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Excellent response ... You didn't get huffy, you just explained your lack of understanding. That's awesome cool!
When these folks say something you do not understand ... STOP, Ask, They will GLADLY explain, They are here because they do know and like not only to pass their knowledge on but help people just like you!
Remember, The only dumb question is the unasked one!
A dumb question to some, is a smart question to others!
Steve, This is a long help thread, it has lots of overwhelming info even for some that have been fixing stuff all their life ... So don't count yourself out, you're hanging in there pretty darn good!
There is a diode that looks exactly like this but is far removed from the bulk of wire in the harness. It's close to my Power Steering pump.
It comes from the fuel relay switch and connects to 10 wires.
- 2 wires (tan) run clear across the front of the engine to the passenger side of the vehicle and connect to a large plug that has two yellow wires coming from it's end. They run to the inertia switch.
- 1 green wire runs to the coil
- 1 green/white stripe wire runs back to the ECM
- 1 brown or black wire/pink stripe runs to the solenoid - there are 4 seperate wires that are attached to it. They are: 1 wire that runs to a resistor, one that runs to the coil, 1 that ones to the fuel relay, and one that runs to the ECM.
- 1 red wire (can't ell if there's a stripe or other coors) runs to ECM
- 1 red wire that runs to the TFI (I have that mounted remotely in a heat sink to get it away from the heat.
- 1 tan wire that appears to run back to the ECM
- 1 yellow wire that runs to the solenoid.
- 1 wire that runs to the oil temp sensor.
Is your posting intended as an example of a diode OR is this the diode all are referring to?
There is presently no diode connected to any wire that run to the IAC.
Originally Posted by subford
A salvage yard might be your best bet to get the diode.
Just for grins I just went a took a photo of a 1986 Ford Diode, this is what it looks like:
It is an example of the diode Ford used in 1985. The one in the photos is the diode around the IAC in the 1986 Ford that I took the photo of.
I was thinking the two wires you have at that point is just a junction and is a source for the other red wire but it may have another source also before it gets back to the ECM Power relay.
I have read that the later models (not sure when it started) had the diode in the connector to the IAC. That's not the case for my Ford.
Thanks for the example. I am following the advice of several here: I will do the test for the diode as recommended by NotEnoughTrucks2014 (although I am 100% certain it is not there), I will follow ctubutus's information and advice in tracking the correct wires to the correct position on the ECM connector (already done but will do again), and will get assistance from Vincent when I get the diode so that I connect it correctly.
Again, the amount of useful knowledge offered me is invaluable. I fully realize that if I were to have to pay for that at a dealership, it'd cost me a boatload. So I do not take the help I get here lightly.
Steve
Originally Posted by subford
It is an example of the diode Ford used in 1985.
But I was thinking the diode for the IAC coil was inside the IAC.
I was also thinking the two wires you have at that point is just a junction and is a source for the other red wire but it may have another source also before it gets back to the ECM Power relay.
Again, the amount of useful knowledge offered me is invaluable. I fully realize that if I were to have to pay for that at a dealership, it'd cost me a boatload. So I do not take the help I get here lightly.
When you say "nothing" on pin 48 & 46, do you mean all Zeros? (000.0) or (1)?
Steve, did you ever answer my question about the resistance readings on pins 46 & 48. What were the readings? "nothing" is not a result of a resistance check unless you meant no resistance, but your meter would have had a reading for these pins.
Reference; Thread # 177
Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 17, 2016 at 12:03 PM.
Reason: Adding text
One thing on those to take a long hard look at, near the battery negative post, attached to it, is a plug with a black/light green wire (or pair) that grounds the entire EEC system. It is a common issue on these as the connector is not a weather proof one and any extra resistance will drive the EEC crazy.
Steve, I know you looked at this wire earlier, but did you see a connector on that wire? Clean it? (Bro-Dave's connector is about 10" from the Neg. Battery Terminal)
I actually got rid of the connector and replaced it. It appears to be a good, solid ground.
So, if I wanted to check it for continuity, I would disconnect it from the battery, use the paper clip method and put that into the correct slot in the ECM connector, put the positive lead at the other end and ground the negative lead, Correct?
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Steve, I know you looked at this wire earlier, but did you see a connector on that wire? Clean it? (Bro-Dave's connector is about 10" from the Neg. Battery Terminal)