You have co workers that would let you stay sleeping
Back then they would not, they would push you off the chair on to the floor than let you stay sleeping

In my department, HVAC that ran 24/7, we could not nap as most of the time there was only one person on shift even during lunch if we had 2 people because of the 2 emergency gen set we were in charge of.
We also had all the medical gases thru out the hospital and the fire alarm / in house fire dept.
It was a wonder we could even sleep when we got home
Dave ----

 

I have been waiting for a part to be made & shipped from the west cost.
Should have been here beginning of the month, they said they would email when it shipped, no email yet.
I have been thinking of calling but I understand why with what is going on and not really needing the part at this time.
Dave ----

 

I think I have too many ongoing projects, I can't keep up! I posted up about my front & rear bumpers for the 83 F-100. Now I'm working on the trailer hitch. Meanwhile, last month I ordered new wheels for my 66 Mustang. They took my order & then sent me a message saying they are on back order until May 2. So I have to wait a little longer. I've only ever had stock wheels & hubcaps so I'm excited to add a little bling to it. I got new bumpers for my 69 F-100, I just dropped the front bumper & push bar off at the powder coaters to be done in white. The rear is silver painted and I'll probably just leave it that way for now. Then on the 57 Studebaker, I have a fuel gauge that does not work. Previous owner said she brought it to 2 different shops and neither one could fix it. I'm assuming a new gauge and a new sending unit would fix that, either one or the other must be flaky. I'd like to add a tach at the same time, but I can't decide whether to just get a gauge kit or buy one individual gauge that would look "pretty close" to matching the originals. Apparently, from the Studebaker forum on facebook, the originals were made by Stewart Warner. Also on a side note, Sherry complained that the engine bay needs to look better, so that's something I can tackle without spending much money. Clean everything up and put some fresh paint here and there I bet it will really stand out.



Styled Alloy Wheels, 15x7. Upgrade from my 14 inch steel wheels!

This photo is several years old. The powdercoated grill still looks great, but the push bar didn't weather very well. I'm having it powder coated to match and going with a white bumper as well.

Needs a tach, and I'd love to have a working fuel gauge!

I think fresh black on the air cleaner and fan shroud, and clean up the white fenderwells will make a difference. For the engine paint I'm thinking of using "Ford Green" which looks very teal and I think a close match to what it has now.

 

Man, I am really glad I decided to look at this thread! Awesome work there John. Pretty sure there are some look-a-like tachs out there for you on the Hawk. I believe I've seen that needle type on the Vintage Series. I'm finally getting back to the 69 F350 myself. Just finished sizing the new cab mounts at the front of the cab and am reinstalling the front sheet metal so I can mount the radiator. Which leads me to my question; Do you have a bolt/nut set for the bottom of the front fender at the cab? It's a square nut and a big (but short) bolt. I had to cut mine out because they had become one with each other. Fortunately I did not damage any of the sheet metal. Total PITA cutting that bolt to get it out. I will gladly contribute to your project(s) or bottom line to have the correct Ford parts.
And here's the new horn button I made for 'another project.' That's a 66 hubcap center. Came out slick!

 

well if my GF was there she wouldnt... but normally the days i cant stay awake shes off and im in there with my other co workers... which no they wouldnt...

 

Hey Ed, I am not 100% sure what you are asking for, but I think I have an idea. Is it a square thing that slips inside the hole and then is held in place by the pressure of the bolt as you screw it in? If so, Ford used them on Mustang fenders as well as my 69 grill in 2 places. Look at this link and see if it is what you are talking about. If so I don't have one handy, I couldn't save any that I removed and just bought the ones I needed new and no extra. That horn button came out great! Cool way to repurpose a hubcap center.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/fender-t...968/p/359613S/

 

That did come out nice and looks factory to boot, love it.
I had to replace the wheel in my Javelin and went with a thicker Jeep sport wheel but COULD NOT keep that jeep center.
Javelin center

Jeep center


Finished


Dave ----

 

Thanks. Sweet on the steering wheel mod!
John, you had me doubting my memory so I went out to look. It's actually a J-nut with a captured square nut. Of course the nut and bolt were toast, and all I have left is the J-nut frame. I'll try NPD.

