Dad's Engine
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
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I hadn't thought to look at the MSDS. Thanks.
As for the Fleetguard, I was marginally interested unti I read:
As for the Fleetguard, I was marginally interested unti I read:
To gain maximum benefit from PGPlusTM it should be used in conjunction with ES Slow Release Filters or with ES ExtenderTM and only requires re-inhibition each 250,000 klms. (150,000 miles) or 4,000 operation hours or 1 year, which ever arrives first.
I don't think I want anything to run around uninhibited in my engine! Dads truck certainly isn't an interstate semi running hard all day every day.
It's fully formulated from the get go, yes you could top it up after a year or 2 but in normal car use it would be just fine.
All extended life coolants require testing and top up (if required) every 12 months despite what their sales pitch says, I had a nice battle with Caterpillar a few years back and proved they were telling porkies with a 6 year "extended life" coolant they were trying to force us into using.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Still more reasons why I don't want a "life-time" coolant.
That reminds me of a stereo demo record I had, or maybe still have. A guy walks up to a customer service window and says "This whatsit, which was guaranteed for my lifetime, just quit." Then you hear something slid across a wooden table top, a click, and a boom - followed by a body striking the floor.
That reminds me of a stereo demo record I had, or maybe still have. A guy walks up to a customer service window and says "This whatsit, which was guaranteed for my lifetime, just quit." Then you hear something slid across a wooden table top, a click, and a boom - followed by a body striking the floor.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Bill - I missed your post last night. Good looking engine but where's the other half?
Anyway, thanks for the input. As I reported I have gone directly to ARP's website and gotten the part numbers. That makes it a lot easier than wading through all the non-400 stuff as well as the silly stuff like pan and intake bolts.
But I have no way to measure stretch so will be using torque. Fortunately ARP gives the torque values, which are more than factory specs and that means it is mandatory to have things resized.
Anyway, thanks for the input. As I reported I have gone directly to ARP's website and gotten the part numbers. That makes it a lot easier than wading through all the non-400 stuff as well as the silly stuff like pan and intake bolts.
But I have no way to measure stretch so will be using torque. Fortunately ARP gives the torque values, which are more than factory specs and that means it is mandatory to have things resized.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
You don't have a good set of .0001 inch micrometers? I am really surprised with all the other stuff you have. I have from 1 to 4 inch .0001 division micrometers. I used to be able to get them calibrated annually for free.
That engine doesn't need another half, ask some of the Mustang GT owners that got a real good look at the T2K-CAR license plate. 14 psi boost = 200 HP out of 135 ci.
That engine doesn't need another half, ask some of the Mustang GT owners that got a real good look at the T2K-CAR license plate. 14 psi boost = 200 HP out of 135 ci.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
I didn't do it on the mains, you would need an ultrasonic bolt length measuring system, we had one in the lab, that when we got rid of it I would have loved to have snagged it. It was a Raymond Bolt Master, a bit quirky as it was one of the first built. You can do main and head bolts, many engines any more do, it is called "angle of rotation" you do a "set" torque to take up the slack, compress gaskets etc. then you turn the bolt a specified number of degrees, 90° is common. This stretches the bolt by 1/4 of the thread pitch.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Got the dizzy in today and it was pretty much as shown on Amazon's web site with a points-style cap and rotor with no adaptor. But, in spite of the web site saying "New Distributor, w/DUAL VACUUM" it came with a advance-only vacuum unit. Given that, I posted this review on Amazon - the only review for this item:
Also, since it came in with the single-port vacuum unit I was afraid I'd ordered the wrong one and went to the page on Amazon - and my heart sank as it is listed for $59.80.
Wait! Did I order the wrong one? Fortunately my order status shows I was charged the $19.38 I saw the other night. But apparently they've tripled the price - for the wrong unit. 
