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I got the cylinder heads back today. Joe got these done in a timely manner. They look great. All new stuff: Valve guides, stainless valves, hardened seats, seals, the springs from my Lunati cam package, BBC studs, Manley pushrod guides, and he milled the deck mating surfaces. Combustion chambers are now 73cc. He did a 30, 45, & 60 degree three angle valve job, and he lapped the valves. If anyone in the area needs a good cylinder head shop, check JAMR Cylinder Head Machine Shop, Joe Perise & his son, in Tickfaw, LA.
UPS dropped off the L&L decals today. They're pretty cool. Scrappy is more interested in those huge 1/2" header flanges. She says these headers are heavier than the Hooker long tubes on the 400.
Hurry up and get those puppies on there! I wanna see how they fit!
And then you can mock up the headers! lol
Syke!
No fitment issues between headers and motor mounts. I suspect if there's any fitment tweaking needed, it'll be the passenger side, like the guy at 460 EFI Guy's said.
Are you thinking with these headers there is still a need for motor mount heat shields? It looks to me like there is no longer a need. What say you? Please link Land L header part number. The build is coming along great. Also interested in test stand. Maybe a how to is in order for that.
Are you thinking with these headers there is still a need for motor mount heat shields? It looks to me like there is no longer a need. What say you? Please link Land L header part number. The build is coming along great. Also interested in test stand. Maybe a how to is in order for that.
I don't think there's any need for heat shields. There's a lot of atmosphere between the motor mount bushings and the headers. And headers don't radiate heat like cast iron exhaust manifolds do.
Are you interested in that yellow engine stand, or the engine test stand I'm building? The yellow one is just a Johnny on the spot piece of junk chinese stand. The hand crank worm gear turned to powder, so I gutted the housing, drilled and tapped a hole, and put that big hand screw in there for an indexing stop. I also welded up every folding joint before I hung that beastly 460 block on it. Hence the blue paint.
I am taking photos as I build the test stand. If it doesn't blow up, or cause a vacuum induced black hole that swallows the earth, I'll probably do a build thread on it.
The test stand. I thought your idea for a multi use Ford motors was right on especially those cabuerared era motors.
You need a flux capacitor to prevent the black hole. It's the only way
The test stand. I thought your idea for a multi use Ford motors was right on especially those cabuerared era motors.
You need a flux capacitor to prevent the black hole. It's the only way
Flux capacitors will impede formation of stellar mass black holes. And yes, I know that engine test stands, overfilled oil pans, and bypassed heater cores supposedly can't create a black hole larger than stellar mass, but I like to play it safe. I plan to use a transverse modulator, which is proven to prevent the formation of supermassive black holes. So don't bother preparing a new will and sending it to Elon Musk for his next space launch.
Blue and Black look great together. Class on the rough side
I think so too. After machining, the block will definitely get painted same as the cylinder heads. And I may leave the oil pan black. Probably won't paint the aluminum intake manifold and valve covers.
Go with ARP main studs instead, I prefer them to the bolts, and they're roughly the same cost. Get yourslef a good RV cam with .530- 590 lift and 218-224 duration @.050. That should give those DOVE heads some breathing room and still remain smooth and comfortable on the street. Agree with the roller suggestion above though. Can't go wrong with a good hydraulic roller cam, especially with the oil being sold today without Zinc. It also reduces friction which equates to cooler running and less wear/ longer life.
Your piston depth should be no more than .005", especially if you are running a .060 compression height gasket. Better to add some larger dished pistons for the compression ratio you want than to sink the piston down in the bore. Think Quench height.
Last edited by Mitch Huested; May 19, 2021 at 11:36 PM.
Reason: piston height not addressed
They look great. All new stuff: Valve guides, stainless valves, hardened seats, seals, the springs from my Lunati cam package, BBC studs, Manley pushrod guides, and he milled the deck mating surfaces.
Ranger I hope you didn't pay for all new valves? I see maybe 1 new one on this head?
Go with ARP main studs instead, I prefer them to the bolts, and they're roughly the same cost. Get yourslef a good RV cam with .530- 590 lift and 218-224 duration @.050. That should give those DOVE heads some breathing room and still remain smooth and comfortable on the street. Agree with the roller suggestion above though. Can't go wrong with a good hydraulic roller cam, especially with the oil being sold today without Zinc. It also reduces friction which equates to cooler running and less wear/ longer life.
Your piston depth should be no more than .005", especially if you are running a .060 compression height gasket. Better to add some larger dished pistons for the compression ratio you want than to sink the piston down in the bore. Think Quench height.
Mitch, all that stuff got ordered as soon as I decided the block was good. The pics I posted above are of mock up, and I used the original head bolts for that. Block hasn't been machined yet. Oh, and I used zip-ties as shims instead of laying down head gaskets ! Everything is in except the camshaft itself, which should be along shortly. It's a roller, .559/.559, 211/219 @ .050". The block has a 10.3" deck height, factory pistons were .020" - .023" below deck, so I assumed they were 1.752" compression height pistons. Once I got them out, I measured them at 1.765". I plan to go with 1.772" height pistons. My target compression ratio is 9.3 - 10:1. The final call on piston compression height, piston dish size, and head gasket thickness & bore diameter will be made after the machine shop tells me if & how much much metal needs machining off the decks.
! Everything is in except the camshaft itself, which should be along shortly. It's a roller, .559/.559, 211/219 @ .050". The block has a 10.3" deck height, factory pistons were .020" - .023" below deck, so I assumed they were 1.752" compression height pistons. Once I got them out, I measured them at 1.765". I plan to go with 1.772" height pistons. My target compression ratio is 9.3 - 10:1. The final call on piston compression height, piston dish size, and head gasket thickness & bore diameter will be made after the machine shop tells me if & how much much metal needs machining off the decks.