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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 08:40 AM
  #166  
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this is the gear that was jamed. i drilled the rivet to remove gear ,sanded the shaft and grease.


i,m wondering what color the gauge cluster trim should be. the gauge back ground is gold color should i paint the trim gold. the dash and cab interior will be light grey.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 08:41 AM
  #167  
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I have disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled an odometer before. It isn't that hard. I actually took two apart to get enough good number for one nice odometer.

I think you can get new number strips to redo the numbers on your odometer wheels. I didn't look into it since I had two speedometers to make one nice unit.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 08:48 AM
  #168  
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dash is ready for paint,i plug some holes and repaired the cracks that the steering column had done. being the cab supports were shot the steering column had broken the dash.


alot of sanding, i understand the cost off a high end paint job!!! hoping this turns out ok! i don,t want perfection,back of cab and roof top will not be over sanded!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 08:54 AM
  #169  
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thanks 38 coupe ,i was afraid of breaking something by trying to dissasemble it. i will give it a shot!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 10:25 PM
  #170  
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Nice work getting the speedometer gear freed up and on the spot weld to reattach the gear. I noted your experience to work on the same frozen gear on a speedometer I had been waiting to work on. I figured heat might help free the gear so used my soldering gun to heat the shaft center on the inner and outer gears. Then used AeroKroil penetrating oil. I heated the shaft and sprayed the Aerokroil about 10-15 times over a 2 hour period. Eventually the alternating of heat and application of penetrating oil worked to free up the gear shaft. I will continue to keep spraying small amounts of penetrating oil over the next few days hoping it will find its way to lube the entire shaft. The gear turns pretty free now so happy with the results so far.



 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 05:40 AM
  #171  
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thats a good ideal. the problem i had is i pryed too much to try and free the gear. it started to turn i was happy,then noticed the inside one was not turning. i was spraying loose nut and turning until it felt free,all i did was break the rivet free!!! so if someone tries this don,t put to much pressure on the gears! alot easyer with a heat gun i bet! thanks!
edit. its the aluminuim that oxyidizes there was a white powder on the shaft.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 07:52 PM
  #172  
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well i got the odometer gear disassembled,and made 2 attemps at putting it back together. seems like theres some sort of timing,not quit sure how to assemble it. 38 coupe you wouldn,t remember any tips.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by bernette
well i got the odometer gear disassembled,and made 2 attemps at putting it back together. seems like theres some sort of timing,not quit sure how to assemble it. 38 coupe you wouldn,t remember any tips.
Dang it Bernette.... If you get that puzzle back together and it works, you have a much larger brain than me. And maybe better glasses too!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 05:52 AM
  #174  
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hi GB! yeah it took a few attemps before i coax myself to take it apart. the numbers are getting worse from playing with it. there has to be an easy way of timing it. the people who work at putting them together had to have some sort of guide! but the guy who invented this and had no computors, he was very intelligent!!! if you ever see a good set of grille bars let me know! around here everything is rusted. i,m following your woody project you have a mighty find brain.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 01:35 PM
  #175  
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Post the speedo question on FordBarn.com; the forums; Early V8. There are a couple of members who rebuild clusters who might give you some guidance.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 08:33 PM
  #176  
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thanks fire engine mike. do i need a membership! i,m log in there as bernette and go there often to read different treads. i can not see most pictures,i suppose its because i don,t pay a membership.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:01 PM
  #177  
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good news and bad news! parts come in friday so i decided to start working on front spring bushings,the 4 spring bushing fit fine. but the 2 front hanger bushing are to small. so i decide to rebuilt my steering box wrong sector shaft bushing and seals. i started checking my parts and the 2 front wheel bearing oil seals are to small! so i go ahead on the kingpins and they fit so heres a few pictures of my afternoon
wrong parts


hell of a job getting king pins out,had to drill and heat the wedge bolts that hold the kingpin. and one came out with a BFH. the other one didn,t even move with a sledge hammer had to use the press.




used our old rimmer. made in canada.


part numbers i got for kingpin someone had ask for this the kit was NOS.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 09:08 PM
  #178  
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got another question! what are the 2 holes for on the driver side cowl. looks like holes for a radio antenna,there know sign of a radio in this truck. i don,t have a plan for one. just wondering if i should weld them up!
edit. well after looking at the picture! starting from the door theres the 2 holes i,m taking about. then theres 2 holes that were plugged ,but as you can see only one still has a plug. then theres the 2 holes for the hood.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 11:44 PM
  #179  
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I have no idea about your 2 extra holes, but the next 2 (one filled one not) are for rubber hood stops to keep that end of the hood from vibrating on the cowl. Like these:

Ford - Ford Hood Bumper Set - Rubber - 12 Pieces - Ford Pickup Truck - Macs Auto Parts
 
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 06:58 AM
  #180  
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Yes, those two holes next to the door should be filled in. FYI, your advice to hand pack the rear axle wheel bearings was spot on. I got a rear axle service manual and that is the recommended procedure.
 
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