After re-reading what you posted (Bobby), maybe I misunderstood (?).

If you're talking about needing the Ford male/female bullet connector to tie back into the truck's wiring harness, disregard my previous post.

If you're talking about needing the connector to plug into the switch on the valve, then you would probably need to look at GM connectors to connect to the switch on the valve.

 

The prop valve came with a connector and wire for the switch. just need to wire it to the truck loom. I've been busy helping my buddy restore a 66 Mustang convertible.

 

Yeah, the male/female bullet is the one I need. I'm pretty sure there's one in the garage somewhere.

 

I used the other bullet terminal connector, from the other '67 Mustang backup light, when I installed my 3G alternator in my '69 F-100.

I needed to be able to tie back into the harness near the starter solenoid for the green/red wire back to the alternator light and the feed to the horns.


This is the '67 Mustang the backup light bullet connectors were harvested from.

The Mustang doesn't belong to me. It belongs to a guy in a neighboring town. He brought it to me and I did a LOT of work on it.







Rusted out floor pans had to be cut out and new ones welded back in.





Right front inner fender apron and lower right side of core support was rusted out so, I fixed those.



Drilling spot welds out. (my '68 Mustang in the background off to to right).



Cancerous panel removed.





New panel lined up and ready to be spot welded in.



Crusty 4-lug drum brakes. I removed them and replaced them with '75-'80 Granada front spindles/5-lug discs. I lowered the upper A-arm pivot mounting point by 1" (Shelby/Arning drop) and installed all new front suspension components.







Blasted the inner and outer engine compartment.





Donor 8-inch 5-lug drum brake rear end from a '69 Mustang to replace the anemic Ford 7-1/4" 4-lug rear end.

Before.



After.



New steering, suspension and disc brakes installed.





200 inline six and Top-Loader 3-spd ready to be set back over in the Mustang.



I made new fuel, (steel) engine vacuum, and brake lines for the '67.

 

If this works, I am trying to attach a photo of my fender flairs, that looked so cool, on Bobby's truck... here goes something...

 

Hey we share the same 2.5" fender flares looking good Baja

Orich

 

I have a wiper switch and delay module from a '78 Dentside that's just been lying around for a couple of years now. Today's objective was to finally install it.

There's an article in the following link on installing the delay wipers in a Bumpside truck.

Installing a Factory Wiper Delay - FORDification.com

My '78 wiper switch and delay module.



The first step was to remove the instrument cluster. The speedometer cable has to be disconnected from the back of the cluster. This requires a 3/4" wrench to unscrew the speedometer cable connection.

Take the (8) cluster screws out on the face side of the cluster.

Slide the cluster forward and unplug the instrument harness from the back. The cluster can now be set in a safe place off to the side.



The mounting bracket for my module wasn't exactly like the one in the link above. Mine didn't have two mounting screw holes in it. It had one screw hole and then a locating tab a small distance below that.

I took a caliper and measured from the center of the screw hole to the center line of the tab. This was a span of just a fraction under 1inch.

I went to place the caliper on the framework of the dash stucture, from the original ground wire hole, to make a scratch mark with the other point of the caliper, where the new hole for the tab needed to be but, the caliper was too long to get it up under the dash to do this.

I didn't have to be real smart to figure this out, I only had to be smarter than what I was working with. I decided I would take a piece of masking tape and make a dot on it with a Sharpie. I took the caliper, and placed one point on the 1st mark and made a 2nd dot where the tip of the other caliper point was on the tape.

I took my drop light and put it under the dash where the light would shine through the original ground wire hole, in the dash structure. I then took the tape, with the two dots, and lined one of the dots up in the center of the (illuminated) hole. Once the dot was lined up, I pressed the tape down to stick it into place. Now, I knew where the other hole needed to be drilled for the module bracket tab to stick through.



Now that I knew where the second hole needed to be, I took a center punch to dimple the spot where I would drill. I took a small drill bit (7/64") to make a pilot hole.





I took the caliper and measured the width of the tab on the mounting bracket. It would require a 7/32" bit to make the hole for the tab to go through.



Pilot hole drilled out to 7/32".



The shaft of the later model wiper switch (on the right) has to be shortened (cut off).



I trimmed the excess length with a cut-off wheel and deburred the tip with a file.



Next, I took some dielectric grease and squirted it into the connector that plugs into the back of the switch.





I put dielectric grease in the connectors that go to the delay module and plugged them in.





Delay module mounted with the bracket tab sticking through the new hole, so the module won't twist around under the dash.



'69 wiper switch **** mounted on the shaft of the '78 delay wiper switch.



I can finally check that one off the to-do list.

 

Thanks very much amigo, for posting this "How To", as I have the same project on the list, and now I have no excuses. Hope to put a check in that box soon.

Thanks again, great photos..

Baja

 

Good job on the "how to" Ultra. I'm sure will help many Googleing in the future. Ya gotta love doing something easier that's "plug and play".....Aye?

 

I hope my example will make your installation even easier to do.

 

Thanks. It took me a couple of hours to do the swap but, part of that was figuring out how I was going to handle the mounting bracket, since it had the tab instead of two screw holes, and the other was taking pictures at each step and then uploading them to Photo Bucket.

The nice part about the swap --other than the benefit of delay wipers, is the swap doesn't involve cutting, running or splicing any wires. You just plug the existing connectors in.

 

The fender flairs were easy to install, and yes, I too think they look pretty good. I am pondering an improvement to them, but have not completed the design for my idea. I got it from my 93 Tracker, and 95 Jeep Gran Cherokee. Both have a plastic insert, inside the wheel well, to protect the fender from mud, dirt, sand, and what ever, building up, while making it way easier to clean under there.

My thought is to use what's available to me here in Baja, and not have to haul more stuff South with me. My idea, so far, is to use a 40 gal plastic barrel, and cut it in half, top to bottom. Then, cut the length, to fit under the fender, between the frame & fender. Keeping half the bottom, and spreading the semi circle to conform to the shape of the fender / wheel opening. My thought is that the bottom of the cut barrel, will provide a sturdy, flat, surface for attaching to the existing inside fender well, and frame if necessary. Next trip to town, I will buy a black plastic barrel and begin experimentation. Any comments, and or ideas are most welcome.

Baja

 

Hey Baja, a while ago I brought up the inner fender plastic/nylon splash shields that Dents got starting in 1976. Ford part numbers D6TZ16102A and D6TZ16103A. I wondered if they can be altered to fit on Bumps. A couple said they would try but I never heard back a yes or no.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-1979-FORD-TRUCK-F100-350-FRONT-FENDER-SPLASH-SHIELD-LEFT-/281519138965?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item418bd92895&vxp=mtr

 

You beat me to mentioning that.

Since the Dents are very similar to the Bumps, I bet it wouldn't be too difficult to adapt them.

 

Thanks amigos, now to find them in Baja, or put it on the "Bringo" list for next trip North. I am sure that they would be way more 'clean' looking than a cut up plastic barrel, so I am on the hunt for awhile. Thanks again amigos, Oh how I do love this site, and all you guys with mucho experience. Wonder if DC has any?? Shipping will probably kill me though... Local junk yards are my best bet. Meanwhile, during the trailer ride, for the new bed, I discovered a '79 tilt steering column... but the guy would not turn loose of it... luckily, his buddy, has 3, so I am still in the game on that one..