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Nice. I'll be curious to hear your thoughts. After reading this I figured I had better order something else since my Optilube XPD is starting to run low... I was really wanting to try the Hot Shots EDT so I ordered two 16 oz bottles of it and also pulled the trigger on the two 16 oz bottles of BD FBC...
So, a few questions since I have only been using the "all-in-one" XPD... do you premix the 2 different treatments together in bottles to have ready, or do you add them each individually when filling up? I don't know if I should premix them and have them ready or not...
A bit of warning on the combustion improver in that one company uses "Iron" and it will show up on UOA. Can't help but wonder what it does for the HPFP and the engine internals.
Nice. I'll be curious to hear your thoughts. After reading this I figured I had better order something else since my Optilube XPD is starting to run low... I was really wanting to try the Hot Shots EDT so I ordered two 16 oz bottles of it and also pulled the trigger on the two 16 oz bottles of BD FBC...
So, a few questions since I have only been using the "all-in-one" XPD... do you premix the 2 different treatments together in bottles to have ready, or do you add them each individually when filling up? I don't know if I should premix them and have them ready or not...
I will continue to use the K100D+ for lubricity and other functions. No, I will not premix the two. K100 can be overdosed with no ill effects. What I'm going to do is start keeping track of how much fuel goes in for the percentage of the fuel level on the iDash. You are not supposed to overdose this FBC stuff. So what I will do is once I run my first tank, I'll be dosed for 26 gallons. Then until I figure out what amount of fuel is going in say at 50% level left at fill up time, and if I start trying to fuel up at that level on the iDash, I can get a pretty good idea of how much FBC to add. If I have to estimate, I'll go low as that's what they recommend. My goal here is for lower soot production, which hopefully will result in smaller soot loads which will result in shorter regens. That's why I'm trying this stuff.
Originally Posted by FishOnOne
A bit of warning on the combustion improver in that one company uses "Iron" and it will show up on UOA. Can't help but wonder what it does for the HPFP and the engine internals.
Yes, I realize that Troy, thank you. With that said, and I'm no expert, this is not a new idea. It has been around for awhile. I'm not sold on this stuff just yet. I have to see what results I'm going to get from this.
I found this EPA link. Plus I have seen other articles stating that this is supposed to increase performance of the diesel engine by improving combustion and reduce soot formation.
Ferrocene and its derivatives are antiknock agents used in the fuel for petrol engines. They are safer than previously used tetraethyllead.[59] Petrol additive solutions containing ferrocene can be added to unleaded petrol to enable its use in vintage cars designed to run on leaded petrol.[60] The iron-containing deposits formed from ferrocene can form a conductive coating on spark plug surfaces. Ferrocene polyglycol copolymers, prepared by effecting a polycondensation reaction between a ferrocene derivative and a substituted dihydroxy alcohol, has promise as a component of rocket propellants. These copolymers provide rocket propellants with heat stability, serving as a propellant binder and controlling propellant burn rate.[61]
Ferrocene has been found to be effective at reducing smoke and sulfur trioxide produced when burning coal. The addition by any practical means, impregnating the coal or adding ferrocene to the combustion chamber, can significantly reduce the amount of these undesirable byproducts, even with a small amount of the metal cyclopentadienyl compound.[62]
ABSTRACT: Ferrocene is used as an antiknock additive to replace lead alkyls. The Anti knocking and
soot suppressing property of Ferrocene (Fe(C5H5)2) catalytic action, lightened a method for the manual
coke clean up which increase the effective fuel combustion and life time of the combustion parts of the
engine without effecting the process but energizing the purpose. The metastable Ferrocene nucleate
enables further burnout of the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. This paper presents the
evaluation and positive effect of adding the optimal percentage of ferrocene in the diesel. The performance
of the diesel engine is tested and compared with different blends of ferrocene in the diesel. The
Experimental results show that the addition of the ferrocene optimal percentage to the fuel will enable to
increase the break thermal efficiency, decrease the specific fuel consumption of the engine and pinking
tendency
From all the reading I've done, these particles are nano sized particles. I'm willing to give it a shot as there's a user here that I PM with from time to time, that has very good results with this stuff.
