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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 11:05 AM
  #616  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I looked at the Giotto data (CSV file) with AE version 10 on a Win 7 computer, and everything looks good. Something's going on with your version or with Windows. Without getting my grubby mitts on your keyboard and rootin' around in the Computer Management - I'm at a loss.

About all I can suggest from afar is to move your mouse to the lower-left corner (Win 8.1), right-click, select Computer Management, and open Device Manager. Look for something with an exclamation point.

Once you're in the Computer Manager, I would dissuade you from going on safari in there... there be demons lurking about.
Not being an expert in anything so take this with a grain of salt.....
I haven't kept up reading everything here but the last part about 8.1. I thought AE didn't work with it? Or at least when I bought it last summer that's what they told me. I bought a computer that had 8.1 and had to get it changed to 7. Is that the issue or should I go back and read more? A lot of this is like greek to me anyway.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 11:11 AM
  #617  
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I use AE with 8.1 It can be a little frustrating getting it AE to talk to the truck. I just have to keep closing it out and trying again until it connects. Then occasionally it will just loose connection. It takes some patients but i get the data I'm looking for.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 11:39 AM
  #618  
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I have windows 8whatever on my new puter, I installed AE on it and have been using it ok.

The only issue I found is I have to plug the cable into the puter first and wait for it to figure out what it is (about a minute) and then I can plug the other end into the truck and make stuff work.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 01:16 PM
  #619  
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My Version 13 runs fine on 8.1 also, I did note that you HAVE to hook the dongle to your laptop, THEN to the data Port, Then start the software... It has to discover everything in a certain order, then it activates Enhanced Ford, and lets u work. anything out of order and it freezes. It also looks like it Times out after being idle for awhile...But that's not confirmed. I'm still unlocking the mysteries.........
 
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #620  
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I have version 12.0.0 I follow the instructions in the user guide. Hook up the DLC to the computer first, then to the OBDII after the red and amber lights come on. Sometimes it just doesn't like to connect. Then sometimes it will drop the connection and if I try to reconnect it gives me a message about my product not being activated or somthing like that. I'll have to close it and reopen it and then it works.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 06:10 AM
  #621  
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The software won't time out, but the computer can certainly go into some form of powerdown when idle for a long time - particularly in battery mode. The computer might shut down the USB ports after a certain time on battery, disable BT or WiFi, it certainly blanks the screen if it's set to do so.

If you want to see the details of what gets shut down while idle, and when it does it:

Open Control Panel
Click Power Options
Click Change Plan Settings
Click Change Advanced Power Settings

You will then see a monster list of things you can control, and you might find your mysteries.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 07:33 AM
  #622  
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good to know. I disabled the USB timing out, we'll see if that fixes the losing connection problem. Any advice on why it takes several tries to get it to connect in the first place? I'm pretty sure I read earlier in this thread some where that newer versions of AE are a little buggy(resulting from additional security features?). I just figured that was my problem.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 09:36 AM
  #623  
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Greg, when you plug the dongle into the computer first wait about a minute for the computer to see the dongle and figure out what it is and what to do with it, then plug into the truck, turn key on, and connect.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #624  
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What DOESN'T take longer to start up in Win8? Another reason I wanted a real activation Key with my software... But it is not to be... I find that most SW improvements are a "One step forward,3 steps back." approach. Anytime you try to design, or improve something to work in Bill Gates alternate reality, You gotta give something up....But my Rant digresses.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 04:46 PM
  #625  
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subscribing to this thread, very useful information thanks
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 08:22 PM
  #626  
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So I know I am really, really late with my homework but here it is:


Android Device Baro=13.4
PCM Baro.................13.5
MAP........................13.1
EBP.........................16.9



KOEO


I used to get a EBP sensor code (P0470) but after cleaning the tube and sensor the code quit returning, and the EBP number went down but I can't exactly remember how high it use to be, it was a few years ago. Will a shiny new EBP sensor benefit me at this point?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 12:07 AM
  #627  
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Teacher check me on this but I think if your EBP number was more than .5 off, the sensor was going bad. Mine is reading 2.5 out from MAP. But MAN!, everything improved when I cleaned my tube and sensor. MPG and response went up at least 30%. So I'm saving my pennies for a new sensor.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 05:38 AM
  #628  
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My EBP sensor was about that bad, and I was getting some funky symptoms from Stinky - including a sooty stain on the right-rear fender like a diaper smudge. I replaced it with a new one (the EBP sensor, not the fender), and Stinky's attitude returned to normal.

The MAP/BARO/EBP acceptable range is influenced by the Buck$Zooka armory echo. The more echo in the room (less full) the more discrepancy you can forgive. I think the book says something **** like 0.2 PSI difference limit, but I say 0.5 hasn't really made any obvious symptoms. 0.7 is pushing it, and 1.0 is crossing the line for sure. 3 1/2 PSI difference? You're gunna feel that one in the butt. That will be by way of performance, or by way of more padding from your wallet (because the fuel tank isn't thinning it), or both.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 08:06 PM
  #629  
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Very Interesting

After fully warming up my truck by driving to the emissions testing station, with Torque Pro hooked up, I noticed that the EBP dropped from the cold reading of 16.9 all the way down to 14.1. I only noticed it because they make you shut the engine off 2 or 3 times. I also noticed it held around 14.1 while idling. I am still roughly .5 to 1 PSI higher than Map & Baro and will still install my new sensor which arrived yesterday from Clay, but wanted to point out how important it is to test things fully warmed up. Just like the old vacuum tubes.

I remember way back when I first cleaned my sensor & tube, the reading dropped some but not a lot. Then I removed the sensor again and really went to town on it using brake cleaner and digging into it with a small screwdriver, figuring if I damaged it so what? After re-installing it the reading had dropped a bunch more, so I may have been able to keep after it and eventually get it to spec.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 09:16 PM
  #630  
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There's a thin copper membrane inside that thing that separates the world from the sensor chip so if it were me (and it was) I wouldn't poke in there with anything. The brake cleaner will dissolve the goop quick. But mine was still bad after everything was shiny clean, better, but still bad. So I replaced
 
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