Negative, its only maybe 3 years old tops. Hp laptop with windows 7.

 

I've had a loose USB connection cause hiccups, so this is the first suspect. Are you using a power inverter to run the laptop? A grounded power plug can cause issues.

 

No, I haven't done any extended data logging. My laptop battery usually lasts long enough. I'm thinking it may be my obd2 but id find that weird. My scangauge is really picky with how I position the connector for it to work. But I just figured it was the cord

 

Can any of you guys with AE see the VSM key fob lock and unlock PIDS? Trying to diagnose why my remote doesnt work. Following the testing procedure in my ford workshop manual and that is the next step but I cant find it on my Infinity. Thanks

 

Subscribing so I can find this when I need it.
Thanks Rich!

 

I never use my FOB and I've never tried this (I have a GEM), but the book says it's in there. When you make a vehicle connection, the bottom of the list shows "Enhanced Powertrain". Change that to VSM or Vehicle Security Module... or whatever it says is there. Once in, it's a matter of fishing around to see what can be done.

 

Thanks Rich.

 

OK, I've been tooling around a little with my shiny new AE and here is what I have so far. BTW things sink in (stink in) to my head a little slower with high tech stuff so I'm crawling along.
This is what I have questions on so far.
Exhaust Back Pressure at idle is 41.32 or so. This seems to be higher than normal. What does this mean?
Fuel Pressure is 480 or so and I think this is lower than normal.
FIPW (learning some of the acronyms here) .18-.20
Injector Control Pressure 750
ICP Duty Cycle 17.58
Torque Converter Slip 515-525
Turbo Input Speed 205 or so.
P0238 Turbo Boost Sensor ACT High
P0470
How do I open a saved file when not connected?

Thanks,
Mark

 

P0470 is a backpressure DTC. The DTC and the high EBP reading means your sensor is plugged up. This will effect shifts and fuel economy, but nobody really knows why it effects fuel economy. P0238 could be a reaction to comparing with EBP... but it could also mean a bad MAP.

There is no fuel pressure sensor on the truck. The data looks like you looked at Injector Control Pressure both times. 480 is normal for a warm engine and 750 is normal for cold.

ICP DC is really the Injector Pressure Regulator (IPR) control signal. Stock warm is near 10% and WOT hair-on-fire should max out at about 40%. Full-off means no ICP, and full-on can give you about 4000 PSI (not ideal). The IPR "pulses" off and on to build ICP, and the higher the percent it is on, the higher the ICP.

That is definitely a bogus number. The next time you are in there, open up your PID settings for Fuel Injector Pulse Width, and set the "Scale Value" to 10. Be sure to save the session when you are done, so you can bring back all the same PIDs and their settings next time.

Yup... and higher. The only time this means anything is when you are rolling down the highway, with your torque converter locked. If you are in TCLU and you see slip much above 10 or so, you may have issues.

BTW, that's not "Turbo Input Speed, it's Turbine. That's the input to the transmission... there is no sensor on the turbo for speed.

Saved session? Saved log? All of this stuff is covered in the early sections of the thread, complete with screenshots. It doesn't take a lot of searching to find the good stuff... like there are some very basic tests that should be done before you even start the truck. MAP/EBP/BARO at KOEO, KOEO test, and Buzz test are examples.

 

Those tests before starting were completed with no issues except for EBP, which reads same off and running, plugged sensor sounds sensible as you stated and it did have me puzzled. Where will I find this sensor and is it user serviceable?

Thanks,
Mark

 

Holy Crap. 34 pages to read. This may take a while.

 

FIPW is now 2 or so with scale value at 10.
Yea, 34 pages to read and try to remember.

 

And there are pop quizzes embedded in random pages in between, so don't skip any.

 

The sensor is on the front of the engine, mounted to a plate that bolts to the front of the HPOP reservoir, right by the heater hose. Get a wrench on the hex on the underside of the mounting bracket before you try to remove the sensor or you'll twist the tube and bracket. Some people have had some luck cleaning out the sensor with carb cleaner, but you're probably better off replacing it if the reading is high with it removed from the mount.

Check the entire tube running from the sensor mount to the manifold for cracks/rust through. If it's in good shape, you can take a length of weed eater line in the chuck of a drill and run it down the tube to clean it.

 

I set my profile to display 40 threads per page, so this is only 12 pages on my system.

No need to bother with the whole thread, just look at the ones with screenshots... most of the answers are there.