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Like WB said.... It's all about mix and match. A 2" spring is a 2" spring. Stack 'em, whack 'em.... For me it's always about adding a few leaves. I keep long spring center bolts in a drawer. I always buy extras when napa has them. I also save square top u bolts when I come across them. If a one ton has 13 leaves in it's rear springs, then 14 is just that much better. Duh.
i think my one good spring leafs were 5/16 thick,and the other side was 1/4. on my donor frame one side had a broken leaf and was a mismatch of different leafs, the other side was probably untouched but rusted. now i got a mismatch of different thickness,but ended with same thickness and same arch.
i think my one good spring leafs were 5/16 thick,and the other side was 1/4. on my donor frame one side had a broken leaf and was a mismatch of different leafs, the other side was probably untouched but rusted. now i got a mismatch of different thickness,but ended with same thickness and same arch.
And that my friend is just what you want. Doesn't matter how you get there.
off subject! but my brother ask me too ask!!! once i,m done with my ford he will be repair a chevrolet. he has been gathering parts for a few years now. he is looking for rust free front fenders. its a 63 chevrolet c80,it was bernettes town fire truck!
little update done alot of small bits. welded alot of different cracks on the cab . cab supports were done and rockers broken,cab was slowly cracking in half! wire brush the dash with a fancy tool my brother has ,forgot to take a picture of it works pretty good. then made a mixture of all metal and fibre glass resin,and brushed it on my dash to patch the pin holes. started applying bondo on the cab.
I noticed the numbers on the dash, don't think I have seen them there before. Had 2 with some numbers on the firewall behind the air cleaner and one with no numbers. Always interesting to see those odd *****. Nice work finishing up the cracks.
thanks ! i had noticed the number! i don,t no exactly what year cab i have ,truck,s a 42 hood and crab distributor kind of right. i order side door window felts,and i think i should have a metal frame on my windows but i don,t! the tag with serial number was added i think,i will try and take a few pictures of the screw holes. done a bit of work 2 evening and this afternoon,got the helper side door almost ready for bondo. when i done driver side i never thought about sealing the 2 halves of the door bottoms. i think i did better on this one!
driver side i done last winter rust is weeping out!
i put some seam sealer before bending over the lip!
I painted the inside of my doors with DOM16 it's a product from the same manufacture as the seam sealer you used. It's the same thing as POR15 but half the price..
thanks john,i had speaded roofing sealent on the outer skin where my weld was ,on the driver side. there was already a sort of roofing sealent on the outer door skin. probably as a sound deadener ! i usely use a old glove and spread it by hand.
Here are the photos of the clearance light bar. This one screws down to the cab roof with the tabs on the ends. The back will pull off to access the wiring.
Mark
thanks mark! while were at it i suppose the wire came throught the cab! if anybody would have a nice rust free bar they would like to part with,feel free to pm me! thanks again mark really appreciated. i will go look at it again .
I'm sure I pulled that clearance light bar off of a '46-'47 1 1/2-2 ton truck. I will look tomorrow, I may still have the cab. If so, I will note where it was mounted.
Mark
if you look close up there is 2 holes on driver side and 1 on helper side. there was 3 screws in them holes, i think i will plug them to make sure ! don,t know what was there exactly i will go back and check bernettes picture with a load of hay!
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