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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

External fuel pump

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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:30 AM
  #181  
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Thanks, Gary. That makes sense as I only have this problem when there's rain and/or dampness. Will that require a harness replacement? I was going to order one but changes my mind.

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Vic - Pin 46 looks to have capacitance on it by going to 41 and then 0. That suggests there may be water in the harness.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:31 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
When you say "nothing" on pin 48 & 46, do you mean all Zeros? (000.0) or (1)?
You should have little to no resistance on these wires, and your testing proves this. 40 ohms could come from your test ground connection or corrosion in the harness connectors somewhere in the path, But this is not enough to block signals from the ECA. So it would seem your computers/ECAs are not communicating with the test connector.

Put it back together, start your engine, and check dc voltage on the STI self-test connector (100), this is the single wire (separate wire) next to the test connector. Connect Pos meter lead to STI self-test connector (100), Neg lead to the Neg battery terminal. Note voltage, should be +5 volts dc.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 17, 2016 at 12:44 PM. Reason: Modify text
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:36 AM
  #183  
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Unfortunately, it rained heavy last night. I'm having that starting issue with the external fuel pump running continuously. If I can get it to run normally, which at this point I can't even though it's at operating temp, I will follow through with the test. Presently, I'm stinking up the neighborhood.

Thanks for your help!

Originally Posted by vjsimone
I have to head out soon, but I suspect you wire harness is fine. You should have little to no resistance on these wires, and your testing proves this. 40 ohms could come from your test ground connection or corrosion in the harness connectors somewhere in the path, But this is not enough to block signals from the ECA. So it would seem your computers/ECAs are not communicating with the test connector.

Put it back together, start your engine, and check dc voltage on the STI self-test connector (100), this is the single wire (separate wire) next to the test connector. Connect Pos meter lead to STI self-test connector (100), Neg lead to the Neg battery terminal. Note voltage, should be +5 volts dc.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:41 AM
  #184  
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OK. Got it running. Nothing but a 1.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
I have to head out soon, but I suspect you wire harness is fine. You should have little to no resistance on these wires, and your testing proves this. 40 ohms could come from your test ground connection or corrosion in the harness connectors somewhere in the path, But this is not enough to block signals from the ECA. So it would seem your computers/ECAs are not communicating with the test connector.

Put it back together, start your engine, and check dc voltage on the STI self-test connector (100), this is the single wire (separate wire) next to the test connector. Connect Pos meter lead to STI self-test connector (100), Neg lead to the Neg battery terminal. Note voltage, should be +5 volts dc.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:42 AM
  #185  
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I suggest you start opening up connectors, clean them well (contact cleaner), then add some dielectric grease to each connector. Look for water traces.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:44 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
OK. Got it running. Nothing but a 1.
1 vdc on the STI connector?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:45 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
On the overlays, I have a number that I scanned and a gentleman on eBay who I bought some from sent me. He is trying to, just as we are document this stuff before it vanishes completely.

List of mine, 1B, 4A, 5, 5A, 6, 9, 9A, 10A, 10C, 10D, 11, 17A, 20, 21, 24
I have not seen the ones with the letters after the number. If you have photos of those I would like to have them.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:46 AM
  #188  
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Yes. Seems that is not working, which explains why I can't pull codes.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
1 vdc on the STI connector?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:46 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
1 vdc on the STI connector?
Strange. Very strange. Even leaving the meter on resistance doesn't explain it.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:50 AM
  #190  
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I'm off to Advanced Auto to get some more cleaner. I'll do what you suggested and get back to you.

Thanks!!


Originally Posted by vjsimone
I suggest you start opening up connectors, clean them well (contact cleaner), then add some dielectric grease to each connector. Look for water traces.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:54 AM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Yes. Seems that is not working, which explains why I can't pull codes.
Re-check that voltage measurement.

Mine is 5vdc, and grounding this I believe initiates the self-test.

If you don't have 5vdc, and the wire has no resistance, I would have to suspect the computer version you acquired does not match the original version.

Still need an answer to your resistance measurements ??
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 08:15 AM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Re-check that voltage measurement.

Mine is 5vdc, and grounding this I believe initiates the self-test.

If you don't have 5vdc, and the wire has no resistance, I would have to suspect the computer version you acquired does not match the original version.

Still need an answer to your resistance measurements ??
Oh, yeah, should have had you do this earlier; Disconnect battery. Disconnect your computer connection. Back to resistance mode; Neg. meter lead to the Neg. battery terminal. Check resistance on each self-test connector under the hood. Note all 4 readings.

STI - (seperate connector) -

STO - (second connector from the left on the bottom row) -
SIG RTN - (top right) -

Fuel Pump - (bottom all the way to the right) -

Also be advised that disconnecting your battery will cause an unstable idle on the next start-up.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 14, 2016 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Adding text
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 08:25 AM
  #193  
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Wait, hold that as I did the test wrong. I though you wanted all four on the bottom. Hold on.

ECM and Battery Disconnected -

All 4 connections on the self-test connector register a 1.


Originally Posted by vjsimone
Oh, yeah, should have had you do this earlier; Disconnect your computer connection. Back to resistance mode; Neg. meter lead to the Neg. battery terminal. Check resistance on each self-test connector under the hood. Note all 4 readings.

STI - (seperate connector) -

STO - (second connector from the left on the bottom row) -
SIG RTN - (top right) -

Fuel Pump - (bottom all the way to the right) -
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 08:29 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Wait, hold that as I did the test wrong. I though you wanted all four on the bottom. Hold on.

ECM and Battery Disconnected -

All 4 connections on the self-test connector register a 1.
Ok, thats good, no shorts to ground. Providing you disconnected the Pos battery cable, and not the Negitive cable.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 14, 2016 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Editing
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 08:31 AM
  #195  
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Still all 1.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Oh, yeah, should have had you do this earlier; Disconnect battery. Disconnect your computer connection. Back to resistance mode; Neg. meter lead to the Neg. battery terminal. Check resistance on each self-test connector under the hood. Note all 4 readings.

STI - (seperate connector) -

STO - (second connector from the left on the bottom row) -
SIG RTN - (top right) -

Fuel Pump - (bottom all the way to the right) -

Also be advised that disconnecting your battery will cause an unstable idle on the next start-up.
 
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