Since my truck is a '69 model, and currently with its carbureted 240, it's just a 'dumb' system. My tool of choice to track down wires or wiring/continuity problems is this Fluke 77 III multi-meter.



Eventually, the carbed 240 (dumb) engine will be replaced by a more 'intelligent' '90 Mustang GT 5.0L H.O. fuel injected engine, controlled by a '92 5.0L Mustang GT Mass Air A9P EEC-IV engine processor.

When/if problems happen with a dumb engine, you just have to have a sense of the symptom to have an idea of what to begin to look at, to find the problem. Resolution may be quick and easy or, you may be on a wild goose chase of wasting time and throwing money at unnecessary parts before you actually find what's wrong to fix it.

An 'intelligent' (Ford fuel injected) engine has the advantage of a communications port in its main engine wiring harness that you can plug a code scanner into to quickly track down and identify any problems going on with the engine.

For this, I have more advanced tools for its diagnostics --an actual Ford Service Department Rotunda Super Star II code scanner.



If there's a problem between the EEC-IV engine processor, through the engine harness and to the engine sensors, I can connect the Rotunda 60-pin breakout box (BOB) to track down where the problem is.




This is a rough sketch I made of the connectors, for the tilt column installation, and the identification of the wires/color codes I was working with.



As I had mentioned, I don't currently have the hazard switch, on the tilt column, tied into the circuit. The hazards still work off the switch in the glove box. --the yellow wire isn't hooked up because the cruise control module isn't currently installed.

Everything else on the column wiring is hooked up and works but, there's something screwy going on with the blinkers. When I push the turn signal lever up, the left side blinkers come on --and vise-versa. I've swapped the position of the signal wires and it doesn't correct the problem (???). This is just something I'll have to look at further to sort out what's going on with that.

On my old '69 fixed column, there was only one horn contact sticking up off the turn signal switch (Blue/Yellow wire) and one slip ring it contacted on the underside of the old steering wheel.

On the '78 column turn signal switch, there are two horn contacts (Dark Blue wire on one contact and a Yellow/White wire on the other contact --I bought the (tilt column) turn signal switch brand new from Bronco Graveyard --Shee-Mar, Inc. p/n SM61F). On the '79 donor truck wiring connector/pigtail, the wire color codes are Dark Blue and Yellow/Blue.



I didn't use both contacts for the horn. I used the contact on the turn signal switch closest to the center of the steering wheel hub --just like it was on the old '69 turn signal switch. The circuit comes up hot through the Dark Blue wire, through the contact, through one of the two slip rings on the Momo steering wheel adapter, through the horn button and then to ground inside the hub to energize the horns.

The cruise control I'll be installing came from the same '90 Mustang GT I pulled the 5.0L EFI engine from. The CC switches don't have 5 different wires going back to the module for each of the CC buttons. There are common wires that run between the switches in the steering wheel, and a ground and a hot that will go to the CC module. The hot doesn't send a 12v signal to the CC module for each button. Each button has a different resistance value that sends a signal to the module. The module knows what button is being pressed by the resistance value it receives. This is why 5 separate wires from the steering wheel/column to the module aren't needed.

These are some of the schematics I used to trace out circuits and try and identify wire colors:

http://www.fordification.com/tech/tilt.htm

http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...ghts_81-85.jpg

http://www.fordification.com/tech/wi...orncircuit.jpg

http://www.fordification.com/tech/schematics_h.htm

http://fordification.net/tech/images...aster_5of9.jpg

http://fordification.net/tech/wiring.htm

 

My radiator support wasn't taped off properly during the paintjob so there is silver overspray all over it, which completely detracts from the look, so I did some quick photoshopping one day to see the difference it makes.

AsBPOJ2.jpgp

 

Yep. Makes a BIG difference in what you do or don't notice.

 

It's all in the details and overall finish and that's what a lot of people miss when they create something.

 

My original drum/drum pressure differential valve was mounted inside the left frame rail, right behind the manual steering gear box.

Since I've replaced the front drums with discs, I made a bracket to mount the new disc/drum combination brake valve to the top of the power steering gear box.

The original connector wiring, to the pressure differential switch, was too short to reach the brake valve switch in its new location. Again, I didn't want to cut the truck's original wiring so, what's a person to do?

I followed the wires back from the original switch connector and found it went back to a moulded male/female bullet terminal connector, beside the brake booster.

I dug around in some of my old brake valves and removed a switch connector/pigtail from one of them. I had an old backup light lying around, from a '67 Mustang, that had the same exact style moulded bullet connector on the end of it.

I clipped the connector off the backup light (I've seen a new bullet connector/pigtail like this at NAPA. It may be possible it would work. I think the bullet terminal is a .159" diameter).

Re-purposed parts. Brake pressure differential switch/pigtail on the left. Male/female bullet connector on the right.



Wire lengths staggered so the butt splices aren't directly side-by-side.



Connections crimped, soldered and heat shrink over the spliced connections.





Original switch connection near brake booster taken loose...



...'new' connector plugged in, and again, done without cutting any of the truck's original wiring.

 

I have a buddy out in California that built a full on VW show beetle and went out of the way to make sure every nut and bolt on the car ended up indexed the same direction.

I've been called OCD, but I don't know if I have the patience to do that, lol.

 

I'm not that ****. I just think it's important (to me) to pay attention to detail. Things should not only function well, they should look good doing it.

My truck is nowhere close to perfect and without totally tearing it down and starting completely over, it's not going to be perfect.

In the areas I am working on, I try to make the components look as good as possible. If the detail in cleaning and painting parts is time consuming, oh well. The pay off for the extra time spent will come when the project is done. This requires the extra time put into it, in order to make that happen.

After all, this is what I bought the truck for in the first place --to eventually make it run and look really nice.

 

Ultraranger,

I understand completely. My goal is to make my 72 run and drive good first, then worry about aesthetics, but that doesn't mean it cannot look nicer along the way as well. My first big project after I get my rusty bed replaced is going to be completely cleaning the engine compartment.

Gene

 

Well amigos, Gene has opened the subject of rusty bed... just so happens that yesterday, I picked up a used bed, for 2000 pesos (about $135 US), which I intend to clean up, and modify to fit over the rear mounted winch & gantry on my old truck. The plan is to make it appear as 'Normal' looking as possible. I will start my own thread, on Bed Restore, and photo document as it progresses.

Baja

 

Lookin' forward to it. Go-Go-Gadget Baja!

 

My new prop valve has the single terminal switch. I'm going to check NAPA and see if I can located the plug that you mentioned.

 

Ford used that male/female plug in a zillion things Bobby. You might have one in your stash. Radios,lamps,wiring extensions,etc.

 

Ha, you may be right, I may already have one. Thanks, I'll look around.

 

Yup even tail light housing plugs where, I get them from, Or better yet the later 73-up door speaker plugs weather sealed type plugs work good also but smaller ga wires.
orich

 

1967 was the first year Ford went to tandem (split) brake systems from all the previous years single reservoir MCs.

On the '67 Ford brake valves, there was a single post connector/switch assembly.

Beginning in 1968-onward, Ford went to a double pin switch/connector.

The aftermarket valve Bobby has does not have the Ford designed single pin switch. That valve is based off a GM brake valve design. I don't know if the switch itself is also a direct copy of the original GM brake switch but, this is where I would look to find a connector/pigtail to plug into the switch.