When I ordered this distributor it was said by Amazon's product selector to be correct for a 1981 F250 w/a 400 or 6.6L engine. However, the picture shows a distributor with the pre-DuraSpark, or points-style, cap and that truck requires the larger cap, rotor, and adaptor. In fact, Ford went to the large adapter, cap, and rotor in 1973. I hoped the picture was wrong so bought it anyway. Unfortunately it came with exactly what is pictured. So I can't use the cap or rotor.
Also, the description said "Notes: New Distributor, w/DUAL VACUUM - w/o GOVERNOR". But the one supplied to me is advance only.
So, let the buyer beware - it will not work as shipped on a Duraspark-equipped vehicle in spite of what the product selector says.
You tell me - is the review accurate? Appropriate?Also, the description said "Notes: New Distributor, w/DUAL VACUUM - w/o GOVERNOR". But the one supplied to me is advance only.
So, let the buyer beware - it will not work as shipped on a Duraspark-equipped vehicle in spite of what the product selector says.
Also, since it came in with the single-port vacuum unit I was afraid I'd ordered the wrong one and went to the page on Amazon - and my heart sank as it is listed for $59.80.
Wait! Did I order the wrong one? Fortunately my order status shows I was charged the $19.38 I saw the other night. But apparently they've tripled the price - for the wrong unit.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Thanks, Matthew.
Pulled the dizzy apart and found it is nicely made and the end play is on the loose edge of spec at .035". But the side play is not bad, although the shaft that goes into the block is a couple thou smaller than the Ford unit, which won't help the overall side play. And, the body of the dizzy as well as the shaft are 5/8" longer than the Ford unit. I don't think that's an issue since the shaft fits the body, but it will mean it will stick up that much more. And it also means I can't swap shafts between bodies, although I hadn't really planned to do that.
And, the advance slots are identical with those of the $40 engine's dizzy - 16 and 21 degrees. Further, the springs appear to be of the same diameter wire and turns as those on that unit. So, other than the wrong cap and rotor, plus the height difference this looks to be a very useable dizzy. Not bad for -$2.20.
Pulled the dizzy apart and found it is nicely made and the end play is on the loose edge of spec at .035". But the side play is not bad, although the shaft that goes into the block is a couple thou smaller than the Ford unit, which won't help the overall side play. And, the body of the dizzy as well as the shaft are 5/8" longer than the Ford unit. I don't think that's an issue since the shaft fits the body, but it will mean it will stick up that much more. And it also means I can't swap shafts between bodies, although I hadn't really planned to do that.
And, the advance slots are identical with those of the $40 engine's dizzy - 16 and 21 degrees. Further, the springs appear to be of the same diameter wire and turns as those on that unit. So, other than the wrong cap and rotor, plus the height difference this looks to be a very useable dizzy. Not bad for -$2.20.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Ahhh! Now I understand. The vacuum advance is probably good, but I will swap it with the one on Rusty as it is a Crane adjustable unit. So yes, a core.
Had I paid the new asking price of $59.80 it would have gone back, even with the kick-backs. But with what I didn't pay I can't complain. Having said that, I did want the potential buyer to know what they might be getting as it isn't what is advertised.
Had I paid the new asking price of $59.80 it would have gone back, even with the kick-backs. But with what I didn't pay I can't complain. Having said that, I did want the potential buyer to know what they might be getting as it isn't what is advertised.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 551
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Still more reasons why I don't want a "life-time" coolant.
That reminds me of a stereo demo record I had, or maybe still have. A guy walks up to a customer service window and says "This whatsit, which was guaranteed for my lifetime, just quit." Then you hear something slid across a wooden table top, a click, and a boom - followed by a body striking the floor.
That reminds me of a stereo demo record I had, or maybe still have. A guy walks up to a customer service window and says "This whatsit, which was guaranteed for my lifetime, just quit." Then you hear something slid across a wooden table top, a click, and a boom - followed by a body striking the floor.
One of my biggest bugbears in the job I just left was the misunderstanding around "lifetime fluids", they are specified for the sealed life of the compartment. Once you open that compartment for maintenance ( either scheduled or unscheduled) you replace the fluid.
I like that record.