Bye Bye Front Drums
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I bought the fan clutch new from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I specified it for a 1979 Ford F150 with a 300. It is a Hayden part number 2710.
With the 3-groove water pump pulley from an '82 Ford pickup with a 300, I had to change from my shorter 3-5/8" water pump to a longer 4-5/16" water pump. The new water pump I installed came from NAPA. it's a Tru-Flow part number 42070.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
D0SE-A. D0SZ8600A. 7 BLADE. 19" O.D.. 2 3/8" I.D.
70/72 T-bird with A/C.
73/76 T-Bird Standard Cooling,after 10/16/72
73/76 T-Bird with A/C.
70 Torino. 429 except special and CJ.
72/76 Torino. 429/460 with A/C,w/o trailer tow, and except Police.
70/72 T-bird with A/C.
73/76 T-Bird Standard Cooling,after 10/16/72
73/76 T-Bird with A/C.
70 Torino. 429 except special and CJ.
72/76 Torino. 429/460 with A/C,w/o trailer tow, and except Police.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
The number stamped on the blades of the clutch fan is D0SE so, I take it it was designed for a '70 Thunderbird. It's a 19" diameter fan. My stock, fixed 4-blade fan was 18.5".
I bought the fan clutch new from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I specified it for a 1979 Ford F150 with a 300. It is a Hayden part number 2710.
With the 3-groove water pump pulley from an '82 Ford pickup with a 300, I had to change from my shorter 3-5/8" water pump to a longer 4-5/16" water pump. The new water pump I installed came from NAPA. it's a Tru-Flow part number 42070.
I bought the fan clutch new from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I specified it for a 1979 Ford F150 with a 300. It is a Hayden part number 2710.
With the 3-groove water pump pulley from an '82 Ford pickup with a 300, I had to change from my shorter 3-5/8" water pump to a longer 4-5/16" water pump. The new water pump I installed came from NAPA. it's a Tru-Flow part number 42070.
If the water pump pulley is not changed to a smaller OD size then the stock engine manual fan pulley you'll not be moving enough water through the radiator fast enough to keep it cool if stopped more then 5-7 minutes or so just idling. Maybe stop & go traffic you may notice the temp higher then normal.
Orich
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
ultraranger, I'm sure you know this but for any other people thinking about changing a motor over to a fan clutch.
If the water pump pulley is not changed to a smaller OD size then the stock engine manual fan pulley you'll not be moving enough water through the radiator fast enough to keep it cool if stopped more then 5-7 minutes or so just idling. Maybe stop & go traffic you may notice the temp higher then normal.
Orich
If the water pump pulley is not changed to a smaller OD size then the stock engine manual fan pulley you'll not be moving enough water through the radiator fast enough to keep it cool if stopped more then 5-7 minutes or so just idling. Maybe stop & go traffic you may notice the temp higher then normal.
Orich
This is a side-by-side comparison of my old single-groove water pump pulley on the left and the smaller diameter 3-groove pulley on the right that replaced it.
For a time though, I was running the clutch fan on my 240 with the single groove pulley and no fan shroud (still don't have a shroud). I was also running the short water pump that spaced the fan back a good distance from the radiator --especially compared to where it is now with the longer water pump.
It gets up in the high 90s to lower 100s here in south Arkansas during the summer time with humidity in the 80s to 90s percentile range (miserable temperatures compounded by the high humidity). Even so though, I never had a problem with the tired old 240 trying to overheat on me.
With the current alterations, it should work even better.
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Joined: Jun 2014
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Is there possibly another fan that may have more blades that is a direct swap/bolt on that does not require a fan clutch?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
There was a 6-blade fan, 18", non-clutched, fixed pitch (no flex) for the W-Code '69 and some '70 model 428 Super Cobra Jet Mustangs. Ford part number C9OE-H. --finding one for sale would probably be expensive, just because of what it came off of. .... but you never know. Might be a good deal out there waiting to be found
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
There were tons of different Ford fans back in the 60's and 70's. With or without fan clutch. If you target the 70's there were some factory "flex fans". Most of the blade were solid but there was a tail end added to the blades that flexed. The one of these I put on my Bump is part number D9AZ8600A. 5 BLADE. 18 1/2" diameter. 5/8" pilot hole. Engineering number D9AE-EA. Which replaced D7AE-AA,D2SE-AA,D50E-AA. As I recall there was a recall on the D7AE-AA one though. So stay away from that one.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I installed a factory dual-diaphragm Bendix booster from a 1975 F350. The input rod on it was a direct connection to the pin on my '69 brake pedal.
