higher than it did with the L&L motor mounts I had before because my factory a/c box and my brake booster now wont fit but it is probably just my valve covers are too tall now. If I put stock valve covers on everything clears but my rockers hit the valve covers. For now I have put a smaller booster on and I have ordered a vintage air a/c system that mounts under the dash. If the smaller booster is not strong enough I will look at swapping to a hydra boost. set up.
That sounds about right. Russel @ "460 EFI Guy's" recommends our L&L headers for the 351M/400 to 460 swap. He told me that he once had to pie cut, tweak, then weld up the passenger side collector for clearance. I didn't ask him specifics, but I think you just answered it. I've got a manual transmission, so I won't have cooler lines to contend with. Our truck frames are old, and there's no telling how much flexing and warping has occurred over the years. Not to mention manufacturer tolerances. Time will tell if there's other header clearance issues to deal with.
From what L&L has told me, their mounts and probably the ones you bought, are designed to raise and tilt the engine a bit, so that late model 460 front dress will clear the fan shroud. For that reason, I'm already prepared to alter my clutch pivot location in order to keep the Z-bar parallel.
I'm using roller rockers, and have to go with tall valve covers. Rich asked me about valve cover / brake booster clearance. I told him I don't think I'll have issues, since I've got a F350 booster which is smaller in diameter than the stock 1/2 ton booster. But like you, I kinda hope I do have clearance issues, so I'll be compelled to do the hydraboost conversion sooner.
Ronzi, that is a little close. It's hard to tell from looking at just one angle, but I think I wouldn't be opposed to grinding down the header and exhaust pipe flanges a bit. And I also wouldn't be afraid to relieve the frame, with a long slow radius. Or if there's room on the other side of that header, do what Russel did...pie cut, bend, TIG weld it up.
Redroad, here's a test stand teaser. I needed to get the forward uprights done before I take the block to the machine shop. That was the last pre-machining task. I'll fabricate the rear uprights when I get the engine assembled.
This might be something of value to someone doing a 385 rebuild. I have a few books on 385 engines, and I caught something interesting while reading. I checked my block, and sure nuff, there' s a problem with oil gallery holes at #1 & #5 main saddles. The oil gallery hole does not line up with the center of the oil slot in the bearings. The other three mains have centered holes. So while I was deburring the block, and beveling some of the other oil holes, I fixed this problem. And guess what, the only journals on my crankshaft that have any marks are, you guessed it.... #1 and #5.
With the bearing in the saddle, you can see that the gallery hole isn't centered beneath the slot.
Here you can see the impression left by the bearing slot. The oil hole clearly doesn't line up with the bearing slot. And you can see the bevel I cut.
I'm not sure about the connecting rods yet. That depends on a few measurements I need from the machine shop...how much the decks get machined, and how far up the crankshaft has moved after align honing the main bores.Those two measurements will tell me how much the deck height has been shortened. And that of course will tell me what the piston's compression height needs to be. And rod selection also depends the chosen piston's wrist pin type, whether they're press fit, floating, or some can go either way. It wouldn't hurt my feelings to use the original connecting rods. If all the other pieces of the puzzle fit, and the rods are good, I may just have them resized and new bolts installed. But I'll probably buy new rods. Either way, they'll be standard length 6.605" rods
Ok if using original rods there is one that is a no go. I'm sure you know but for those that do not.
There were 2 common factory rods the football head rods and the broached or square head rod bolt rods. See below pic.
DO NOT under any circumstances reuse broached or square head rod bolt rods.
The square head rod bolt rods are known for failing once they get some miles on them, and will not handle any elevated RPM's at all.
Over the years I have seen 3 different 385's builds crater due to these rods being used. And under what would be considered street use.
The football head rods are good rods they are forged and with good bolts (ARP) are good for an easy 550 HP and 6500 RPM with stock weight pistons.
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