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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1986 F-250 Progress Thread

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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 02:14 PM
  #586  
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Yep $50 a piece with no pads, or brake hoses LOL. I swear each one weighs like 20 pounds. I serviced mine a bit and cleaned them up.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 02:43 PM
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Mine are pretty bulky as well and use a bent bit of springy metal to hold them in. There is a slider under that that has a bolt keeping it from moving. I need new calipers and those holder things. On the passenger side a bolt broke off in the mounting bracket so I need to drill that out then I can use 2 bolts again.

Sorta hard to explain and I don't think I got pictures of it...
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 02:46 PM
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There's a video of some guys doing a brake job on another 86 F250, brakes are identical to mine. You can see how big they are lol.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 02:58 PM
  #589  
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Ah that's right, you've got dual piston calipers... Doh! Those are most definitely heavier and more expensive. After watching them fight with those lugnuts, it got me thinking about using Anti-sieze on lugnuts. I had heard to use it and I was told not too an that it was for semi's and other big trucks. I looked into it and noone really has had any negative effects of the stuff so I'm planning to start using it. Even just a small amount will go a long way.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 04:48 PM
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We've used anti seize on all of our vehicles lug nuts for YEARS and never had a problem. Just enough to coat the threads is all you need lol.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 04:56 PM
  #591  
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If you are running aluminum wheels you really need anti-seize on the mating surface between the steel nut and aluminum wheel. Otherwise you will get galling and metal transfer from the wheel to the nut, which destroys the mating surface.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #592  
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And don't forget to put the tapered side of the nut in the hole. I know someone who didn't do that on all of the lug nuts on a mini van before lol.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:07 PM
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He just got the ones for the left side of the truck on the right side and vice versa.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #594  
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Haha. I'm surprised how much smoother this truck rides now, rides like a half ton pickup now. Before it was : works like a truck, rides like a lumber wagon.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #595  
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I no longer have aluminum rims, mine are steelies now. I've also made sure the tapered end is towards the rim, however, I haven't always torqued mine. Hence the "Tire Falling off on the freeway" incident... That kinda sucked.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 08:13 PM
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We just use a 1/2 drive ratchet that's not terribly long and get them on as tight as we can with that, again. Never a problem lol.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 11:17 PM
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See my issue was and still is, if I go "as tight as I can" with anything I will break it. As long as I can put my weight on it, I'll break the stud right off. Which is what happen to cause me to do my whole brake section. New disks and pads with new wheel bearings. I had 2 broken studs because I used my crossbar lug wrench to tighten them and snapped it off. Then I started using the impact gun without the compressor on so I don't know how many pounds that applied. Now I buzz them on with the gun and torque them.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Wow, how tight can you really get those? I sit in front of the lug nuts, both knee's on the ground and just use my body weight to get them tight. I think it's an 8" ratchet wrench.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 11:43 PM
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I'm usually standing putting most of my weight on them. Mine at stock were like, 90 ft/lbs. I do them to 100 now. I've only got 1 side left to do new studs in and that's a back axle.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 11:55 PM
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I just put as much weight as I can on them while kneeling down in front. Never an issue lol. I think my lugs are supposed to be torqued to 150 ft lbs anyways.
 
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