I did get some brackets painted today, but I've been distracted this week.
The guy that used to paint my dad's cars called me this week to help him get some cars assembled. In return for my help, he'll bodywork my truck and help me paint it (no brainer, for me.)
He's and incredible body guy.
Right now I'm assembling a 66 Mustang convertible that was disassembled 4 years ago. We also have a 66 notchback and a late 60's E-Type Jag that's in a thousand pieces.
I am, however, following your thread and copy/pasting info that will help me with my brake swap.
Keep up the good work

 

Thanks, Baja.

The style MC I used (1995 Ford Explorer 1.062" [1-1/16"] bore for 4-wheel discs) wasn't around when this truck was built and Ford wasn't using metric bubble flares on MCs back then. But, I suppose they could have done something similar with the lines from the MC to the brake valve. I'm not an engineer but often times a little intelligence and just plain common sense is all you need to accomplish something.

As I've mentioned before, I've never been shown how to bend or flare tubing. I just started out, years ago, with a good quality set of hand flaring and bending tools, tinkered around with some tubing until I developed a feel for it and figured it out.

Anyone can learn to do this stuff. My best advise, if you are going to make your own lines, is to invest in some quality brake line tools. It makes the biggest difference between producing mediocre lines and ones that look much more professional.

 

Sounds like some cool projects. I'm a Mustanger from way back. The first vehicle I learned to drive was my dad's red and white '68 F-100 Ranger short bed, 360, 3-on-the-tree. No power steering no power brakes but it did have A/C.

My first car was a '68 (deluxe interior) Mustang notchback. I bought it in September 1982, 2 weeks before I turned 16. That was 32 years ago and I still have that car today.

Painting a vehicle is something I've never done and know little about. I've been trying to decide if I'll give it a try on my truck when the time comes to paint it. I know no one else will give my truck the attention to detail and prep than I would.

If there's something I can help you with when you start to install/plumb your brakes, you can give me a shout. I'll be glad to help, if I can.

Steve

 

Thanks, Steve.

 

Currently, it seems I'm going in the opposite direction of progress. In order to install the power steering, I have to remove my single groove (240) water pump pulley to install a 3-groove pulley I have.

The old 2-groove harmonic balancer also has to come off to be replaced by the (brand new) 3-groove balancer I bought. I had forgotten about the old front cover seal being installed from the REAR of the cover instead of from the FRONT, like on the later engines. This meant I had to pull the front cover off to install a new seal, --since the seal was leaking pretty bad and I don't want that crap getting all over my truck's pretty new parts.

Since pulling the cover off destroyed the cover gasket, I called the parts store to see if they had a front cover gasket set for a '69 F-100 with a 240. They didn't and said they would have to order it. I asked if they had a front cover set in stock for an '86 F-150 with a 300, they said yes. I went to the parts store to pick it up. They brought out a Fel-Pro box off the shelf that had been opened, --looked inside and it was empty ($#!*).

The '86 cover set comes with the newer style front seal that installs from the front. Since they were going to have to order another set, I told them to just get me one for the '69 model. It won't be here until Wednesday.

I took the front cover off, got it cleaned up, bead blasted, primed and painted. Now, I need the gaskets to be able put the cover back on so I can get on with installing the balancer, power steering pump, etc.

At least the timing gears on this tired old 240 still look good. --I just hate not being able to clean everything under the hood and put a nice, fresh coat of paint on all of it. --that will have to wait until a later time.....



My crusty 2-groove balancer and the stock single groove water pump pulley on the left. The new and beautiful 3-groove balancer on the right with the 3-groove water pump pulley. The rubber on the old balancer was getting in pretty bad shape



A while back, I had replaced the stock 18" 4-blade fixed fan for a 19" 7-blade clutch fan from a '70s Thunderbird. I bought the fan clutch new. --I specified a fan clutch for a '79 F-150 with a 300, when I bought the fan clutch from the parts store.

 

Nice trick Ultra, and if you don't mind, I am going to copy your lead on this... I recently beefed up my 300 six, with cam & top end parts & head work. Now, with the headers and 4 bbl carb & alum. intake, the engine is running hotter, and way stronger. I just ordered an aluminum 4 core radiator, so with a fan clutch & 7 blade fan, my cooling should catch up to the engine's heat.

I have had difficulty finding a water pump, without the cheezy sheet metal impeller, that disolves over time. Still searching.. if you have a lead on any that are well made please post the information...

Thanks amigo
Baja

 

I got my 7-blade fan from ebay. 7-blade Ford (clutch) fans are all over the place in price. When I was looking, some were in the $100.00 dollar range. I scored this one for $15.00 plus $12.00 shipping.

If I've done something you think might help you, have at it. I don't know if you a have fan shroud (I don't) but, it would probably help your cooling tremendously. It would just be a matter of determining what's the correct shroud for your engine, radiator and fan diameter/depth.

Sorry, but, I can't help on the water pump situation. I'm hoping I don't have to change the water pump on my old 240 before I change engines. --I have a 5.0L H.O. fuel injected engine from a 1990 Mustang GT I plan to eventually swap in place of the old carbureted 240.

In the mean time, until the engine swap can happen, I just want to make some improvements with what I currently have in place.

 

I am on the hunt for quality water pumps, and will post when I find 'em

Baja

 

In this photo are the power steering pump and brackets, and the A/C compressor mounting bracket, I pulled off a Ford 300 engine that came from an '82 model Ford pickup.



On the '82 300, the A/C bracket was bolted to the (4) threaded bosses on the side of the engine, (just in front of the fuel pump) like the (4) bosses shown here on my '69 240.



