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The first is a look at the engine.
The second is a look at the IAC. The third wire has been disconnected and is capped with a grey cap.
The third is a pic of the remote mounting in heat sink of the TFI module.
The 4th is the EGR setup. The shows the white O2 Connector and to it's right, the larger connector.
Originally Posted by ctubutis
I'm not looking for anything specifically but, in general, it might help guys here more quickly see exactly what you're using a lot of text to describe, connectors & wire colors & such.
For some reason they all posted upside down. Sorry!
Originally Posted by sgauvry
PICS
The first is a look at the engine.
The second is a look at the IAC. The third wire has been disconnected and is capped with a grey cap.
The third is a pic of the remote mounting in heat sink of the TFI module.
The 4th is the EGR setup. The shows the white O2 Connector and to it's right, the larger connector.
No.... Just check between the pipe that the O2 screws into, pos test lead, and the vehicle body, anywhere with Neg test lead. Rx200.
Vehicles need to have a good ground connections. That’s why ground straps are added between the neg. batt. and the engine and the body. These connections get corroded and removed.
Your truck should have one from the back of the engine to the body, this one seems to disappear when engines are swapped or rebuilt.
Auto parts sells these straps for $6, or you can make them, but if you make them they must be soldered to last.
Only marginally better. Crimps with a garden-variety crimp/strip/cut tool are frequently less than well formed and the wire can often be pulled out. Plus, there's no protection from the environment.
For wire-to-wire connections I solder them if they are smaller than about 6 gauge. For connections involving a terminal I solder smaller wires, like up to 6 gauge, after crimping the terminal on with a ratcheting crimper. And for battery cables I have a 16 ton hydraulic crimper. But in all cases I cover the joint with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. That ensures the connection is well protected from the environment.
I use butt crimps with heat shrink material as you can see in the photo (yellow) If I hear you correctly, you're saying these don't really do the job? Right?
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Only marginally better. Crimps with a garden-variety crimp/strip/cut tool are frequently less than well formed and the wire can often be pulled out. Plus, there's no protection from the environment.
For wire-to-wire connections I solder them if they are smaller than about 6 gauge. For connections involving a terminal I solder smaller wires, like up to 6 gauge, after crimping the terminal on with a ratcheting crimper. And for battery cables I have a 16 ton hydraulic crimper. But in all cases I cover the joint with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. That ensures the connection is well protected from the environment.
OK. What I ordered doesn't look like that, but I suppose it doesn't have to as long as it's a diode in acceptable range. Right?
I doubt you will find this style, unless you go to a junk yard. I know where one is, if you want to go that route, but for now I would go with what has been recommended.
I agree with Gary 100%, you need to solder all connections eventually.
I use butt crimps with heat shrink material as you can see in the photo (yellow) If I hear you correctly, you're saying these don't really do the job? Right?
Yes and no. The factory crimped terminals on, so it is possible to get a good crimped connection. But, they used crimpers that apply far more pressure and have a much better profile than the garden-variety crimpers do. Using the latter I've been able to pull the wire out on many crimps, and that means the crimp isn't even close to being good. A good crimp is stronger than the wire and cannot be pulled out.
As for heat shrink tubing, there are at least two varieties of it - with and without adhesive. Without the adhesive the covering isn't waterproof, but with it the connection is well protected. Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Swordfish-612...+shrink+tubing
I am looking for you to prove a good ground between your exhaust pipe (near your O2) and your truck body.
Grab your meter, crawl under your truck, select Rx200 ohm, poke the red test lead into the body of your truck, poke the black test lead into the pipe where the O2 screws in, record the reading.
