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1. The wire connecting directly to the O2 sensor was disconnected from the top. I will have to replace the sensor. 2. I then connected to the O2 sensor connector (ECM side) to check continuity. Got a 1. I checked it several times to ensure correct pin and ground. Crap!
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Well that would check the ground between the base and the pipe, but not check the wire to the ECA.
Anytime you remove the ECA connector, it is a good idea to disconnect one side of the Battery, for continuity checks, I would remove the Pos batt terminal.
1. The wire connecting directly to the O2 sensor was disconnected from the top. I will have to replace the sensor. 2. I then connected to the O2 sensor connector (ECM side) to check continuity. Got a 1. I checked it several times to ensure correct pin and ground. Crap!
Yeah, so you can work on solving that lack of continuity on that wire.
You will need to monitor the vacuum reading at your EGR vacuum connection, during the KOER Self-Test. (Put a vacuum "T" in near the ERG.) Take notes.
During the test the ECA turns on the EGR Solenoid to allow vacuum to flow and open the EGR. The ECA expects to see a drop in RPM due to the exhaust gas mixing with the intake gas. If the EGR does not open, this Idle drop does not happen, so a Code 34 is reported.
Your EGR may not be opening during Self-Test.
Your engine must be fully warmed up when performing the KOER Self-Test.
Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 18, 2016 at 09:34 AM.
Reason: Adding text
You will need to monitor the vacuum reading at your EGR vacuum connection, during the KOER Self-Test. (Put a vacuum "T" in near the ERG.) Take notes.
During the test the ECA turns on the EGR Solenoid to allow vacuum to flow and open the EGR. The ECA expects to see a drop in RPM due to the exhaust gas mixing with the intake gas. If the EGR does not open, this Idle drop does not happen, so a Code 34 is reported.
The O2 sensor connector (single wire has a very short wire that runs to a larger, four-pronged connector. That connects to the female connector (also 4 prongs). It seems the connection inside the female connector is faulty. If I hold the voltmeter probe tight inside the female (that sounds like fun) I get a .5 reading. If I loosen it up just the slightest or don't hold it extremely tight, I get a 1. I suspect the female is not making good contact with the male (sound like my marriage sometimes).
Can I pull the single wire and female connector out of the larger connector, or must I replace the whole connector?