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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #376  
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My Monroe Gas Magnums (front) and Sears Road Handler LTs (rear) needed replacing after 19 years. The woman at Sears asked if I had the receipt, I told her no, but I had the warranty card. It took them a bit to (a) figure out the correct replacement and (b) get them. They tried to give me Sensa-Traks, or the light duty gas shocks. I told her no way, this is a 1 ton dually, if you want to give me those, I will wait till it is back together and let you install them so you have to replace them. They finally were able to get Gas-Magnums for the rear. Front, parts store I bought them from is gone, owner is dead, no way to get a receipt or any help. Monroe set up and sent me two new Gas-Magnums and return labels for the old ones.

Ya'll keep buying Monroe, it helps pay part of my pension.

Back on our original dissertation, Gary, if when you finish all the distributor manipulations, you end up with a serviceable shaft, I need to make an oil pump primer (it would fit 351C,M and W, 400, and 460) All I need is the shaft, no drive gear, maybe a body that the block section is good, bowl could even be cracked or broken, advance mechanism not needed.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Back on our original dissertation, Gary, if when you finish all the distributor manipulations, you end up with a serviceable shaft, I need to make an oil pump primer (it would fit 351C,M and W, 400, and 460) All I need is the shaft, no drive gear, maybe a body that the block section is good, bowl could even be cracked or broken, advance mechanism not needed.
I think we can work something up. How 'bout a trade for a tensioner?

Was just looking today and I'll have at least two body and shaft combos spare. What would be nice is a hex drive tacked to the shaft as my drill bogged down last time I did this and the chuck didn't really want to hold. So a 3/8" nut tacked to the top - or, maybe better, the end of the shaft center-drilled and taped to take a bolt w/a 3/8" head. Wait, which way does a dizzy rotate?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #378  
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They're all CCW
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:46 PM
  #379  
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That's what I was realizing. Crank goes clock-wise and there's one gear so..... bummer! I have some left-hand thread taps but no bolts. How about a bolt tacked onto the end of the shaft? That gives the chuck a bit of space to clear the shaft.

Better ideas?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #380  
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Just grind three equilateral flats on the shaft?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:55 PM
  #381  
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Might be easy with my "post-mounted grinder" (aka Dremel) on the lathe. The only issue is the small size of the grinding wheel it'll swing, which will make the cut concave. Or, put the shaft in the vise on the mill and make a pass. I guess the angles aren't critical.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:41 PM
  #382  
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Every 120°, should be able to use a 3 jaw chuck as a reference. I plan on grabbing the tensioner Friday when I'm over there.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 05:02 PM
  #383  
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Don't have a 3-jaw on the mill. Need to get a small chuck that can mount to the rotary table. And no way to mill flats on the lathe.

I'm thinking I'll try one by center-drilling and taping it right-hand thread. Then run a bolt w/a nut on it in and tack it in place. Easier than milling flats.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 05:15 PM
  #384  
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One of those coupling nuts for threaded rod would probably give you a better grip in the drill while trying to prime the rockers.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 06:37 PM
  #385  
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Thread the upper portion of the shaft, then screw a coupling nut down and tack it in place, just keep in mind anything bigger than 1/2" AF won't fit a manageable size drill. I have a Craftsman 1/2" drill that I can plug in, and a nice DeWalt 18V cordless one. I need to be able to turn it clockwise while pouring something thin like kerosene or varsol in the cooler supply hose to backflush my pickup screen. I really don't want to drop the pan on the beast.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #386  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
I decided to try Amazon for a Motorcraft WG30 washer pump. we shall see how accurate their information is as far as delivery.
I got an update from Amazon this evening. The expected delivery is still shown as tomorrow by 8 PM, BUT... it now shows instead of UPS that is was delivered to the local post office in SALISBURY MD as UPS Sure Post. For me that is neither "smart" as FedEx calls it nor "sure" as UPS calls it. If it gets on a truck to Exmore (our mail normally comes from Norfolk VA) it may not get to the post office before the carrier goes out on the route, therefore I won't get the notice until Friday at which time I will be in Newport News picking up doors.

I have already sent Amazon an email expressing my dissatisfaction with this practice. I am letting every company I buy from that does this know that I am not getting the service I was charged for.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 08:59 PM
  #387  
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Call Amazon. They were very good to talk to. But, I didn't get any support whatsoever on who they'll use for shipping. Just that they will pass the message on.

On the primer, I like the coupling nut idea. A piece of all-thread threaded into the shaft with a coupling nut down on it. Or turn down the shaft. Tack the nut to the shaft and it'll go nowhere.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #388  
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Update, package was a soft bubble wrap envelope and fit in our large, locking mailbox. When I opened it there it was. Now I have a new Motorcraft washer pump.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #389  
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My bride just mentioned that she's getting cabin fever and, were it not snowing, she'd go somewhere. I said "How about let's go into Tulsa tomorrow? I'll load the engine up in Rusty and we can take it to the machine shop and go out to eat or somewhere." She agreed.

Bill - Glad you got your package. Sometimes it works out.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 06:53 PM
  #390  
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Got the crank fettled today. (Thanks for that word, Brad. ) You'll remember this picture from earlier:



Now it looks like this, and the rest of the crank was cleaned up as well:


Then I loaded the crank, pistons, and rods into the toolbox on Rusty:


And then loaded the block. (Note the different tailgate, which I'll tell about in WHYDTYTT.) Not one to rely on just belts and braces I added a suspender from the rear. (Yes, I know what "braces" are.)


So, we are ready for the trip to the machine shop tomorrow.
 
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