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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:39 AM
  #406  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Don't have a vacuum gauge (yet).
Your engine must be fully warmed up when performing the KOER Self-Test.

EGR does not operate if engine is cold, or during Idle, and I don't think during WOT, Wide Open Throttle events, testing or on the road.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:42 AM
  #407  
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Engine was warm but I will run test again.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Your engine must be fully warmed up when performing the KOER Self-Test.

EGR does not operate if engine is cold, or during Idle, and I don't think during WOT, Wide Open Throttle events, testing or on the road.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:44 AM
  #408  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
The O2 sensor connector (single wire has a very short wire that runs to a larger, four-pronged connector. That connects to the female connector (also 4 prongs). It seems the connection inside the female connector is faulty. If I hold the voltmeter probe tight inside the female (that sounds like fun) I get a .5 reading. If I loosen it up just the slightest or don't hold it extremely tight, I get a 1. I suspect the female is not making good contact with the male (sound like my marriage sometimes).

Can I pull the single wire and female connector out of the larger connector, or must I replace the whole connector?
I am not familiar with that connector. Try to clean it well.
0.5 ohm is not bad, but you need that on the O2 side of the connector.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:47 AM
  #409  
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Yes. It's well cleaned and filled with deelectric. Connection made! Yeah, man!!! Now I have to go get an O2 sensor. I'll check advanced auto or auto zone.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
I am not familiar with that connector. Try to clean it well.
0.5 ohm is not bad, but you need that on the O2 side of the connector.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:59 AM
  #410  
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Originally Posted by subford
The one I shared seems to be for a 1986 or newer. It looks like the 1985 and 1986 computers are much different.
Do you have one for the 1985 computer?
Other than what has been posted, I've not seen any internal schematics. If you could email what you have fit the Bullnose trucks to janeyandgary@gmail.com I'll add them to my web site.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 09:59 AM
  #411  
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Hey, Steve, here's an idea that might make this stuff easier & faster... do you have the ability to capture & post pictures?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:01 AM
  #412  
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I don't own a camera and my wife's works sporadically. I can use her iPad when she lets me.

What pics are you wanting?

Originally Posted by ctubutis
Hey, Steve, here's an idea that might make this stuff easier & faster... do you have the ability to capture & post pictures?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #413  
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I will do another KOER test.

After, if I still get a 34 reading, I'll try to do some of the vacuum checks you suggested. I'll have to by a gauge but I don't imagine they're too expensive.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Your engine must be fully warmed up when performing the KOER Self-Test.

EGR does not operate if engine is cold, or during Idle, and I don't think during WOT, Wide Open Throttle events, testing or on the road.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #414  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Yes. It's well cleaned and filled with deelectric. Connection made! Yeah, man!!! Now I have to go get an O2 sensor. I'll check advanced auto or auto zone.
Some of those places do not have an O2 Sensor with a connector on it. Rock Auto carries an O2 with connector attached.

You can attach your old O2 connector & wire to the new O2, but unless you use an uncoated barrel crimp and solder the crimp, then it won't last long before corrosion set in.

You can cut the plastic off of a plastic barrel crimp connection and solder that.
NAPA carries 4 sizes of bare barrel crimp connectors.

You have any soldering skills?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:12 AM
  #415  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Other than what has been posted, I've not seen any internal schematics. If you could email what you have fit the Bullnose trucks to janeyandgary@gmail.com I'll add them to my web site.
The only one I have is the one that has been floating around on the internet for years. I think it may be of a A9P computer.
I have tried to clean it up some to make the numbers more readable but have not done doing that yet.
I am sure you must have already seen it on line but will send you both. The one I have not touched one and the one that I have touched up.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:27 AM
  #416  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Yes. It's well cleaned and filled with deelectric. Connection made! Yeah, man!!! Now I have to go get an O2 sensor. I'll check advanced auto or auto zone.
When you get the chance;;;

You still need to check continuity between your "Y" pipe and Body ground.

Rx200, one test lead on the "Y" pipe and the other on the Body.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 18, 2016 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Adding text
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #417  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
What pics are you wanting?
I'm not looking for anything specifically but, in general, it might help guys here more quickly see exactly what you're using a lot of text to describe, connectors & wire colors & such.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:50 AM
  #418  
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Yes, I can solder. I just did a quick fix until I get a new sensor. Wire is attached using a crimp and is attached well for the time being.

Ran KOER test with engine at operating temp - temp gauge in the middle. Pulled 41 and 34. Ran it three times in all. Same codes.

Several things in the works. Waiting for diode for the IAC. Waiting the for computer, although I suspect I don't need it. Waiting for new O2 sensor. I ordered one with an extra long pig-tail. The reason: I have headers and am mounting the O2 sensor before the cat converter. Unfortunately, the exhaust from the driver side is not captured in the O2 sensor because I mounted the sensor just before the Y tube that connects both exhaust to the cat. Dumb move, I know.



Originally Posted by vjsimone
Some of those places do not have an O2 Sensor with a connector on it. Rock Auto carries an O2 with connector attached.

You can attach your old O2 connector & wire to the new O2, but unless you use an uncoated barrel crimp and solder the crimp, then it won't last long before corrosion set in.

You can cut the plastic off of a plastic barrel crimp connection and solder that.
NAPA carries 4 sizes of bare barrel crimp connectors.

You have any soldering skills?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:54 AM
  #419  
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So let me run through this with you.

I use the jumper between ground and pin 29.

And I apply the voltmeter to the y pipe (?) and the other lead to the frame or body.

Oh - the O2 sensor is connected to the pipe and therefore forms a ground. Right?



Originally Posted by vjsimone
When you get the chance;;;

You still need to check continuity between your "Y" pipe and Body ground.

Rx200, one test lead on the "Y" pipe and the other on the Body.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #420  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Yes, I can solder. I just did a quick fix until I get a new sensor. Wire is attached using a crimp and is attached well for the time being.

Ran KOER test with engine at operating temp - temp gauge in the middle. Pulled 41 and 34. Ran it three times in all. Same codes.

Several things in the works. Waiting for diode for the IAC. Waiting the for computer, although I suspect I don't need it. Waiting for new O2 sensor. I ordered one with an extra long pig-tail. The reason: I have headers and am mounting the O2 sensor before the cat converter. Unfortunately, the exhaust from the driver side is not captured in the O2 sensor because I mounted the sensor just before the Y tube that connects both exhaust to the cat. Dumb move, I know.
Worth to replacing the O2 sensor at this point.

Check your O2 pipe location to body ground continuity when you get the chance.

The reason the Auto Industry moved from 1 wire to 2 wire O2 sensors was due to the poor ground from the exhaust system. The second wire was a ground wire. Same issue with A/C compessors, first ones were 1 wire, then they added a ground wire.
 
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