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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #436  
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Thanks!! Will let you know.

With regard to splicing wire, I always wrap my splices tightly in 3M Temflex 2155 Rubber Splicing Tape, then wrap them in black vinyl tape. The Temflex insulates against water. I use this for my ham operations as coax cables are not protected against UV and water. The Temflex takes care of both. I generally use it on my splices also. But I understand the point about soldering. That is the best ensurer against breaks in the wire.


Originally Posted by vjsimone
forget pin 29..........

I am looking for you to prove a good ground between your exhaust pipe (near your O2) and your truck body.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #437  
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Got a BIG FAT nothing (1).

Originally Posted by vjsimone
No.... Just check between the pipe that the O2 screws into, pos test lead, and the vehicle body, anywhere with Neg test lead. Rx200.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:23 PM
  #438  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Thanks!! Will let you know.

With regard to splicing wire, I always wrap my splices tightly in 3M Temflex 2155 Rubber Splicing Tape, then wrap them in black vinyl tape. The Temflex insulates against water. I use this for my ham operations as coax cables are not protected against UV and water. The Temflex takes care of both. I generally use it on my splices also. But I understand the point about soldering. That is the best ensurer against breaks in the wire.
Have you soldered a PL259 on RG8? (That was from memory, by the way! )
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:25 PM
  #439  
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I've got an extra battery cable (new) laying around here. Can I use that as a ground strap?

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Vehicles need to have a good ground connections. That’s why ground straps are added between the neg. batt. and the engine and the body. These connections get corroded and removed.

Your truck should have one from the back of the engine to the body, this one seems to disappear when engines are swapped or rebuilt.

Auto parts sells these straps for $6, or you can make them, but if you make them they must be soldered to last.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:25 PM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
I doubt you will find this style, unless you go to a junk yard. I know where one is, if you want to go that route, but for now I would go with what has been recommended.

I agree with Gary 100%, you need to solder all connections eventually.
Look at the photo, note the red wire is connected to the Negitive side/Striped side of the Diode. Your new diode will most likely have a stripe on one end, that's the end that will connect to your red wire that's capped off.

The other side of the diode will have to tap into the white wire. If you have any slack on the black wire connected to the white via your yellow crimp connection, I would cut out the yellow connector and splice and solder the diode, white & black wire together. Crimp then solder.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:27 PM
  #441  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
I've got an extra battery cable (new) laying around here. Can I use that as a ground strap?
Yes, those are great, just clean the contact points well.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:28 PM
  #442  
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Good memory!! Yes, I have!!!

I've been not using my radio much these days. Too much going on with my wood turning and this truck. When my health issues act up I sit by my radio and chatter a bit.

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Have you soldered a PL259 on RG8? (That was from memory, by the way! )
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:30 PM
  #443  
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This is tremendous help, Vincent! I'll let you know how it turns out!!!

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Look at the photo, note the red wire is connected to the Negitive side/Striped side of the Diode. Your new diode will most likely have a stripe on one end, that's the end that will connect to your red wire that's capped off.

The other side of the diode will have to tap into the white wire. If you have any slack on the black wire connected to the white via your yellow crimp connection, I would cut out the yellow connector and splice and solder the diode, white & black wire together. Crimp then solder.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:34 PM
  #444  
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sgauvry,
Did you not say at one point you had one of those diodes down by the PS pump?
You should only have one diode under the hood.
So if this is what you said that should be the diode for the IAC solenoid coil.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:40 PM
  #445  
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Originally Posted by subford
sgauvry,
Did you not say at one point you had one of those diodes down by the PS pump?
You should only have one diode under the hood.
So if this is what you said that should be the diode for the IAC solenoid coil.
subford, There are about 3 of these Diodes on my 85', I have the one near the P/S pump as well, and 5-6 resistors.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 18, 2016 at 02:57 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #446  
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Well - I already have one battery cable connected to the holder of the thermactor air pump. That holder is mounted to the engine and I have the cable run from that to the frame. Should I add the other and connect it to the engine and firewall?

.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yes, those are great, just clean the contact points well.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 12:48 PM
  #447  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Well - I already have one battery cable connected to the holder of the thermactor air pump. That holder is mounted to the engine and I have the cable run from that to the frame. Should I add the other and connect it to the engine and firewall?

.
Well, since you don't seem to have a good ground to your O2, I would connect a ground strap to the closest nut or bolt to the O2, and the truck body.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 02:20 PM
  #448  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
For some reason they all posted upside down. Sorry!
No apologies needed, It's Apples fault, not yours, they mucked up (or took their own road) the metadata ... Just turn the Apple device upside down to shoot pics, they'll be upside down to the mucked up Apples and right side up to the rest of the world.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:05 PM
  #449  
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OK. I'm working on grounds. Harder that I thought it would be. I want to keep working on them, clean the grounds that are present and see what happens. I also added a ground to the engine block and have it connected to the hood hinges on the firewall. The cable connectors have been filed as well as the hood hinge where it will connect. I do get a reading off the pipe near the O2 sensor, but it's all over the place. Is it supposed to be that way?

The new computer arrived. Low and behold, it is a GS1. Whew! I installed it. Seems ok, but I want to take the truck for a run before I make any judgement. Possibly later this evening.

The information you provided regarding the IAC is invaluable to me. However, I do have a question. There are three wires that run from the ECM that connect to the IAC. One is grey, but I had to splice that and what you see in the pic is a black wire that runs to the white wire to the connector. That one I know is where it needs to be. However, I have two red wires and I do not know which one runs to the diode and which one directly to the IAC. If you give me the pin number of the one that runs to the diode or to the IAC, I can do the rest. Make sense?

Wish I could meet you guys for a beer sometime.

Thanks!!

Steve




Originally Posted by vjsimone
Well, since you don't seem to have a good ground to your O2, I would connect a ground strap to the closest nut or bolt to the O2, and the truck body.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:27 PM
  #450  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
OK. I'm working on grounds. Harder that I thought it would be. I want to keep working on them, clean the grounds that are present and see what happens. I also added a ground to the engine block and have it connected to the hood hinges on the firewall. The cable connectors have been filed as well as the hood hinge where it will connect. I do get a reading off the pipe near the O2 sensor, but it's all over the place. Is it supposed to be that way?

The new computer arrived. Low and behold, it is a GS1. Whew! I installed it. Seems ok, but I want to take the truck for a run before I make any judgement. Possibly later this evening.

The information you provided regarding the IAC is invaluable to me. However, I do have a question. There are three wires that run from the ECM that connect to the IAC. One is grey, but I had to splice that and what you see in the pic is a black wire that runs to the white wire to the connector. That one I know is where it needs to be. However, I have two red wires and I do not know which one runs to the diode and which one directly to the IAC. If you give me the pin number of the one that runs to the diode or to the IAC, I can do the rest. Make sense?

Wish I could meet you guys for a beer sometime.

Thanks!!

Steve
You never know, it's a small world....

You should get a steady reading, something just above 0.2 ohms. Dig your leads in well to be sure you have good contact.

I highly recommend you attach a ground strap on the closest nut or bolt to the O2. This is why thousands of good O2's were replaced, and why the industry added ground wires to the sensor, they added 2 before it was resolved.

Your junkyard ECA may run rough for the first 10 miles, you will have to re-do your Idle setting. But, do that when you get back from your run.

Does not matter what red IAC wire you use, they both go to the same place.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 18, 2016 at 11:20 PM. Reason: Correcting text
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