FTN's T4/SXE Build/Conversion Thread
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: Henderson, NV
From Wikipedia:
A jet nut,[1] also known as a k-nut,[1][2][3] is a special type of hex locknut that is commonly used in the aerospace and automotive racing industries.[3]
It has a flange on one end of the nut, the hex is smaller than a standard sized hex nut, and it is shorter than a standard hex nut. It achieves its locking action by using an elliptical offset on the un-flanged end of the nut.[4]
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_nut
A jet nut,[1] also known as a k-nut,[1][2][3] is a special type of hex locknut that is commonly used in the aerospace and automotive racing industries.[3]
It has a flange on one end of the nut, the hex is smaller than a standard sized hex nut, and it is shorter than a standard hex nut. It achieves its locking action by using an elliptical offset on the un-flanged end of the nut.[4]
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_nut
FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Leonard, it looks like you have jet nuts for the 4 pedestal holes, the 4 T4 bracket to pedestal holes and 4 for the turbo to T4 bracket, is that right?
Do you plan to upload pictures and update the parts list when you get the studs in?
Using red loctite to secure the studs in place well prior to installing the hardware and jet nuts?
Do you plan to upload pictures and update the parts list when you get the studs in?
Using red loctite to secure the studs in place well prior to installing the hardware and jet nuts?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
It achieves its locking action by using an elliptical offset on the un-flanged end of the nut.[4]
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_nut
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_nut
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
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From: Muskogee, Ok
3/4” is the red or blue cutoff.
But, neither will have their "locking" properties above 300*, unless you use Red 272, which will hold till 450*, but is pretty useless as a locker on the turbo flange, it will hold once the parts cool back below 450* But realistically the truck will be shut off by then, so the road vibrations you are hoping to gaurd against will still be able to loosen normal nuts, any nylocks nut will melt the nylon insert above their own temps too, also depends on which nylock you use, cheapie Chinese or USA made makes a big difference. Now on the other mounting bolts away from that heat level, yeah 300* blue will hold, and come apart on disassembly.
Blue and red, largely misunderstood codes. Pick the right loctite number for the job
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I was stating red to hold the studs in place, not the nuts. The nuts will need to be tightened down on secured studs, which were freely spun in by hand during installation.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
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From: Muskogee, Ok
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Laughing Gas
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From: Idaho
You guys that have done this conversion would know better. Is there any concern on clearance issues getting everything to fit in using studs (having enough space to clear the studs when installing pedestal, turbo, etc? Just something I was thinking about. Wouldn't want to install studs only to find out I don't have enough clearance to fit a piece in there.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
There should not be because the pieces go in separately and there is plenty of room under the turbo for the back pedestal plate studs.
For example, the pedestal plate studs would be installed in the block. Then the flat pedestal plate would be installed. Then the T4 up-pipe assembly studs would be installed in the pedestal plate and the T4 up-pipe assembly would fit over the studs.
Granted, the studs should not be ridiculously long, but long enough for the flange nuts to be 10% on the stud.
For example, the pedestal plate studs would be installed in the block. Then the flat pedestal plate would be installed. Then the T4 up-pipe assembly studs would be installed in the pedestal plate and the T4 up-pipe assembly would fit over the studs.
Granted, the studs should not be ridiculously long, but long enough for the flange nuts to be 10% on the stud.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: WV
You guys that have done this conversion would know better. Is there any concern on clearance issues getting everything to fit in using studs (having enough space to clear the studs when installing pedestal, turbo, etc? Just something I was thinking about. Wouldn't want to install studs only to find out I don't have enough clearance to fit a piece in there.
Plate to engine should be fine. Might need some extra clearance for the fuel line as it runs close to one of the bolts and has to be “adjusted” already.
Plate to pedestal may cause issues when moving the uppipes and such around trying to squeeze the downpipe in.
My opinion is related to the CSD kit.
Edit: Sous and myself posting at the same time. My terminology: I’m calling the “plate” the flat piece that bolts to the engine. The “pedestal” is the part that has the uppipes attached and bolts to the flat plate.
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: Henderson, NV
Let's use CSD's terminology so we're all on the same page.
Pedestal Plate = plate that bolts to the block.
Up Pipe Assembly = T4 flange, up pipes, etc etc.
Crap. It looks like the Up Pipe Assembly to Pedestal Plate bolts are 3/8"-16 instead of M10x1.25.
Screw it. I'm going to use a helicoil and convert it to M10x1.25 since I have them.
Pedestal Plate = plate that bolts to the block.
Up Pipe Assembly = T4 flange, up pipes, etc etc.
Crap. It looks like the Up Pipe Assembly to Pedestal Plate bolts are 3/8"-16 instead of M10x1.25.
Screw it. I'm going to use a helicoil and convert it to M10x1.25 since I have them.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Leonard, good idea to keep the terminology correct, I have edited my post to reflect the correct names,
Regarding the 3/8" vs M10 bolts, could I ask you to do the FTE community a big favor... Find the part number and supplier for the 3/8" studs and jet nuts for your parts list for future use.
Thanks for blazing the trail on a new mounting method, it is good to have choices.
Regarding the 3/8" vs M10 bolts, could I ask you to do the FTE community a big favor... Find the part number and supplier for the 3/8" studs and jet nuts for your parts list for future use.
Thanks for blazing the trail on a new mounting method, it is good to have choices.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
You guys that have done this conversion would know better. Is there any concern on clearance issues getting everything to fit in using studs (having enough space to clear the studs when installing pedestal, turbo, etc? Just something I was thinking about. Wouldn't want to install studs only to find out I don't have enough clearance to fit a piece in there.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2020
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From: NT, See you in the