With that said, my HPFP should have blown up by now due to the alcohol in the K100D+. But I've put on 88k miles using it and my truck runs strong. They sell barrels of the stuff to trucking companies across the country, so I doubt it's causing problems. My goal is to help the DPF with the reduction of soot. The fuel I buy here has a B2 to a B5 rating plus I use the K100 for lubricity as well. While I appreciate the concern, I'm going to go for it.
As you may have noticed I'm very skeptical of some additives and aftermarket parts. Having said that I was one of the early guinea pigs of Rev X in the 6.0PSD to try to address the injector stiction that plagued so many 6.0 PSD engines and it actually worked. Plenty who claimed it was snake oil but it really did mask the problem and the ones that were open minded and opened their wallets did benefit from using it.
I don't know if the additive you're going to test has Iron in it or not, but just a friendly/cautious reminder that today's diesel motor oils are trending to reduce metals in the oil (ZDDP) in order to extend DPF life as these metals over time clog the DPF that a regen won't clear out. If your putting metal in the fuel those metals are going into the DPF. Do they get trapped in the DPF and build up over time? Solve one problem... create another?
No I get it. I know you are sceptical and that's fine.
I really know my truck as I keep track of schitt that most don't even bother to, don't want to and don't worry about. From what I gather, it's supposed to combine with the soot and somehow drop the combustion temperature of soot which should in theory reduce the total soot load as the soot should be passively burning (regening) as I drive more so than I have seen. And if that's the case, then the active regens should be shorter due to less soot load and should burn up quicker during an active regen because of the reduced combustion temps with that additive.
I see some passive regens in the EGT4 temps starting at 472. Don't know if K100D+ is doing something or not. I want to see if this will improve the process. Time will tell.
Here's the amounts for 1 gallon through 26 gallons.
maybe @bobcat67 will see this and comment on the good results he has seen with his truck with Better Diesel, which this is a rebranded bottle of.
The shop, Pittsburgh Power, seems like the real deal. They are a big truck diesel shop. I think I'm going to call them and talk to someone on Max Mileage. I'll let you guys know for sure.
Last edited by Overkill2; Apr 6, 2022 at 10:45 AM.
Reason: Add to post
Looks like we know our trucks very well. Just took a few under the hood snap shots about 30 minutes ago along with the mileage. I suspect most people couldn't guess the mileage on my truck.
Mine looks like that under the hood.also Tony. I don't have nearly as many miles as you. Hats off to you!!! I dust mine off every time I wash the truck. If you keep up with it it's not that big of a job. I use a swiffer duster to get into hard places.
Nice engine and engine bay, truck is very clean I'm the guy with good luck with Better Diesel FBC and although they’re using iron in the additive that’s not the same iron found in wearing out bearings and blocks, etc. however a UOA won’t distinguish the differences. Though I believe it to be harmless to engine components and injection systems, as well as millions of miles on over the road engines would agree with that, you’re more than willing to have you’re own opinion. It’s what makes this a somewhat great country. My soot load is always low while using this product and regens are more of a thing the computer tells the truck to do, than an actual necessity.
It's a labor of love. Simple Green is your friend a few times a year.
BTW... In 2 months it will be 10 years old
I wouldn't want the oil that gets sprayed under the hood to get cleaned off. Up here with the salt used during winter, I'd rather have mine a little dirty and corrosion free. Plus it doesn't bother me. But I do have respect for guys like you that keep it so clean under the hood.
Originally Posted by The Bone
Mine looks like that under the hood.also TROY. I don't have nearly as many miles as you. Hats off to you!!! I dust mine off every time I wash the truck. If you keep up with it it's not that big of a job. I use a swiffer duster to get into hard places.
Fixed his name for you, Bone. Kudos to you also. Where I lack in cleanliness, I make up for in maintenance.
Originally Posted by jollyrogr
Do you just spray it down with cleaner and then wash it off?
I was told that as long as you have an engine running while you clean it or spray it off, you'll be good -- to keep out water out of the engine. I did that with our old 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 I6. I bought cheap oven cleaner at the dollar store. Let it soak some but kept the engine running. I was at a drive in car wash with a decent pressure type spray gun. I blasted it with no ill effects.