The long power steering bracket was bolted to the A/C bracket, on the rear set of holes.





Since I don't currently have the rest of the A/C components, I'm not going to install the A/C bracket. In the A/C brackets absence, this means I have to space the long power steering bracket out, from the bosses on the engine block, the thickness of the A/C compressor bracket (about 7/16" thick). I found that this is about the thickness of (4) flat washers.



I looked up the Ford diagram of the power steering and A/C brackets, on an '80-'89 truck with a 300, and noticed in the drawing it shows (2) solid spacers that appear to be on the OUTBOARD side of the A/C bracket, between it and the long power steering bracket. The (2) spacers are Ford part number N802546-S (AV-27-B).



I pulled the power steering pump/bracket and the A/C compressor mounting bracket, myself, from the 300 donor engine and these (2) spacers weren't on it (???). I can't find any information on these spacers --thickness, availability, anything.

I'm not certain if the parts on the drawing are proportional but, the bracket attaching bolts in the drawing (56161-S) appear to be long, compared to the bolts I pulled.

(I just put the nuts on the bolts to hold the power steering bracket to the A/C bracket). As you can tell, the bolts don't appear to be as long as what's shown in the diagram and don't seem long enough for those spacers in the diagram. --I'm not sure what to make of all this (??).



These are the power steering components, from the 300, to go on my '69 F-100 Rangers 240. (the pump shown is just a core. I have a new power steering pump, in a box, on the workbench).

 

When I did my power steering conversion, I used a 78 gear box, and a Saginaw "Canned Ham" style pump, with the brackets, that came from the Econolines, as Ford used the Saginaw pump on them... Lots of yack yack on the net about those pinche Ford pumps and leaking... so not having any experience with the pumps, I went with the opinions on the Saginaw... ND helped me out plenty, and located the 3 brackets at 3 different dealers.. So far, it is working, and I love it... I posted all the photos on a power steering swap forum...

Looks like you are doing a very clean, tidy, and stock upgrade... good for you...

Baja

 

I'm aware of the older Saginaw power steering pump. It's just a personal preference but, I like the Ford C-2 pumps.

IF my truck had come with power steering, it would have been the older Thompson 'pencil neck' pump. I'm not a fan of them. They tend to whine and are overly boosted. High boost is great if you're essentially sitting still while parallel parking but, isn't good at highway speed --especially if it's on a curvy road. It makes the steering too twitchy.

The C-2 pump didn't come out until 1978.

I've had an '89 Mustang GT, two '90 Mustang GTs and a '98 Explorer that had the C-2. I got great service from all of them and I like the way they look.

There's also a more modern version of the Saginaw power steering pump. Modification to the C-2 bracket may or may not be required to mount the newer Saginaw pump.

The Ford Ranger Saginaw Power Steering Pump Swap

I'm very particular about the detail of a vehicle I'm working on. I'm sure I could be a lot further along in swapping the parts on my truck if I just slapped the new, clean parts onto the old, dirty parts but, my nature just won't let me do that.

I want the parts to not only function well but, they should look good too. I have a bead blast cabinet so, no point in not using it to make old parts look new again.

 

N802546S.
GREEN SALES in Oh. has 6......800-543-4959.
I am assuming they are supposed to be there. PO of the brackets must have done some work there and left them off. I think with them there will be less stress on the brackets and their alignment. I would suggest test fitting the stuff with your washers. If it seems better with them then order the spacers from Green Sales.

 

Thanks for looking it up, Jeff.

The (2) flared head bolts appear to be original but, looks like they are shorter than what's in the diagram (?). I don't think with the spacers they would be long enough.

 

Oh I know Buddy. I had caught that. I admit it looked factory correct. I just suggest trying it with washers and longer bolts. Angle of the Dangle type o' thing on the brackets. Now-a-days our Ford pics are "typical". But back then (early 80's and older) Ford's pics were pretty much exact. I'm just worried not having those spacers in there might cause some pre-tension on the brackets and bolts. With engine vibration this could cause some broken off bolts. Call me over cautious but I'd rather not use an "easy-out" tool.

 

The (2) factory bolts that attaches the pump and A/C brackets to the side of the block are pretty substantial in diameter --7/16"-14 NC grade 5.

The stacked washers would take the place of the A/C bracket's thickness (since I won't be using the A/C bracket at this time).

The thread engagement of any bolt should be, at minimum, 1-1/2 times the diameter of the bolt. With a combination of the stacked washers and the addition of the two spacers, the thread engagement of the (2) existing bolts would be way less than the 1-1/2 minimum, without going to longer bolts.

Since the (2) bolts match the rest of the fasteners associated to this power steering pump setup, I think they are correct and original and the assembly, as I found it, was the way it was assembled from the factory --sans the spacers.

Something I thought was odd, on the diagram, was it listed the setup for '80-'89. In 1987, the nomenclature of the 300 engine changed to the 4.9L since this is when the 300 went from carburetion to fuel injection.

At the same time, the front dress accessories of the 4.9L engines was also changed from V-belt to serpentine drive. Without actually going to look at a 4.9L engine, I can't say for sure but, I don't think the bracketry is the same between a 300 and a 4.9L.

I'll eventually get this all sorted out and decide what I'm going to do.

In reference to broken bolts. I use this stuff quite often.



It greatly reduces your chances of breaking a bolt off, years later, when you go to take a bolt loose. Vibration breakage is another matter but, in that case too, if it does happen, Anti-Seize makes the broken fastener easier to remove.