Rockwell Build Thread
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,949
Likes: 1
From: utica il
it seems simple enough if you get a good clean straight cut, but i don't have a welder and would probably still manage to have more leaky holes than the titanic if i did have a welder and did them myself. i'm sure you could put some form of epoxy or something over the weld area to ensure a proper seal to avoid pinholes just to be sure though.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,949
Likes: 1
From: utica il
no, i meant epoxy dave, and it looks like he cut into the "air containing area" to me.
*shell, not everyone is running tubes. if i were to put that kind of time into recentering it would probably include beadlocks, so the welding would involve sealing the "shell", otherwise i would just buy some off the shelfs.
*shell, not everyone is running tubes. if i were to put that kind of time into recentering it would probably include beadlocks, so the welding would involve sealing the "shell", otherwise i would just buy some off the shelfs.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Fl
Im in the middle of doing my wheels as well. The hardest part is dismounting the tires and cutting the old centers out.
Majority of these trucks run tubes. Especially since alot of the v treads come off tractors and have dryrot.
One more nice thing about doing your own centers is you can put the offset however you want. Making up for the differnce in width from front axle to rear
Majority of these trucks run tubes. Especially since alot of the v treads come off tractors and have dryrot.
One more nice thing about doing your own centers is you can put the offset however you want. Making up for the differnce in width from front axle to rear
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
See the big *** slot for the tubes valve stem to stick through? you have to run tubes with these wheels... you put the tube in the tires, along with a "flap" and than slide the whole tire/tube/flap combo onto the wheel and jam the lock ring on....
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, Ga
no, i meant epoxy dave, and it looks like he cut into the "air containing area" to me.
*shell, not everyone is running tubes. if i were to put that kind of time into recentering it would probably include beadlocks, so the welding would involve sealing the "shell", otherwise i would just buy some off the shelfs.
*shell, not everyone is running tubes. if i were to put that kind of time into recentering it would probably include beadlocks, so the welding would involve sealing the "shell", otherwise i would just buy some off the shelfs.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, Ga
Im in the middle of doing my wheels as well. The hardest part is dismounting the tires and cutting the old centers out.
Majority of these trucks run tubes. Especially since alot of the v treads come off tractors and have dryrot.
One more nice thing about doing your own centers is you can put the offset however you want. Making up for the differnce in width from front axle to rear
Majority of these trucks run tubes. Especially since alot of the v treads come off tractors and have dryrot.
One more nice thing about doing your own centers is you can put the offset however you want. Making up for the differnce in width from front axle to rear
My rims had a lip where the center mounted and the rest of the wheel was wider so I could only flip the center in the same position. There wasn't the possibility of any other backspacing.
You're right about demounting the old tires.. About 30 minutes swinging a 30 pound duck bill gets old real fast.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Fl
Cutting the centers out would have been a bitch but I had several rims in two styles. On one, the center was held in by 18 rivets and 3 small tack welds while the other was welded all the way around. I just drilled out the rivets about 1/8" and smacked em with a punch and hammer.
My rims had a lip where the center mounted and the rest of the wheel was wider so I could only flip the center in the same position. There wasn't the possibility of any other backspacing.
You're right about demounting the old tires.. About 30 minutes swinging a 30 pound duck bill gets old real fast.
My rims had a lip where the center mounted and the rest of the wheel was wider so I could only flip the center in the same position. There wasn't the possibility of any other backspacing.
You're right about demounting the old tires.. About 30 minutes swinging a 30 pound duck bill gets old real fast.
Im having mine laser cut for $400 with the design of my choice. I should have them soon.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, Ga
All but wasted the entire day hunting down hydraulic fittings to work with the line I already had only to find out the line is metric garbage so I went to Northern Tool and bought some line there. A local guy wanted $100 to build 2 four foot lines.
When I did get home to work on the truck, I completely finished plumbing the brakes and plumbed most of the hydraulics excluding the high pressure pump to orbital line and low pressure line to the cooler line. All that's left to buy is a barbed boss fitting and a 12" high pressure line. Then check for bindage on the ram and finish welding it.
??? I ended up running the proportioning valve but I blocked off the driver's side port and ran the caliper off the existing passenger's side line. Does anyone know if this will cut the pressure provided in half? Should I have ran both lines and tee'd them both to the single caliper to get proper pressure split???
I'm getting anxious to drive it, so I've gotten to making priority lists each day. Tomorrows includes; finish steering, buy longer v-belt, make the last wheel, make gussets and cross members for the front hangers, make orbital gusset, make rear spring clamps, mount 4 tires on 4 new rims. I think that'll be a full day plus some.
When I did get home to work on the truck, I completely finished plumbing the brakes and plumbed most of the hydraulics excluding the high pressure pump to orbital line and low pressure line to the cooler line. All that's left to buy is a barbed boss fitting and a 12" high pressure line. Then check for bindage on the ram and finish welding it.
??? I ended up running the proportioning valve but I blocked off the driver's side port and ran the caliper off the existing passenger's side line. Does anyone know if this will cut the pressure provided in half? Should I have ran both lines and tee'd them both to the single caliper to get proper pressure split???
I'm getting anxious to drive it, so I've gotten to making priority lists each day. Tomorrows includes; finish steering, buy longer v-belt, make the last wheel, make gussets and cross members for the front hangers, make orbital gusset, make rear spring clamps, mount 4 tires on 4 new rims. I think that'll be a full day plus some.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, Ga
You think the pressure proportions are good as is or I should run both lines into one?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
I dont remember off hand, but how is the proportioning valve on that one? is there really two ports comming off it for the front axle, or was it one line than a "T" on the axle to the front brakes (when u had the other axle under it)?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 933
Likes: 0
From: Lawrenceville, Ga
Two ports for front brakes.