Wrecking yard people got jokes.

On the stock ticket, the wrecking yard people noted, "Good used axle bearing little noisy."



.....probably didn't have anything to do with all that rust inside it.

I could tell before I pressed it off that it needed replacing. That's OK though. I had already planned to put new axle bearings on anyway.

 

The 2nd 31-spline axle arrived today.

I got the old bearing off the first axle and got it cleaned up.

After I get this second axle cleaned up, it'll be time to press new bearings on, change out axle seals in the 9-inch rear end housing (swap the smaller 28-spline seals for the larger diameter 31-spline axle seals).

A Fel-Pro 55074 3rd member-to-housing gasket, 3 bottles of gear oil, and 4oz of friction modifier later, the old effie will be sporting 31-splines and an N-case 3rd member with a Traction-Lok.

 

Ready, willing, and able to stave off whatever mill might be Lurking under that green hood in the future.

 

That's right. I like to think of it as just a good 'insurance policy.' No matter what may transpire under the hood, the rear end will be more than up to the task to handle it. .... and, power will now be directed to BOTH rear wheels, not just the right one.

 

Now, the remaining issue goes back to the stock '69 C-4 lever on the side of the transmission and mounting a neutral safety switch there.





Donor transmission lever (and trans mounted NSS).





I was fortunate that the 79 C4 donor for my swap already has that neutral safety switch. Of course my original 3sp std didn't have one. The challenge will be to wire it. I'm assuming its a pretty basic open close switch but what do you hook it up to? And why is there 4 wires?

 

Reverse (light) switch position.

 

HIO is correct on the two wires for the backup lights.

All total, there are (4) wires on the NSS; two are for the neutral safety circuit and two wires are for the backup light circuit.

The trucks had the NSS mounted inside the cab, on the lower end of the steering column, through 1977. In '78, the NSS was moved to the side of the (automatic) transmission. --no NSS's were used on the manual transmissions in those days.

There's a flat, (4) terminal bullet connector under my dash that the stock '69 NSS connects to. I'll unhook the old NSS, make up a 4-wire harness with bullet terminals, plug them into the dash harness connector, run the fabricated harness out to the transmission-mounted switch and plug them into it.

Although my stock '69 C-4 didn't come with a NSS mounted to it, the thread bosses are cast onto the side of the case to mount the switch there.

I just need to take the gear selector lever off the side of the C-4 and get two slots machined into its shoulders, so the tabs of the NSS will slide up onto it, into the two machined grooves, to actuate the switch when the lever moves.

....I have the flat, black, (4) bullet terminal connector pulled up here to show what the stock '69 NSS connector looks like.

 

Ya I've put in a 76 column that has the nss but the trans location looks like the easier of the two to use. So what does the NSS interrupt? The start wire to the solenoid?

 

It won't allow the starter to engage unless the gear selector lever is in either the Park or Neutral positions. Any other spot on the gear selector dial and it's no starty starty for the engine.

 

I know how the switch works. Open (off) in R,D,2and1, then closed (on) in P or N. I'll have to check it to see which two are NSS and which two are back up ( I don't have back up lights on a 68) but what do I wire it to? What circuit does it complete and interrupt? and where's the best place to splice in?


Also that's a great pic of the wiring behind the cluster. Is the pink resistor wire visible in there somewhere? The info I got was to disconnect it at a plug that's about 4" from the ignition switch but that info is 60's Mustang. I have to disconnect it and run a new wire to power my duraspark II.

 

The neutral safety switch interrupts the ignition circuit to the solenoid.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring/68-35.jpg

NSS switch connector "H" in the following schematic.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring/68-09.jpg


The resistance wire is something I have to look into as well --haven't gotten there, yet. I have a Duraspark distributor from a 300 inline six to go in my 240.

 

I thought I remembered reading before the Duraspark still took a resistance wire so I looked one up for the Dents. I was right.
73/77 all..................COLF12250A....61 1/2" long.
77/79 E-F100/350.....D7AZ12250A...49" long.
The 1st year for Duraspark in some Dents was 1974. Not 1977. And the 1st year for the Blue Tab ignition module was 1976. I have also heard a few times that leaving the key "on" for an extended time without the engine running is hard on those ignition modules. Like leaving the key ON so you can hear your tunes while washing your truck. So I think ya better keep that pink wire Ultra.

 

I have the Duraspark module with the Blue plastic wiring strain relief on it. --there are at least two other modules I know of; one with a Yellow strain relief and another with a Red one. They are, electrically, different from the Blue version. I THINK the color code difference has something to do with emissions control.

The last time I installed a Duraspark ignition was on the 302 in my '68 Mustang. That was sometime back in the very early '90s.

I don't remember exactly how I hooked it up, since that was a while ago. If I don't have to bypass the resistance wire to the coil, it should be a simple hookup in the '69 F100.

One wire from the module is hot only in the Start position of the ignition switch. The other is hot only in the Run position. I turn the ignition to Accessory, if I have the tunes playing while the engine isn't running.

 

I have the Petronix on my old 300 IL 6, and the tunes must not be connected to the correct post on my ignition, cuz, they only work when the key is turned to the on, or run position... now on the list of 'to do's'. Not sure if I can burn up the Petronix, but do not want to chance it...

Hey, my cab is a '67, and the chassis is a /72... does that make my truck an average '69.5? Math works, but the title says '67... little do they know... doors are off a '69..

Baja

 

If the original ignitor module happens to be aligned with one of the magnets on the rotor, and the key is left in the RUN position without the engine running (why??), it can roast the module and the coil.

Same thing will happen with points, btw. Here's a picture from Bubba's Ignition, the customer left the key on and a battery charger connected for good measure.