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"If your 460 has the 4 larger bolts, 2 at the timing cover, 2 at the rear main cap, You will need to drill the holes in the gasket using a 5/16 drill bit."
Rich is correct. My 77 engine and yours shouldn’t be any different. You need to drill those holes out bigger. I used a stepped drill bit not a regular drill bit. Had less issues with how the bit dug into/bit into the gasket and I didn’t wreck anything.
Rich is correct. My 77 engine and yours shouldn’t be an different. You need to drill those holes out bigger. I used a stepped drill bit not a regular drill bit. Had less issues with how the bit dug into/bit into the gasket and I didn’t wreck anything.
Yep, mine's got four bigger bolts at the corners. I'll probably use a hardened hole punch on the gasket, and a step bit on the pan.
I just ordered the "460 EFI Guys" motor mounts. Russell returned my call, and sent me the pics below. They've changed the plate that bolts to the towers. It's now one piece, formed on a press brake. I like the change. And I especially like vendors that will get in the weeds with their customers. Thank you, Russell.
Yep, mine's got four bigger bolts at the corners. I'll probably use a hardened hole punch on the gasket, and a step bit on the pan.
I’m going off of memory but I think the 4 corner holes in the gasket had like a steel bushing in it. Either you have to drill them to size or remove them completely. I drilled them up to the proper bolt size. I didn’t want to remove them completely.
If I’m right not sure if a hole punch is going to work. Take a look at the gasket and double check.
Doosenberry, I'm leaning toward your motor mounts. How many miles have you got on them? Any complaints?
I don't have too many miles on them yet. Maybe 1k miles. They're in my 78 Bronco and so far so good.
I did have a little bit of a geometry issue with my mechanical clutch linkage though. I guess they make the mounts so they'll tilt the engine a little so it allows you to run a factory serpentine setup without any clearance problems. At least that's what they told me when I called to see if they knew about this. It's not an issue with an automatic though and I guess most of their customers using manual transmissions swap to a zf5 with a hydraulic clutch. I just had to keep my 4 speed which of course cost me. They actually never had someone run into what I did or at least never called in about it if they did.
I’m going off of memory but I think the 4 corner holes in the gasket had like a steel bushing in it. Either you have to drill them to size or remove them completely. I drilled them up to the proper bolt size. I didn’t want to remove them completely.
If I’m right not sure if a hole punch is going to work. Take a look at the gasket and double check.
You're right. The metal in the gasket is much thicker than I thought it'd be. Too thick for a hollow punch. But that just makes it easy to drill.
I don't have too many miles on them yet. Maybe 1k miles. They're in my 78 Bronco and so far so good.
I did have a little bit of a geometry issue with my mechanical clutch linkage though. I guess they make the mounts so they'll tilt the engine a little so it allows you to run a factory serpentine setup without any clearance problems. At least that's what they told me when I called to see if they knew about this. It's not an issue with an automatic though and I guess most of their customers using manual transmissions swap to a zf5 with a hydraulic clutch. I just had to keep my 4 speed which of course cost me. They actually never had someone run into what I did or at least never called in about it if they did.
Hmmm, that's a little disconcerting. I've got a T18. But alterations and fabrications just add to the flavor. What did you do to remediate the problem?
Hmmm, that's a little disconcerting. I've got a T18. But alterations and fabrications just add to the flavor. What did you do to remediate the problem?
So there are two pivot studs for the mechanical linkage. I had to either raise the bell housing side or lower the frame side to get them lined up again. I'm not a fabricator, but I took the frame side bracket, ordered a new pivot stud from jbg, and had a shop cut off the old stud and weld on the new stud about an inch lower. That was the only issue I had geometry wise.
So there are two pivot studs for the mechanical linkage. I had to either raise the bell housing side or lower the frame side to get them lined up again. I'm not a fabricator, but I took the frame side bracket, ordered a new pivot stud from jbg, and had a shop cut off the old stud and weld on the new stud about an inch lower. That was the only issue I had geometry wise.
Great info. Thanks. I anticipated some clutch linkage silliness, and I have all new clutch linkage sitting in a box. Z-bar, bushings, felts, pivot stud, pushrod, and clutch fork. Looks like I may be doing some cutting and welding.
Great info. Thanks. I anticipated some clutch linkage silliness, and I have all new clutch linkage sitting in a box. Z-bar, bushings, felts, pivot stud, pushrod, and clutch fork. Looks like I may be doing some cutting and welding.
I have before and after pics of the bracket I can post later if you want.
Doosenberry, not that it matters now, but did you consider shimming the motor mounts? I put a 1/4" plate between my towers and mounts on my 400. That actually raised it over 1/2".
And another BTW. Today I started gathering steel to build an engine test stand. I intended to build it for my 302 build, but haven't gotten around to it. But now I want it done because as soon as this 460 is finished, I want to break it in on the stand, fix anything that pops up, then get the engine in the truck.
Doosenberry, not that it matters now, but did you consider shimming the motor mounts? I put a 1/4" plate between my towers and mounts on my 400. That actually raised it over 1/2".
I hadn't. Modifying the pivot bracket was a fairly simple thing to have done and the rest of the drive train was sitting properly, so it worked out. Shimming may work out though, it just needs to raise the rear of the engine a bit as that's where one of the pivot studs sits. Mine was with an NP435 btw.
