Ok. Thanks.

 

2nd that, I've seen plenty of belt runs from the factory that didn't have that tolerance in the alignment.

You should see the angles the drive belt from the engine to the deck on my mower gets to, especially as you drop the deck down low, it's scary but even as I flog it around over rough ground it has never thrown the belt.

I think the critical area is belt tension, if the belt gets that harmonic whip going then that is what pops the belt up out of the groove and allows it to throw off.

 

If his backside tensioner idea works harmonics should never be an issue.

Gary is obsessive about fitment, but it shouldn't be a concern here.

 

Yup. The problem is that I don't know what'll work and what won't so I try to make things "right". But, you'se guys are teaching me lots about what'll work and I appreciate it.

 

Brad, you are completely correct on mower deck belts, the primary drive belt on my Ford is a relatively short 5/8" wide belt, at minimum height you would swear it will jump off any second, never happens, but boy it squawks when you throw the PTO switch on like that, once the 3 blades come up to speed it's quiet again.

 

Got a good start on the mounting for the Saginaw pump. I made one 1/8" and two 3/8" spacers and attached them to the Windsor power steering pump bracket that goes on the water pump. I wanted to braze them on but when I tried it I found my little MAPP gas torch is just not adequate. I got one on, but just. So then I thought I'd weld the next one all the way around. So, on the last one, the 1/8" guy, I just tacked it on. (Man, I sure make work for myself when I try to get fancy.)

Here are pics of the back, and then the front, bracket to document how I did it.








Then I milled a nut down to .150" thick, which was the space available between the back of the M/400's AC compressor bracket and the head. And then I tack-welded it to the back of the bracket with its threads aligned with those I'd tapped into the bracket. That makes the threads 3/8" deep and should be plenty for the Saginaw pump's pivot bolt.

However, the compressor's bracket is cast, so I was concerned about it cracking from the heat of the weld. I put a bolt with a jam-nut through the hole and ran the thin nut down on it to ensure it was properly aligned. I put the combo in the powder coating oven and heated it to 425 degrees, and when it had been up to temp for several minutes I pulled it out, clamped the bottom in the vise, and hit the nut and the area to weld with the MAPP gas torch and got it as hot as I could. Two quick tacks and then I hit it with the torch again. From there it went back to the oven at 425 for a few minutes and then I turned the oven off and let it coast down to room temp over a couple of hours.

Here's the result. Gotta media-blast it for powder-coating but not for a bit as I need to get lots of things ready first.

 

Here's a view of the backside of the A/C compressor bracket showing the nut I tacked on dead center in the pic:




And here are that bracket and the Saginaw bracket together, and then a closeup of the part # for each, just for documentation purposes:

 

Gary,
You need to know the difference between an engineering number ON the part, and the part number one would use for ordering.

Plug either of those #'s into a parts ordering website and you will not get a result.

 

I thought about that when I was starting to make that post, but forgot it before I got done. Thanks for reminding me.

The part # for the A/C compressor bracket from the catalog is EOTZ 19D624-A, and it says the part was used in:

• 81/82 E100/350 - - 5.8(351M), 6.6L
• 80/82 F100/350 - - 5.8L
• 80/81 F100/350 - - 6.6L
• 80 U150 - - 5.0L
• 80/81 U150 - - 5.8L

 

Another Senior Moment with Gary Lewis
Brought to you by Depend® adult diapers.

 

And, there are surely more to come.

 

Gary,
That's great info for others that may find this thread in the future.
(I know that you know, but many people do not...)


Again, I'd Rep you -for the follow through- if I could.

 

Thanks, Jim. As Hallmark says, it's the thought that counts.

And on that note, Rusty_S is into the Ford passenger cars and has the parts catalogs on several of them. And in what was certainly a major effort he found the part number for the Saginaw bracket: Powering Steering Pump Adjusting Bracket from a 78 A (Mercury) w/o Hydroboost w/ Saginaw Pump, 351M/400 - D9BZ 3A732-A.

Unfortunately I've still not been promiscuous enough with reputation and cannot rep him for that effort.

 

I finished the prep for the brackets today. Please remind me to NEVER powder coat something and then try to blast it off. Man, what a time-consuming process as it just does NOT want to come off. In fact, in this pic you can tell that the A/C compressor bracket still has a bit of powder in the pores. But I've spent hours blasting it and it'll have to be good enough.




So, now it is just about time to powder coat the front dress. But, I'd like to bounce my plans off of y'all one last time. The following pic shows the mock engine with all of the brackets installed. My plan has been to have the pulleys black and all of the brackets PC'd in something that closely approximates the look of aluminum. (I could clear-coat the aluminum pieces, but each has its own texture so I'd like to use a powder to make them all the same.) And, that would include even the steel brackets like the two A/C compressor brackets, one of which is currently black, the alternator brackets, and the water pump/power steering bracket with the X. However, I could PC the steel pieces black and the aluminum with a blasted aluminum powder.

And, next on the list is the bolts. As you can see, some of those in the pic below are already black, which is what I'm thinking of doing if all the brackets are a blasted steel/aluminum look.

I'd like your suggestions, please.

 

So the adapter plate would be black?
And the alternator arm?
And all the bolts.

Don't forget a ground path for the alternator.