 

Hi Ed, I wasn't sure what a J nut was so I googled it and found this. If this is what you mean then no I definitely do not have one handy.

 

Yeah, that's the modern version. Off to Ace!

 

For reference, the Truck body bolts are 3/8-16. I believe the Car body bolts are 5/16-18. Got a square nut, flange head bolt and ext tooth lock washer $1.99 out the door.

 

2 bucks, no waiting. Can't beat that!

 

Went through both 4 wheelers today and changed front and rear gear case fluids, as well as transmission fluid in both. When I drained the transmission fluid on my 800 I was a little concerned how dark it is.... until I dumped the new out of the quart bottle into my little squirt bottle to refill with.



let's just say Polaris "AGL" fluid is very dark purple lol. Anyways a quart of that and a quart of polaris demand drive fluid for the front ran me $38. Then a quart of synthetic 75w90 for the rear ends. Both 4 wheelers it cost me about $50 for a service, not including oil change.

Then I installed my new winch solenoid, the replacement didn't have the right plug so I cut it off the old solenoid so it is plug and play with my factory switch. I had ordered some of those "as seen on tv" low temp solder/heat wrap connectors, so I used those. Guess we will see how that works out.

 

So a little over a year ago I picked up 2 hitches for $35. The wider one (bolt holes 37.5" center to center) came off an unknown vehicle, the narrower one (bolt holes 30.5" center to center) came off a Ford Ranger. I didn't really have a plan in mind I just thought it was a great deal and that I'd eventually find something to use them for.


I wanted a hitch for the 83 Flareside, but most of the aftermarket ones are really designed with the Styleside in mind and mount to the bottom of the frame, to come out underneath the bumper. But the Flareside bumper sits much higher than a Styleside bumper which leaves the hitch sitting way low by comparison. Still perfectly functional it just looks "off".

(ok this is a different body year, but you can see what I'm trying to avoid)

I did a little test fitting and playing around, the wider hitch just was not feasible. Going outside the frame as I would have to do with it, the rear spring perch brackets are in the way. And it's not quite wide enough to slide up next to the frame anyway even if I cut the 90 degree mounting lip off. But the narrow Ford Ranger hitch does fit up inside the frame. It came to within approx 3/4 inch of the frame rails on both sides.


One problem with this hitch, the mounting holes were very big (around 1 inch diameter). I think the guy I got it from (a local welding shop) just used a torch to cut around the bolts rather than fight them with a wrench & ratchet.


I bought some nice thick washers / spacers off ebay, they have 1/2 inch diameter hole and are 1/4 inch thick.


I had to do a little clearancing with the dremel & a carbide bit to get them to fit perfectly.


Burned them in with my welder and ground it smooth again.


I got some 1/4 thick steel plate 4" x 12" and drilled holes to mount it to the frame of the truck. Then clamped the hitch in place for a test fit.


From a standing position near the rear of the truck, the hitch receiver is barely noticeable.


Standing back a little further, you can see the hitch better, snugged up much closer to the bottom of the bumper.


I've enjoyed using my father-in-law's drill press for this thick steel, but wow does it ever make a mess!


This hitch is clearly labeled "V5", but I can't for the life of me figure why a Ranger would need a Class 5 hitch.


Sanded off all the rust and old paint & prepped the brackets.


After a coat of primer, I rattle-canned it with VHT satin black wheel paint.


All mounted in place, very sturdy!


Looks great, now I just need to dig around to find and old receiver & hitch ball for it. And seeing this pic reminds me, I need to clean up the wiring and do something about the exhaust. The "to-do" list never ends!

 

Looks good./great That V5 sticker is used on all the hitches just to indicate the weight - towing and tongue not the class rating.
I've got Class 1, 3 and 4 hitches withe the same V5 sticker on them.