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I picked up a 460 a couple of days ago. It's a 1971 block that came out of a 1974 or '73 Thunderbird, complete with all the front dress. It was running but smoking. The gentleman also had a set of complete doors for my Dent, and a set of D0VE cylinder heads. I bought them also. He gave me a great deal on the haul.
Yesterday, I tore the engine down to short block. Bores are original 4.360", and in great shape. One camshaft lobe was wiped about 50%, and of course the lifter was badly cupped. No signs of other distress. Though I'm not using them, I'll check the original cylinder heads for bad seals and valve guides, just to determine if that was the reason the engine smoked. I've got a few more measurements to record, then the block and heads get cleaned, and hauled to the machine shop. There's nothing wrong with the 400 currently in my truck, but I couldn't resist the opportunity replace it with a 460.
If there's nothing wrong with your 400 now just drive it a little.
I'd take your time and build up the 460 to your specs and when it's done toss the 400 and drop it in. power and longevity who doesn't like that.
That's always been the plan. I did say it's going to the machine shop.
I hope to use the D0VE cylinder heads, but it depends on the price of head work. At a minimum, I want new guides, seals, hardened seats, and new valves. It might end up being smarter to buy a new set of aluminum heads.
Fox Lake or Lykins can work over D0VE heads and get great power out of them. getting your compression where you want it is the biggest thing depending on what fuel you want to buy.
That's always been the plan. I did say it's going to the machine shop.
I hope to use the D0VE cylinder heads, but it depends on the price of head work. At a minimum, I want new guides, seals, hardened seats, and new valves. It might end up being smarter to buy a new set of aluminum heads.
There are many who will argue that aluminum heads will yield more bang for the buck without the risk of getting too close to the water jackets with porting work. There are many good options (AFR, Kaase, Edelbrock, etc.). Edelbrock sells a complete top end kit which includes heads, cam and intake manifold that are engineered to all work together nicely. They also sell an EFI solution for the 460 which complements their aluminum heads.
Fox Lake or Lykins can work over D0VE heads and get great power out of them. getting your compression where you want it is the biggest thing depending on what fuel you want to buy.
I'll definitely look at Fox Lake and Lykins. Though any good cylinder head shop can do what I want done. I don't want any porting done.
I believe I've got a good preliminary plan for components and compression ratio. I'd like to keep it below 10:1, but not under 9.2:1. With those 75cc d0ve heads, I can get 10:1 with 15cc dished, 1.772" compression height pistons (.020" taller than stock), and .060" thick head gaskets. Some of that can change, depending on how much decking the block and heads need. I doubt the block decks need milling. I only found .001" variation when measuring piston to deck clearances. I haven't dug into the heads yet. He told me they had been magnafluxed. They definitely have new valve springs, which I won't use.
I took a few measurements on the short block last night. The pistons are .025" below deck. The dishes measure out at 32cc. I haven't pulled the rotating assembly, but assuming the stock pistons have a compression height of 1.752", that engine made less than 7.6:1 compression. Pathetic!
There are many who will argue that aluminum heads will yield more bang for the buck without the risk of getting too close to the water jackets with porting work. There are many good options (AFR, Kaase, Edelbrock, etc.). Edelbrock sells a complete top end kit which includes heads, cam and intake manifold that are engineered to all work together nicely. They also sell an EFI solution for the 460 which complements their aluminum heads.
If I go with aluminum heads, they'll probably be Edelbrock's 75cc / 292cc heads. I won't buy their top end kit though. I have no use for Kaase cylinder heads.
I just finished pulling the pistons and crankshaft. Everything looks good. Very little bore taper. If I was a bigger risk taker, I'd ball hone the cylinders, install new rings & bearings, and build it.
Sometimes that works but if you plan on keeping it I'd bore it.
Whatever you do I' d highly recommend a custom roller cam from Brent Lykins. Its not that much more money and it's so nice to have just the right cam . he would be an invaluable resource for deciding on your build as well.
Sometimes that works but if you plan on keeping it I'd bore it.
Whatever you do I' d highly recommend a custom roller cam from Brent Lykins. Its not that much more money and it's so nice to have just the right cam . he would be an invaluable resource for deciding on your build as well.
A friend of mine in the Louisville area also suggested I contact Lykins. I sent them an email, giving them specs and what I want out of this engine. Thanks.
Lykins better have some groovy decals, or I'm holding both of you responsible.
I'll definitely look at Fox Lake and Lykins. Though any good cylinder head shop can do what I want done. I don't want any porting done.
Do port the exhaust ports, just knock the humps down the 460 exhaust port is abysmal just try getting your finger through it. That is the single biggest thing you can do for the stock 460 heads.
Do not be scared of running of 10.0:1 or a bit above. I have 460 that was built years ago with D0VE heads and I run about 10.2:1 and run regular 87 with no issues other than some run-on when I have been pushing it when loaded. The D0VE heads have hard enough valve seats that there is no need to replace them with hardened seats unless you are racing or using the heads in a jet boat.
Do port the exhaust ports, just knock the humps down the 460 exhaust port is abysmal just try getting your finger through it. That is the single biggest thing you can do for the stock 460 heads.
Do not be scared of running of 10.0:1 or a bit above. I have 460 that was built years ago with D0VE heads and I run about 10.2:1 and run regular 87 with no issues other than some run-on when I have been pushing it when loaded. The D0VE heads have hard enough valve seats that there is no need to replace them with hardened seats unless you are racing or using the heads in a jet boat.
That's good to know about the exhaust seats. I'm hearing that from others too. I certainly have no plan to romp on this engine. It'll never see 5000 rpm with my butt on the seat.
That's good to know about the exhaust seats. I'm hearing that from others too. I certainly have no plan to romp on this engine. It'll never see 5000 rpm with my butt on the seat.
Regardless knock the humps in the exhaust port, they are a mess and even the roughest of porting knocking down the humps will make huge gains in efficiency.
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