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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 06:40 AM
  #1336  
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You could also "gasp" look at some of the GM performance engines, many had dual snorkel inlets. I used a cold air pack setup on my Shelby, I don't remember what it came off of, but this one had no snorkel, just an outer housing and then a ring with foam that sealed against the hood, lined up perfectly with the scoop on the fiberglass hood.

Oldsmobile W30 package 442s had a beautiful dual snorkel ram air system, the inlets were down low, possibly under the front bumper. You could probably fab up something to connect through the radiator support.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 07:02 AM
  #1337  
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Originally Posted by DeereFord300
I believe the Mustang 302 HO model came stock with 2 snorkels and matching cold air intake for a couple yrs
True. But I didn't have much luck finding one of those so made my own. And, one advantage to making your own is that you get to decide which snorkels to use, and that determines the drop the tips will have as well as the angle the snorkel makes with the housing. In my case both of those were critical in order to clear things like the A/C compressor that seemed firmly planted.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 08:12 AM
  #1338  
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polished-Dual-Snorkel-Air-Cleaner-83-84-85-86-Ford-Mustang-Mercury-Capri-5-0-HO-/141794306232?hash=item21039968b8&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #1339  
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Pretty! But, ouch! That's pricey. And, from Fonzies description of that air cleaner the snorkels are not symmetrical. Apparently Ford had the same problem I have of needing to miss various components, so had to change the angles to make it work.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 08:55 AM
  #1340  
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Yeah, $300 and it is for parts only, I want whatever he's on!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 11:12 AM
  #1341  
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I missed the "For parts or not working". Good catch. But, will you share if you get whatever he's smoking?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 11:15 AM
  #1342  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I missed the "For parts or not working". Good catch. But, will you share if you get whatever he's smoking?

Gary....? What about the Wednesday mechanics?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 11:19 AM
  #1343  
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I wasn't saying I'd smoke it. Just curious if Bill was the sharing kind.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 11:22 AM
  #1344  
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Oh, that is different!
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 12:12 PM
  #1345  
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Or, were you suggesting that I should share with them if Bill shares with me?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 06:45 PM
  #1346  
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Gary, I realize you have yet to complete your engine, but are you pleased with the machine shop you chose? I need to find a shop in northeast OK to machine mine, and was wanting your opinion. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #1347  
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Yes, I was happy with STK. And, I know of others that like them as well. Further, I know of another shop that didn't do well for someone else.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #1348  
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I started on the engine-build today. First, I ordered a couple of tools which are needed - a ring compressor and a ring expander. Heretofore I've borrowed a compressor or used a universal one, but that's never been much fun, so this one should be better.





And, I've always used my thumbs to expand the rings, but cut thumbs and worries about breaking the rings have been abundant. Hopefully this will solve that. And, just in case you check, this tool says it goes up to 4". But the manufacturer told me today it'll do the 4.030" that I need with no problems.



Then I started looking at paint and powder for powder coating. From my research the 81's were the last vehicles to use the dark blue paint, known as Ford Dark Blue but not Old Ford Blue or Ford Blue as that's the lighter blue. The DupliColor ceramic engine paint to match Ford Dark Blue is DE1606, so that's what I'm going with. However, I'm not sure Eastwood's Ford Dark Blue powder is a match, so will have to check that out. If it isn't I think I'll paint the valve covers with the same engine paint, sand it off as discussed on top, and then coat all of that with clear powder. Since the clear is cured at a max of 400 degrees the heat shouldn't hurt the paint, which is good to 500 degrees.

Given that, I worked on the color scheme for the engine and settled on this:
  • Old Ford Blue: Block, pan, valve cover sides and lettering
  • Aluminum: Heads, intake manifold, air cleaner top, A/C compressor, water pump, & thermostat housing, alternator, distributor, and power steering pump bracket
  • Black: Brackets, air cleaner base & snorkels, and pulleys
Last, I cleaned the block. I'd already cleaned all the threaded holes with a tap, and had used the ball hones to smooth the oil passage corners. So this time I pulled the two oil gallery plugs on each end of the block and ran a brush through the galleries, end-to-end. And, I used a brass wire brush to scrub the outside of the block. Coupled with 4 cans of brake cleaner I got lots of gunk out of the block and all traces of oil off the outside. Then I blew it out/off with compressed air so that there's no gunk anywhere to spoil the build. A wipe-down of the bores with Boeshield ensures they won't rust. And a tight trash bag over it means it'll be ready for masking and then a couple of coats of the primer and then the OFB when I get back to it in a couple of days.





 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 07:44 PM
  #1349  
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The production period of 81 was the cut off. My 82 Jr has a dark blue Windsor. Jr has a manufacture date in 81 is the only reason I can explain it.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #1350  
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Good clarification - production date rather than model. The two 82's I had both had blue engines, come to think of it. Don't remember when Brownie was built, but the Explorer was built in May of '82. But, it had a reman'd engine when I got it, so it doesn't count.
 
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