I think I just s**t myself...

 

Well, you have my tired iron beat.

Displacement can be POSITIVE displacement too.
And over 2 1/2 bar counts for a LOT!

 

18:1 compression running that kind of boost, WHAT engine was that?

 

How about the new Nissan direct injection gasoline turbo engine?

1.5l

3 cylinders

20" tall, 8" wide

40kg (88lbs)

380Nm torque

400 Hp!

Nissan Unveils Revolutionary Engine to Complement Electric ZEOD RC Powerplant - Nissan Online Newsroom

 

That technology is a bit new for me. I like me old iron.

 

I figured it would have to be direct injected to have those kinds of numbers. It's amazing that it weighs(and is) so little and puts out that much power. Imagine that thing in a go kart...

 

I like horsepower, and I don't care where it comes from.

Probably not enough flywheel to pull the wings off a mosquito.
Nissan is using it to drive the generator of its electric car at LeMans this year.

 

Looks like this lawnmower has that engine, too.

 

7.3 DI . International calls it a 444E and Ford calls it their Powerstroke. I have never put it on a dyno, but a guy I know with the same set up claims to be over 460HP to the back wheels and making over 750 ftlbs of torque.

 

Oh, diesel. That makes more sense now.

 

That seems like a lot of compression and boost for not that much power and torque. But I don't know that much about diesels so it may be I don't know.

 

That's a lot compared to a stock 7.3.

 

You need to know about the redline.
3,500 rpm (stock) is not exactly turbine like speeds.

But 7.3l x 2.5bar is equal to 18.25l... or 1113.6833 C.I. !

 

Ok, we are zeroing in on a plan for the engine. Spent quite a while on with Tim today - with neither of us sounding healthy. (My guess is he's several days behind me on the mending trail from this flu, judging by his voice.)

He recommends the Trick Flow instead of the Aussie heads. There won't be that much difference in cost when compared with everything else. And, he thinks I'll like them a lot better. Today his guess was that the Aussies would come in at 460 ft-lbs/400 HP, but the Trick Flows will give 500/500 since they breathe that much better. And that's with the same cam and keeping the R's down to 5500.

We also talked about STK's aversion to Keith Black pistons. Tim said that it really isn't a piston problem as much as an engine builder problem. KB was one of the first to come out with the hypereutectic pistons and people weren't setting them up with the proper ring gap. Those pistons expand more than others and the ends of the rings will butt against each other if there's not enough clearance when cold. At that point they'll either pull the wrist pin out or the head off, which is what STK meant by "pull the skirt off". But he's had no problems with the pistons they make from him as he tells people what end gap the rings must have.

Then there's water pumps. He can supply a stock cast iron pump, but he does sell the Edelbrock and Flowkooler aluminum pumps and says they are certainly better. For one thing, they have bigger bearings in them. And, they provide more pressure in the system which keeps boiling down. They blew an expansion plug out of an engine on the dyno once and when they put it back they put some pressure sensors on. Turned out that at 7000 RPM they had almost 50 psi in the engine although the pressure cap was only a 25 psi unit. That extra pressure sure drives up the boiling point and helps the cooling. So he's an advocate of high-flow pumps and I'll probably go with the Flowkooler, although whether it'll be the natural or polished aluminum I don't know.

So I documented our conversation with an email with the remaining few questions, like what cam to go with, prices on water pumps, ARP fasteners, etc. The next step is for me to get Dad's engine apart and the parts cleaned up for a trip to the machine shop. They'll press off the pistons and I'll bring the rods back to work on. And then they'll bore/hone the block and turn the crank and let me know the figures. I'll get everything ordered from Tim and then the machine shop can mock up the engine, measure the corners, and deck the block to zero-deck the pistons. A little line-honing on the mains with the ARP fasteners and resizing the rods with their ARPs installed and I'll have a bunch of parts to put together.

 

You mention the Flowkooler water pump.
Ought to get one of their nice RobertShaw thermostats for your 335 block while you're at it.

25# cap and 50 in the block seems like a LOT of pressure.
Does he have a figure for your intended 5,500 redline?
The heater core is going to have to survive.

What are you going to do to get Dad's Truck to hook up with 500Hp?
That is going to cause a lot of wrap and hop.
Tubs under a tonneau cover and a shortened Strange 9"?