it seems simple enough if you get a good clean straight cut, but i don't have a welder and would probably still manage to have more leaky holes than the titanic if i did have a welder and did them myself. i'm sure you could put some form of epoxy or something over the weld area to ensure a proper seal to avoid pinholes just to be sure though.

 

You mean someting crazy like RTV?!

His wheels have to have tubes in them, and a recenter job shouldn't have to be air tight. Not like its changing the shell itself.

 

no, i meant epoxy dave, and it looks like he cut into the "air containing area" to me.

*shell, not everyone is running tubes. if i were to put that kind of time into recentering it would probably include beadlocks, so the welding would involve sealing the "shell", otherwise i would just buy some off the shelfs.

 

Im in the middle of doing my wheels as well. The hardest part is dismounting the tires and cutting the old centers out.
Majority of these trucks run tubes. Especially since alot of the v treads come off tractors and have dryrot.

One more nice thing about doing your own centers is you can put the offset however you want. Making up for the differnce in width from front axle to rear

 

See the big *** slot for the tubes valve stem to stick through? you have to run tubes with these wheels... you put the tube in the tires, along with a "flap" and than slide the whole tire/tube/flap combo onto the wheel and jam the lock ring on....

 

Off the shelf 20x10 rockwell rims start at $325 a piece. Mine = cost of welding wire and a 6 pack. I just couldn't ever justify giving someone $1300 for wheels to put on a truck I paid $1000 for. Especially when I have wheels that work just fine. Also, there's no point in sealing the shell because of the split ring design.

 

Cutting the centers out would have been a bitch but I had several rims in two styles. On one, the center was held in by 18 rivets and 3 small tack welds while the other was welded all the way around. I just drilled out the rivets about 1/8" and smacked em with a punch and hammer.

My rims had a lip where the center mounted and the rest of the wheel was wider so I could only flip the center in the same position. There wasn't the possibility of any other backspacing.

You're right about demounting the old tires.. About 30 minutes swinging a 30 pound duck bill gets old real fast.

 

Sure does.

Im having mine laser cut for $400 with the design of my choice. I should have them soon.

 

$1660.......

 

Ouch.........

 

All but wasted the entire day hunting down hydraulic fittings to work with the line I already had only to find out the line is metric garbage so I went to Northern Tool and bought some line there. A local guy wanted $100 to build 2 four foot lines.

When I did get home to work on the truck, I completely finished plumbing the brakes and plumbed most of the hydraulics excluding the high pressure pump to orbital line and low pressure line to the cooler line. All that's left to buy is a barbed boss fitting and a 12" high pressure line. Then check for bindage on the ram and finish welding it.

??? I ended up running the proportioning valve but I blocked off the driver's side port and ran the caliper off the existing passenger's side line. Does anyone know if this will cut the pressure provided in half? Should I have ran both lines and tee'd them both to the single caliper to get proper pressure split???

I'm getting anxious to drive it, so I've gotten to making priority lists each day. Tomorrows includes; finish steering, buy longer v-belt, make the last wheel, make gussets and cross members for the front hangers, make orbital gusset, make rear spring clamps, mount 4 tires on 4 new rims. I think that'll be a full day plus some.

 

As for the brakes, I don't see why that wouldn't work.

 

You think the pressure proportions are good as is or I should run both lines into one?

 

I dont remember off hand, but how is the proportioning valve on that one? is there really two ports comming off it for the front axle, or was it one line than a "T" on the axle to the front brakes (when u had the other axle under it)?

 

Two ports for front brakes.