I didn't know what Evans Cool was made of.

I'm a fan in general of Redline products and Water Wetter broke the mold as the first of it's kind but I'm not so sure it's the best anymore. I'm doubtful of it's anti-corrosion/lubrication properties, that there isn't something among the new products that works better. This needs more research that I haven't yet done, last time I bought Water Wetter cause it's what I know.

For example in the diesel world there is SCAs, a common coolant additive. It might be a better and cheaper to maintain option then Water Wetter or products like it for older gas engines. It's products are designed to be maintained with filters, test strips, concentrate, etc. From my at this point limited understanding SCAs create a heat transfer and protective film between parts and the coolant but I need to look into it more. Just thought I'd mention it, maybe you can try it first.

 

Looks like the usual marketing and misinformation abounds for Evans waterless coolant, quick search revealed its primary ingredient is Ethylene glycol , yet there are claims it is non-toxic! *And claims you can use it on race tracks where EG is banned!

It's just approx. 70% EG, *approx. 30% Propylene Glycol and about 2% corrosion inhibitor.
Yes it doesn't boil.....at 220 f as there's no water but it's boiling point is 375f

Interestingly it's flash point is 233f and the MSDS directs to not expose the product to temperatures above its flash point ( of course because you create a risk). *Yet Evans say your engine will run hotter than usual but the temp will be more even inside the engine! So in use it will run way above the flashpoint.

In the job I just left, this would not have passed our engineering design change process, and would have failed the risk assessment, especially for the armoured fleet. Having such a high hazardous content it would have failed the haz chem risk assessment as well.

I was specifying most of the new platforms (and retro fitting older fleets) onto the latest Propylene Glycol coolants. Cummins Tec PGXL, also known as (because they own Fleetguard) Fleetguard PG Plus. *It is a high performance fully formulated Extended Life Propylene Glycol Coolant. It is environmentally safe, biodegradable and non - toxic, even in concentrate form. *Even though the data sheets concentrate on Diesel engines it is suitable for gasoline engines as well.

http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...s/FM040601.pdf

 

I hadn't thought to look at the MSDS. Thanks.

As for the Fleetguard, I was marginally interested unti I read:I don't think I want anything to run around uninhibited in my engine!

 

Gary, the rest of Dad's Engine looks really clean inside.

Evans sells a number of different products...
Coolants » Engine Cooling Systems

I'm sure their claim that NPG can be run at tracks that prohibit ETHYLENE Glycol is correct.
But -IME- tracks prohibit -glycol- based coolants, and propylene glycol would be banned too.

I'm going to stick with 50/50 and change it every couple of years.

 

That's what I'm thinking. If it is that clean after that time and miles the. Why not go again? Not even sure I see the need for a coolant filter as there will be nothing in it. But I do think I'll run Water Wetter.

Off to see Dad between the storms today. Later.

 

Take care and have a safe trip!

 

Well, I did have a safe trip up to see Dad, but he wasn't having a good day. He wasn't feeling well but couldn't tell me what was wrong. And, he didn't know me and didn't recognize my name. Couldn't connect with any of the old stories but, worse yet, didn't try to fake it like he usually does. (There's no emoticon to express my feelings, save for and that's just barely too strong - at the moment.)

Then when I got home I found that FedUp hadn't been here with the dizzy. And, when I tracked the package it is still exactly as the screenshot showed on Saturday - in transit. So I called Amazon and they not only apologized but extended my Prime membership a month and gave me a $15 discount. Let's see, Prime is $79/year IIRC, which is $6.58/mo. So, they effectively paid me $2.20 to take the dizzy?

But, I did talk through with the customer service rep how to handle feedback on the dizzy since it will either be the right one for my truck with the wrong picture, or will match the picture and therefore be the wrong one - in spite of what their product finder said. So I'm primed () to give the feedback, although that reminds me of what Dad used to say about "looking a gift horse in the mouth." But, that won't happen until it comes - mañana?

 

Be mindful of seller vs fulfillment ratings.

If warehoused and shipped by Amazon, delivery is their problem.
If the item is not as described, that is Richporter's issue.

I was ready to blast the big A for their 'promised' delivery because my package only tracked as 'accepted'.
But, sure enough, Glen knocked on the front window as he left the package by my door.

 

In this case it is difficult to tell the difference between Amazon and Richporter. I assume the product selector is Amazons, and it says this dizzy as well as the $50 one are appropriate for a 1981 F250 w/a 6.6L engine. So if the dizzy is as in the picture then it isn't right for that truck due to the cap et al and the fault is Amazon's. But if it doesn't match the picture and has the right cap, adaptor, and rotor it is Richporter's fault for supplying the wrong picture. Right?

Edit - Glad you got your part.

 

I decided to try Amazon for a Motorcraft WG30 washer pump. we shall see how accurate their information is as far as delivery.

 

I've been hoping to hear from Tim about several things including ARP fasteners and the optional water pumps, but decided to do some research today on the ARP front. So I started looking at Amazon, Jegs, and Summit and learned a lot:

• Amazon: They have two types of head bolts (12-point and standard hex), but no rod bolts nor main bolts or studs
• Jegs:
  • Website: Their web site is very poor. It is hard to navigate and if you tell it you have a 1981 F250 V8 they provide parts for C's, W's, and even Y's that you to weed out - in spite of none of those engines being available in that truck.
  • They have head and rod bolts, but no main bolts although they do have main studs
  • They have a few other ARP things
• Summit:
  • Their web site is much better as they only give info for the M/400
  • They have no head bolts, rod bolts, nor main bolts or studs
  • But, they have plenty of ARP oil pan and intake manifold bolts, as well as crank pulley, harmonic balancer, and even a distributor stud!

So, I'm still looking. But I find it absolutely bizarre that people carry ARP fasteners for such highly-stressed parts like oil pans and intake manifolds but don't carry anything for the valve covers! Can you imagine what would happen if your valve cover bolts were to let go? I've seen what happens when the pan bolts fail - rods and pistons all over the track.

But I did come up with a few serious questions:

1. ARP has both Wave-Lok and conventional nuts for the rod bolts. Why wouldn't I go with Wave-Lok?
2. I've read that main studs are to be avoided and that I should go with bolts. Why?
3. What is the advantage to the 12-point bolts?

 

Gary, first, take the bull by the horns, go directly to ARP's website, quit pissing around with resellers. Once you find the parts, then use those numbers.

12 point vs 6 point, better grip by the sockets when torquing. As for main studs being avoided, possibly because the caps can be a bear to get off (ever work on a British engine?). I used them in my 2.2L turbo-II Chrysler, along with head studs. I assume the Wave-Lok nuts are the "prevailing torque" type. As long as you are going to determine proper tightening by measuring bolt stretch (like I did on the T2 engine) Wave-Lok won't loosen easily.

 

I was going about it incorrectly. The way to do this is to go to ARP's site and find the part # you want and then either Google that or search in Amazon, Jeg's, Summit, etc for that part #. Turns out they have at least some of the stuff, but don't show it if you tell it you have an 81 F250 w/a 400.

(Where have I heard before that the product selector might be broken? )

 

Always, ALWAYS! get parts #'s from the OEM or manufacturer catalog and then search those numbers.

Often things will surface, because they are listed in other applications or aren't cataloged for yours.

Sometimes the same exact part can be found for considerably less.
I remember this was the case not long ago for a 3G alternator that another user had looked up for a Mustang, rather than a Sable.

I doubt that would be the case with ARP, but it doesn't hurt to look by number.

 

You are right. Lesson learned. And, hopefully, remembered.