I only reused the firewall-to-booster brackets and the plastic tubular boot that goes between the back of the booster to the engine side of the firewall. I turned the donor booster in as a core for a newly rebuilt booster (without cruise control). Dentside boosters without cruise control will have a round pedal pin eyelet on the booster's input rod. Dentside boosters with cruise control will have a triangular pedal pin eyelet.
BrakeBest 54-73112 - Power Brake Booster | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Joined: Jun 2014
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There were tons of different Ford fans back in the 60's and 70's. With or without fan clutch. If you target the 70's there were some factory "flex fans". Most of the blade were solid but there was a tail end added to the blades that flexed. The one of these I put on my Bump is part number D9AZ8600A. 5 BLADE. 18 1/2" diameter. 5/8" pilot hole. Engineering number D9AE-EA. Which replaced D7AE-AA,D2SE-AA,D50E-AA. As I recall there was a recall on the D7AE-AA one though. So stay away from that one.
Here are a couple of photos:
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I just about have all the changes wrapped on on the '69 Ranger. Friday night I put the radiator in, hooked up, filled up, turned the key and the engine spun over like a champ --but, she no start???
Started checking visually and with a meter. The points/condenser, cap/rotor and wires were on the truck when I bought it nearly 4 years ago (don't know how long they were on before that).
I went ahead and bought new points, condenser, rotor, cap, plugs and wires (240 engine). --still no start. I have spark coming out of the coil and spark at the points but nothing out of the plug wires.
Hmmm, very odd since (to my knowledge) I didn't change anything on the ignition, during the other changes I've made on the truck.
Started checking visually and with a meter. The points/condenser, cap/rotor and wires were on the truck when I bought it nearly 4 years ago (don't know how long they were on before that).
I went ahead and bought new points, condenser, rotor, cap, plugs and wires (240 engine). --still no start. I have spark coming out of the coil and spark at the points but nothing out of the plug wires.
Hmmm, very odd since (to my knowledge) I didn't change anything on the ignition, during the other changes I've made on the truck.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: El Dorado, Arkansas
The Juice is Loose
Which one of these things is not like the other? (hint: the one on the right).
This is why.
The coil is mounted to the left side of the block with the tower pointing toward the firewall. From the front or left side of the truck, this problem wasn't obvious but, when I unbolted it and turned the top where I could see it, it was.
There's big crack in the top that let most of the transformer oil out. I could shake the coil and hear the windings flopping around inside.
There was spark coming out of the coil when I was checking it but, not a strong spark. Only thing I can figure is it had voltage to produce a (weak) spark but, not enough amperage to drive it through the resistance wires to the plugs (spark dissipated before making it to the spark plugs).
Fortunately, I had an identical (new) spare coil on the shelf. I put it on and the mighty 240 woke up from its five month long sleep.
--The new power steering was smooth and the C-2 PS pump was nice and quite.
This is why.
The coil is mounted to the left side of the block with the tower pointing toward the firewall. From the front or left side of the truck, this problem wasn't obvious but, when I unbolted it and turned the top where I could see it, it was.
There's big crack in the top that let most of the transformer oil out. I could shake the coil and hear the windings flopping around inside.
There was spark coming out of the coil when I was checking it but, not a strong spark. Only thing I can figure is it had voltage to produce a (weak) spark but, not enough amperage to drive it through the resistance wires to the plugs (spark dissipated before making it to the spark plugs).
Fortunately, I had an identical (new) spare coil on the shelf. I put it on and the mighty 240 woke up from its five month long sleep.
--The new power steering was smooth and the C-2 PS pump was nice and quite.