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I not even thinking of installing it. I am concerned that by doing so, I could cause some damage to other components. What do you think? Should I try it out?
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Since you mentioned it, yeah, you should have consulted the team of lads here trying to help you before spending money.
But, like I said, all the "S1B" versions I’ve seen were "GS1", so we'll hope for the best.
Post the label when you receive it. Compare the pin configuration to your other computer before you install.
If it is the right one, clean the pins, it’s been sitting on a shelf for years. You can re-grease after your troubleshooting is completed. V~
I not even thinking of installing it. I am concerned that by doing so, I could cause some damage to other components. What do you think? Should I try it out?
If the numbers are right, I would absolutely try it......
Actually, I think it's the sensors and such that fry the computers, not the other way around.
Here's why I'm not in favor of having two threads going on the same topic: On just this one thread I keep seeing reference to the test connector having a "1" on it when it should have 5 volts. If we aren't getting codes shouldn't this be run to ground? It doesn't seem correct and yet there seems to be no answer.
I think the voltage would depend on the impedance of the meter. As that is just an input to a chip.
I am sorry to tell you that I do not understand the schematic you sent. So if you can explain it in terms that a neophyte will understand, I will appreciate it.
Especially helpful will be as explanation as to what steps I am to take, if you have the time.
Thanks!!
Originally Posted by subford
I think the voltage would depend on the impedance of the meter. As that is just an input to a chip.
By the way, I think cleaning the connectors and using the deelectric grease on all connections did the trick with regard to the fuel pump issues. Started right up this morning. It didn't rain last night but it is very humid. Typically, it would have the problem we discussed with high humidity as well. Not today!
Originally Posted by vjsimone
If the numbers are right, I would absolutely try it......
Actually, I think it's the sensors and such that fry the computers, not the other way around.
The transmissions in 1985 are not computer controlled, the only real difference between auto and manual is the idle control program. Considering the sheer number of computer changes Ford went through that year and a half and the fact that a number of things in the design were changed in 1987, I would imagine any one for an automatic trans will work.
The sticker is so damaged and the printing on it so faded that it can't be read. It looks like 1/86, but I can't really see it clearly, even with a magnifying glass.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
No interaction between the computer and transmission in 1985.
What is the build date of you truck? Sticker inside you drivers door frame.
I'm confused. Are you saying the numbers at the end (GS1) aren't significant enough to cause it not to work correctly?
Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
The transmissions in 1985 are not computer controlled, the only real difference between auto and manual is the idle control program. Considering the sheer number of computer changes Ford went through that year and a half and the fact that a number of things in the design were changed in 1987, I would imagine any one for an automatic trans will work.
I am sorry to tell you that I do not understand the schematic you sent. So if you can explain it in terms that a neophyte will understand, I will appreciate it.
Especially helpful will be as explanation as to what steps I am to take, if you have the time.
Thanks!!
What I am saying is if your meter is loading the STI circuit you may only get 1 volt and another meter that dose not load the circuit much at all may read 5 volts.
The diagram just shows the inside of the computer that the STI input wire goes to a buffer chip and then on to the main computer processor.
When the STI2 pin HS:I 3 goes low (grounds) the computer processor will start its self-test program when the computer gets power on on its VPWR wire at pins 37 & 57.
No I was not saying you had something to do here. Just giving why you might only have 1 volt at the STI wire.
The sticker is so damaged and the printing on it so faded that it can't be read. It looks like 1/86, but I can't really see it clearly, even with a magnifying glass.
OK, I understand. But try again. Look closer.
Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 15, 2016 at 07:32 AM.
Reason: Adding text
By the way, I think cleaning the connectors and using the deelectric grease on all connections did the trick with regard to the fuel pump issues. Started right up this morning. It didn't rain last night but it is very humid. Typically, it would have the problem we discussed with high humidity as well. Not today!
What I am saying is if your meter is loading the STI circuit you may only get 1 volt and another meter that dose not load the circuit much at all may read 5 volts.
The diagram just shows the inside of the computer that the STI input wire goes to a buffer chip and then on to the main computer processor.
When the STI2 pin HS:I 3 goes low (grounds) the computer processor will start its self-test program when the computer gets power on on its VPWR wire at pins 37 & 57.
No I was not saying you had something to do here. Just giving why you might only have 1 volt at the STI wire.
This is the discussion I thought we need to have - why he's getting "1" instead of 5 volts. I haven't seen a meter in a long, long while with such low impedance on the input that it would do that.
Sqauvry - What meter are you using? Can you post a close-up picture of it?
Now that the truck seems to be running correctly, the lack of codes is the only problem - right? So why not troubleshoot that rather than continue to buy computers?
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