Dad's Engine
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I think I'll see if I can dig it up. Haven't seen it in years, but I know where it should be. Maybe I can create an MP3. But, it fits quite well with a lifetime fluid being good for the life of the sealed compartment - not the device being lubricated.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I would say you were quite diplomatic in your assessment.
Given that you can purchase a complete HEI for the same $ delivered, I don't know how much a deal the re-priced Richporter distributor really is.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I agree with that Bill.
But for someone who just wants their truck running it's a good deal less expensive than buying everything needed for a DSII swap.
(look at KsCop)
I can get a reman dizzy for under $50, but it has no cap, rotor or adapter.
But for someone who just wants their truck running it's a good deal less expensive than buying everything needed for a DSII swap.
(look at KsCop)
I can get a reman dizzy for under $50, but it has no cap, rotor or adapter.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I sure wouldn't go with the Richporter unit at the higher price. Nor would I go HEI. I'd go down to O'Reilly's and get a reman'd unit, which I did for a W a few years ago. But, now that I have enough parts I'll build my own.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I'm not suggesting you would pay $59 for either one.
Just that the HEI has cap,rotor, module and coil all for $59.
With the one you got, you don't have a cap or rotor that works,
and for the price you could walk into any parts store and get the same for $50.
Just that the HEI has cap,rotor, module and coil all for $59.
With the one you got, you don't have a cap or rotor that works,
and for the price you could walk into any parts store and get the same for $50.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Forgot to say that I have cap, rotor, and adaptor from Rusty that are quite new, and three or more used sets that can go on Rusty. That's why I'm happy to put it all together and make a good, solid dizzy out of the parts.
By the way, I pulled out my degree wheel today and it will fit on the lathe. But the center hole is a bit big so I'll have to make a bushing to reduce it to the dizzy's shaft diameter. And I need to see if I have a resistor with which to drop battery voltage - once I get it started. And, I wonder how hot of a plug to go with?
But, there's no reason to start that until I find out what curve I need to have, and I'm still hoping to get that from Tim. In the interim I'll find my Crane spring kit that came with the adjustable vacuum advance. I've found the instructions on line, and here's a blurb from them:
By the way, I pulled out my degree wheel today and it will fit on the lathe. But the center hole is a bit big so I'll have to make a bushing to reduce it to the dizzy's shaft diameter. And I need to see if I have a resistor with which to drop battery voltage - once I get it started. And, I wonder how hot of a plug to go with?
But, there's no reason to start that until I find out what curve I need to have, and I'm still hoping to get that from Tim. In the interim I'll find my Crane spring kit that came with the adjustable vacuum advance. I've found the instructions on line, and here's a blurb from them:
The Ford centrifugal advance curve utilizes a two stage type of curve.
Your stock centrifugal advance springs consist of one light closed
loop spring and one heavy spring with a closed loop on one end and
a long loop on the other end. This long loop spring is the only spring
you may need to change. There are three springs to choose from
in the kit. The recommended combinations are on the chart below.
There are a couple of factors that can change these figures. They
are: (1) Using a different length (measured in degrees) governor slot.
We recommend using the shortest slot of the two available on your
governor (FIG. 11) for the best economy and street performance. (2)
Bending the spring tang on the lower plate in or out can also change
the centrifugal curve even more.
Your stock centrifugal advance springs consist of one light closed
loop spring and one heavy spring with a closed loop on one end and
a long loop on the other end. This long loop spring is the only spring
you may need to change. There are three springs to choose from
in the kit. The recommended combinations are on the chart below.
There are a couple of factors that can change these figures. They
are: (1) Using a different length (measured in degrees) governor slot.
We recommend using the shortest slot of the two available on your
governor (FIG. 11) for the best economy and street performance. (2)
Bending the spring tang on the lower plate in or out can also change
the centrifugal curve even more.
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Such a gadget was a neat-and-cool Big Deal back then as electronic devices were just beginning to hit the consumer marketplace... the black-box controller was literally almost the size of a shoe box.
Anyway, he included with it a lifetime warranty, I remember it because it was typed using some sort of monospaced font, this was before computers and word processors and such.
It was something like this:
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
That's been my experience with lifetime warranties.
Well, I should be honest and say that isn't the case with Ridgid cordless tools & batteries. Now that Home Depot is handling the warranty I have no complaints. I'm about 5 years into this and I have two good batteries and they repaired the drill for free.
Well, I should be honest and say that isn't the case with Ridgid cordless tools & batteries. Now that Home Depot is handling the warranty I have no complaints. I'm about 5 years into this and I have two good batteries and they repaired the drill for free.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,491
Likes: 26
From: Algona,WA
Speaking of Monroe, my truck has sensa-trak shocks all the way around. I had the receipt for them. They were installed at Sears on 7-22-1996 at 122,000 miles. They still work great. Gas shocks for ya.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
And speaking about warranties, I replaced the alternator on my wife's Mazda 6 with a NAPA rebuilt one about a month ago. We started hearing a bearing noise again last week. So I took the car by NAPA and had the guy listen to it. He said it could be the tensioner or idler pulley. So I replace both of them... still making the same noise. I am now going to take it back off and return it for a replacement. Hopefully I will get a good one this time.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,491
Likes: 26
From: Algona,WA
I really like them. They don't ride too harsh yet you can put a lot of weight in the back and the truck doesn't sag a whole lot. I can put a ton of wood pellet fuel (50 bag, 40 pounds each pallet) right over the axle and I'm not even half way overloaded. For having about 110,000 miles on them I'd say I'd buy those for most anything.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yep, those are what Monroe recommended for Dad's truck - six of them with the quad-shock arrangement up front. Put them on a year ago before the 3500 mile trip to/from Delaware and loved them. Granted our load was bulky rather than heavy, but the truck rode and handled better than I can ever remember it doing.