Thanks again for the invite, this is exactly what I need for this build.

Is there any threads on TC you can shoot me to give me an idea of what I should be looking for? As much as I understand mechanics, I'm more of an electrical/welder kind of guy, I love customization. I've only ever replaced engines in VW Bugs and an MG Midget, a long with an old '37 ford pick-up my grandfather passed down to me.

I agree on the higher stall, given the displacement of the engine, I'll also be putting 35" tires on as well. I'll have to watch some YouTube videos on choosing the right TC, if someone on this thread has something similar to what I'm wanting to do, I'd love input!

 

@ Casey Welcome to FTE When you get let's get you started on you're own thread so the information doesn't get confusing but for now with Ranger140892's aka Mike aka Scrappy's Dad permission I'll get started here.
You referred to your motor as post 79 460. The D9TE-AB uses a weighted spacer behind the harmonc balancer. Yes I have a D9TE-AB block in my 1978 F250 4wd plow truck. Are you going to put it in your 1977. Nice lookin Truck BTW. This thread if you haven't seen it yet has some useful information you may find helpful including some for Mike although now he's switched to building a stroker he may say it figures.

When speaking about the D9TE-AB block Monsterbaby says
So again welcome Casey and thanks Mike for letting us use your thread for a bit brother.

 

I'm definitely not the torque converter guy. I don't recall any threads, but I wouldn't notice them anyway since I like manual transmissions in everything I can get them in.

I'm also not the big tire guy. I do run taller than stock tires on most vehicles I have, but not much taller, and I hate wide tires. What gear ratio diff's does your truck have? Keep that in mind when choosing tire size and torque converter. I'm always planning future builds. Some of which won't ever happen, but it's fun to plan them. I war game diff ratio's, tire sizes, transmission final ratios, etc. I worked on a good friend's Jeep recently, then took it to a shop to get regeared because he has gigantic 35's on it. Ridiculous for a 3.55 geared Jeep. I had the shop put 4.88's in it. Should be picking it up this week. Anyway, a tool I use a lot is this formula for figuring engine RPM's with tire height and axle gear combo's: 336 x mph x gear ratio / actual tire height. That gives you the RPM at 1:1 final drive. If you've got overdrive, just multiply the sum by the overdrive. And since you're running an automatic transmission, multiply the sum by about 1.05, to allow for torque converter slippage.

Here's an example, actual figures from that Jeep. Originally, 336 x 70 x 3.55 / 34 = 2455 RPM @ 1:1 (4th gear), then multiply by the 5th gear overdrive ratio, 2455 x .78 = 1914 RPM @ 70 MPH. That Jeep was so long legged, that I couldn't get it above 3rd gear driving it to town. Now, when I get it back, this is what it'll be... 336 x 70 x 4.88 / 34 = 3375 RPM in 4th gear, which will put it at 2632 RPM at 70 mph in 5th gear. Just a tad higher than you'd normally want it, but with the added drag from the weight of those giant meats, I think it's perfect. Best thing is that now 1st gear will actually be useable. Before, I couldn't keep it below 15 mph.

 

I'm all for everyone piling into this thread, but Redroad's idea is best. Start a thread on your build, that way you can keep your info organized. We'll be around to mislead and harass you!

 

Hmmm. I think that we need to take on Beach Boys mindset. Remember 409?

 

"I saved my penny's, I saved my dime's"

 

Sanny visited again today. This time he left a Voodoo decal.

 

Nice score. Scrappy gonna be happy Voodoo child

 

I painted the block and oil pan last night. I probably won't paint the new timing cover. Since it's aluminum, it'll match the intake manifold and cylinder heads.

 

Hey Mike, Looking good brother
What water pump you using? and what oil pan is this?

 

Thanks. It was actually a mistake. I meant to paint it "Old Ford Blue". I got about half finished with the first color coat when I said, "OOPS!" Oh well.

That's a new Fox body rear sump oil pan. Oh I hope it clears the stroker crankshaft! I'll most likely use a Ford aluminum water pump. M-8501-C460

 

Your 1971 block was 1966-1973 Ford Corporate Blue 13358. If you want period correct
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/18...-engine-paint/

 

Turns out it is period correct. Scrappy & I just read that in 2021, a Ford big block 502, built in the Barlow, MS plant, with a Lunati roller camshaft, and Trick Flow cylinder heads, only came in Dark Ford Blue.

 

You said you were going for the "Fred Sanford" motif. I get it It is how it sounds in the end. I think you should name it "Voodoo child"

 

I don't think my pastor would appreciate that one bit. But then again, he thinks I'm murderous heathen.